En route from Panama to Peru in 1835, Tomas de Berlanga, a Spanish Bishop, discovered the islands 600 miles off the Ecuadorian Pacific coast when ocean currents becalmed his ship.

Three hundred years later, Charles Darwin, made his epic voyage aboard the Beagle to the Galapagos and developed his theory of evolution that challenged conventional beliefs on natural history.

Going where Darwin went before

Now, 166 years later, a week short of Darwin's landing on September 15th, the writer and 12 others embark on a voyage aboard an Ecoventura yacht, M.V. Eric. We plan to retrace Darwin's footsteps on three of the four islands he visited - San Cristobal, Santiago and Isabela, plus six others on the scheduled tour - Genovesa, Santa Cruz, Rabida, Fernandina, Bartolome and Espanola.

The four-decker 10-room yacht allows guests to explore the islands and travel at a relaxed pace, while offering personalized service with a 10-man-crew. I can still see a smiling Hugo, our bartender and waiter, standing on deck with delicious hors d'oeuvres when we return to the yacht from our island visits and every meal is prepared in tasty Ecuadorian style. Our bilingual (English/Spanish) nature guide organizes shore visits daily, and Raul is very proud to educate us about his homeland treasures.

An introduction to the Galapagos

A mere 3000 square miles in landmass, the archipelago is shaped by volcanic activity into 19 islands, 42 islets and a variety of rock sculptures straddling the Equator. The Spaniards first named the islands but the English pirates came along in the 17th century and re-named the existing islands after wealthy British families. Today they are still called by both names.

Besieged by towering lava cliffs that stare mercilessly down on the sprawling fields of black basalt, the islands are deceptively rich in habitat for some of the most exotic creatures on this planet.

Seeing is believing

Never with such abandon has human presence been tolerated except amongst the wildlife of the Galapagos. Curious and fearless, smug-looking mockingbirds circle us with stiff-legged precision, great frigatebirds cuddle with their babies at arm's length and sea lions hurry over barking their welcome as we come ashore on the islands.

At Cerro Dragon (Dragon Hill) on Santa Cruz, the endemic dragon-like land iguanas are every photographer's delight with their half-smiling faces and saffron-hued skin. In true carefree fashion they ignore our trailblazing footsteps as they search for the spiny pancake pads they enjoy from the Opuntia (prickly-pear cactus).

Conservation and Research

A visit to the Charles Darwin Research Station reveals conservation and research projects.The station maintains a breeding program for tortoise sub-species threatened by feral dogs, rats and pigs on the islands they inhabit. As soon as the youngsters can defend themselves they are returned to their native islands. Repatriated iguanas, once in a similar breeding program at the research station, now live on the north end of Santa Cruz.

Some of the oddities researchers encounter include the bizarre behavior of the ground finch, Geospiza difficilis, nicknamed the vampire finch - using its sharp beak it attacks other birds beneath its feathers to drink the oozing blood.

A record 90 percent of the reptiles, 50 percent of the birds and 32 percent of the plants of this archipelago exist in no other part of the world.

A miracle of a bird

Nowhere else but in the westernmost islands of Fernandina (Narborough) and Isabela (Albemarle) lives the world's only flightless cormorant, Nannopterum harrisi. This bird with its useless, drooping wings appears awkward on land as it plods along on big webbed feet, spreading its wings for balance.

Before attempting to fish underwater the slightly built bird must first swallow pebbles to weigh itself down, then like a daredevil it plunges madly into the water feet first, diving to great depths to satisfy its hunger.

Darwin's finches

Darwin documented 26 endemic species of birds that included 13 species of finches, 11 of which we are fortunate to spot on the islands. These ingenious birds could do almost anything with the unique beaks each species developed by adapting to their surroundings.

It is absolutely amazing to watch these tiny birds employing a variety of methods to feed themselves by relying on their beaks. A bird with a small beak feeds on insects, while another with a large beak cracks seeds open. Or if the bill is long enough it extracts the pulp from the prickly pear cactus it seems to enjoy.

Their enterprising cousins resort to even more unbelievable (unless seen) feats. A hungry large cactus ground finch actually flips rocks with its sturdy bill to look for food. But my favorite is the talented woodpecker finch. It begins by seeking a twig or cactus spine of just the right size and shape that it will grasp between its beak to remove tree grubs.

Rare and unusual "treasures"

At Tagus Cove, Isabela we enjoy a panga ride where we feast our eyes on the Galapagos penguin, the world's rarest penguin. Although the archipelago straddles the Equator, the Peru Current sweeps northward from the Antarctic cooling the water around the island. These are the only penguins living and breeding as far north as the Equator.

