SKI SCENES FROM SWITZERLANDBy David Vernon |
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Standing at the bottom of the Gornegrat railway station, waiting to be whisked to the top of the peaks of Zermatt, I pause for a moment to reflect on where I have been and what I have experienced. My travels have taken me to the most challenging and most beautiful ski resorts of western Switzerland over the last 12 weeks. I have skied on two national borders and raced through some of the finest powder in the Valais while testing my will and resolve on some of the most challenging terrain in Europe.
The single-car cog wheel train rumbles into the station, representing half of the Gornegrat Railway Co.'s fleet. My legs ache from the stress but they will be relieved during the 25-minute journey up the northeastern face of the Zermatt valley. A familiar sight begins to form in front of me. Snow top chalets, made from some of the finest timber, crafted with pronounced triangular roofs, crowds gathering at the base of several lift stations, right in the heart of the city. A white blanket of snow covers the village as less trees appear on the landscape and we ascend in altitude. Such is the scenery of Switzerland - small communities nested deep within imposing valleys and cliffs, an Eden for the adventurous skier. Beginning in international Geneva, visitors can take a number of trains across the northern rim of Lake Geneva, towards the Canton of Valais, a two-and-a-half-hour train ride towards a skier's paradise. Passing Lausanne and changing trains in famed Montreux, the terrain of the Bernese Oberland teases the horizon. Our Panoramic Express, a unique, tall-windowed luxury train through the northern reaches of the Swiss Alps, sends us towards the trendy and exotic resort village of Gstaad, pronounced "Hchstaadt." Gstaad exudes affluence and prestige as celebrities often flock in numbers to walk along the designer and jewelry lined streets of the village and to enjoy chic restaurants, bars and the surrounding villages. Hosting the Swiss Open and classical music festivals in the spring and summer, Gstaad plays host to the rich and famous in the winter on her ski slopes. We have come to Gstaad for one reason - to ski at Les Diablerets Glacier. Glacier skiing, rather then downhill, affords skiers a very different experience. We meet the Glacier on a bright and sunny day, but we soon discover that her steep slopes and breathtaking bowls are more suited for the professional. Instead we sit and sip Tuborg's and watch some local daredevils sail over one kicker after another. Transportation from Geneva to Gstaad, two nights accommodation, food and entertainment and a two day ski pass for the region will cost visitors approximately US$400 per person, though the potential for this cost to rise is very high depending on one's taste. Gstaad is home to fine luxury hotels and restaurants, but it was also a place to reacquaint ourselves with the finer art of skiing, in preparation of what was to come. Leaving Gstaad, through Montreux, Lake Geneva soon disappears as we head towards the Canton of Valais and the resort of Portes du Soleil. The, "Door of the Sun," is perched high atop the Swiss Alps, straddling both Switzerland and France, making Portes du Soleil the largest international ski resort in the world. After taking several solid runs, and some not so solid spills we aim to test the nearly 650 kilometers of terrain between the two neighboring countries shaking with anticipation. Champery's charm is her calling and addiction. The small and authentic Swiss village located close to Aigle in the Illiesz Valley and the Portes du Soleil resort, opens her heart to all types of skiers. We first begin on intermediate runs then advance to some of the expert terrain. The snow is tough as snowfalls are not as common in Valais, famous for its constant sunshine, forcing skiers to opt for fleece vests and sunglasses rather then down-filled attire. A breathtaking panorama awaits us at the Croix de Culet viewpoint, a short walk from the top of the Palanachaux cable car at 1900 meters, atop Champery and the Portes du Soleil area. For the remainder of the day we are treated to Portes du Soleil's specialty, sunshine and powder, skiing off-piste to our heart's content. Transportation from Geneva to Champery, two nights accommodation, food and entertainment and a two day ski pass at Portes du Soleil will cost visitors approximately IS$350 per person but is well worth every penny. For those who wish to ski over to the French side, or those who just prefer French onion soup to fondu, bring your passport, though you will notice very little differences between the two sides. Going east from Champery, to Martigny, a small "connection" town for train transport to the eastern Valais and to Italy, our train heads for Verbier. Meandering through one village after another, we are treated to fascinating scenery and geography eventually making our way to the village of Le Chable, the gateway to the famous resort of Verbier. Verbier is a resort for the Swiss, not tourists, and skiing at Verbier in the low tourist season can be difficult for non-French speaking adventurers. Verbier is trendy and sophisticated, boasting one of the largest cable cars in Switzerland. "Le Jumbo" takes skiers to the top of Verbier's Mont Fort, 3300 meters high. In contrast with the slow and patient life in Champery, we look forward to deep powder, tough terrain and Verbier's famous nightlife. With one pass, skiers can have access to over 400 kilometers and 95 lifts in the four-valley area of Verbier, Bruson, Station, Savoleyres and Mount Fort. Atop its glacier, Verbier plays host to some of the most challenging and remarkable skiing in southern Switzerland, combining demanding, ungroomed off-piste skiing, with a plethora of intermediate and beginner trails. Transportation from Champery to Le Chable/Verbier, two nights accommodation, food and entertainment and a two day ski pass for "Four Valees" (Valleys) region will cost visitors approximately US$340 per person, but budget more for the tempting nightlife and parties. Skiing down from Mont Fort, the vastness of Verbier is daunting. With every turn we make we are treated to unexplored areas. It seems skiing in track free powder at Verbier is easier then we thought. But alas our desire to traverse the passes of Verbier give way to the scents and sounds of Place Centrale and the pubs of Verbier's village. After sampling the culture of the village the night before, we reluctantly take to the hills to ski off the pain in our throbbing heads, realizing a purer and more tranquil cure for the hangover. Leaving the bustle of the Verbier village behind, we head southeastward towards the Italian border for one of the most famous Swiss landmarks and maybe some penne arribiatta. Zermatt, home to the famous Matterhorn, is a Swiss treasure. The village (without cars) is a haven for romance, culture and ski adventure. Zermatt's horse drawn carriages and tiny electric cars can be seen taking visitors to all corners of the famous village; however it is the stunning views of the Matterhorn that most flock to Zermatt for. Approximately 4000 meters in altitude, the Matterhorn dominates the surrounding valley and ranges as its majestic foothills and reaches surround Zermatt making it one of the most ideal places in the world to ski. Sharing its domain with neighboring Cervina, Italy to the south, the village of Zermatt has over 250 kilometers of ski trails and 75 lifts capable of moving over 75,000 skiers all over the resort in one hour. Transportation from Le Chable/Verbier to Zermatt, two nights accommodation, food and entertainment and a two day ski pass for the Zermatt region will cost visitors about US$400 per person. Soon the fun will be over, but on the second day we ski to Cervina, passing the Italian border control and ski down the southern face of the Matterhorn region. Our lunch that day was tremendous. Our penne and cappuccino's marking the triumph of our adventure. At over 4000 meters high, the top of Zermatt/Cervina is the highest we have skied while in Europe and it is fitting that our last memories of Switzerland should be at her peak. As the last call for passengers on the Gornegrat railway is announced, my thoughts are recklessly strewn across the tops of the Swiss Alps. I ponder the highlight of this trip - was it the suave clientele of Gstaad, my fall at Portes du Soleil (realizing that the "iron cross" was better attempted by professionals), the vastness of the terrain at Verbier, or the size of the Matterhorn? Geneva is gone and our plane is now high above the clouds headed for the Atlantic. The Alps are gone from view, but not for me. I am smiling because I can still see them.
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