The largest colony of marine iguanas basks on the black basalt rocks onshore of the youngest island, Fernandina. The long-tailed marine iguanas are known as the "diving" reptiles that graze on algae on the ocean floor. Despite their demonic features that remind me of mini-dinosaurs, these huge piles of iguanas are quite harmless. They process absorbed seawater with salt glands and get rid of the brine by "sneezing" although at first I mistakenly think they are spitting at us.

Courtship dance

The blue footed boobies are the dancing darlings of Espanola (Hood). Thousands of these "booby hoppers" entertain each other oblivious of their captive audience. She rocks, he whistles and points skywards, then they build their nests on the ground and mate.

The name is derived from bobo (Spanish for fool) because the bird appears clownish. Could it be some sort of comparison with those big shoes that clowns wear and the way they walk?

Rituals

Between April and December most of the waved albatross population from around the world nest on Espanola. They are the largest birds (with wingspans of eight feet) found in the Galapagos and we are lucky enough to see a newly hatched chick just finding its legs. I am even the subject of an inquiring bird that walks right up to me, but regretfully I am too awestruck to do anything (like take a photograph).

These yellow-beaked beauties are often seen clicking their beaks together, chattering with each other aimlessly and stand on tippy toes as if they are going to dance. They are also fond of "sky pointing" in a ritualistic attempt to bond with their mates.

Those panga rides

The crystal clear waters reveal a treasure trove of graceful underwater performers. Imagine 12 species of sharks, 16 species of whales, seven species of dolphins and five species of rays swim in these waters. On a panga outing we could see the clear outlines of white-tipped reef sharks and schools of rays floated merrily along.

Then along comes "Charlie" a friendly sea lion that swims to catch up with us and then puts on a delightful show of splashing and back flipping, happy as a carefree youngster.

Strolling in Puerto Ayora

Everyone in this little town seems to enjoy life. The shopkeepers are just as happy to smile and say hello even if you are just browsing. Despite a language barrier we stroll down the main street and meet some of the loveliest people in the world.

A mother rides a bicycle with her son strapped to her back. She stops and they both flash smile after smile for my camera. A young man stands weaving a wall hanging beside the store that sells his wares. He willingly lets me record his image as he weaves and I promise to send him a copy in the mail. Women sit with children in hammocks enjoying the lovely breeze blowing across the ocean. We stop for a cool drink and want to buy a banana, but the owner refuses to take our money.

Beaches for swimming and snorkeling

Four beaches on various islands are deliciously inviting especially after an invigorating hike - the white coral beach at Darwin's Bay, Genovesa (Tower), the dark red sand at Rabida (Jervis) black sand beach at Puerto Egas, Santiago (James) and the white sandy beach at Gardner Bay, Espanola.

At Gardner Bay sea lions spiral past and beckon swimming partners to join in the underwater fun. Just remember, when you pack snorkeling equipment be sure to include a sports camera and attach it to your wrist. With his camera left lying on shore, Greg to this day regrets leaving it behind - just when he encounters some of the most gorgeous underwater beauties!

Worldwide recognition

The islands are a national park except for the colonized areas in San Cristobal (Chatham), Santa Cruz, Isabela and older settlements in Floreana (Charles). The Galapagos is a designated World Heritage site by UNESCO and the surrounding sea is a marine reserve.

Seeing more

At Genovesa's Darwin Beach and Prince Phillip's Steps we get more than a bird's eye view of the resident birds. The only northern island that permits visitors is so remote mostly birds occupy the area. Nesting great frigatebirds and red-footed boobies proudly display their babies, while welcoming committees of swallow-tailed and lava gulls frolic at tidal pools near our landing site.

Take a moonwalk

Bartolome, the youngest island in the archipelago, is scattered with spatter cones, lava bombs and cinder cones, where only hardy plantlife and wildlife exist. .

It's 365 steps (I doggedly count them) to the cinder cone top that is as breezy as it is beautiful when you look over Sullivan Bay and the prominent Pinnacle Rock, an eroded tuff cone. There are two beaches for swimming and snorkeling, one at the northern end and the other on the southern side.

Beyond Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, the capital of the Galapagos Islands, we sail past Leon Dormido (Sleeping Lion) also called Kicker Rock, an imposing vertical tuff cone, towering 486 feet above the ocean. Masked boobies, blue-footed boobies and frigate birds observe us while sea lions swim in the 30-foot channel created by the erosion that split the rock.

Charles Darwin summarized his sightings with these words, "I never dreamed that islands, about fifty or sixty miles apart, and most of them in sight of each other, formed of precisely the same rocks, placed under a quite similar climate, rising in a nearly equal height, would have been differently tenanted…. but this is the case."

After my visit, believe me, it is true. This is the animal kingdom of the world, where large and small creatures are the rulers of the land and sea.