FALLING FOR OCHO RIOS

The main thoroughfare between Negril, Montego Bay and Ocho Rios is not in the best of condition. Only 45 miles from Tryall Club, we were told the trip to Ocho Rios would take 90 minutes.The shuttle ride lasted nearly three hours. Large sections of the 'highway' are unpaved, and one section that runs right next to the shore is washed away. Bridges are being rebuilt in an almost random pattern. And they've been working on this road for over two years. Who knows when it will be done? Be prepared for a major dose of island time when planning excursions.

All this could not stop our visit to Dunn's River Falls, perhaps the most famous attraction on the island.

We arrived 45 minutes prior to the park's closing time and most of the other visitors had already come and gone. After paying the US$6 entrance fee, a walkway leads down to a beach at the base of the falls. Here, a guide 'volunteered' to lead us up the slippery slope. Our guide, Lawrence, extended his hand to Julia and instructed Mike, Karen and myself to link hands to form a human chain and carefully follow him.

We each wore rubber soled beach shoes or Tevas for the climb. Old sneakers are also recommended. If you don't have proper footwear, rental shoes are available for a couple of dollars. The cool clear mountain water was the perfect antidote to the long, stuffy drive.

We scrambled up the rocks, stopping occasionally to take a dip in the pools between each cascade. The torrent also formed several natural Jacuzzis to sit in and exhilarating powerful showers to sit or stand under. Lawrence was very adamant about where we could stop and play and where we had to stay together. Somehow it felt like we were on a kindergarten outing, but the falls has an excellent safety record and the guides mean to keep it that way by placing their patrons on a short leash.

Lawrence could probably negotiate these falls in his sleep because he knew all the tough spots and warned us to "watch out", and he probably saved a lot of anguish for all of us toting cameras. I wish I'd taken a shot of him carrying three cameras slung around his neck like a tourist! Thankfully none of our cameras got wet and he was great at snapping a few shots of our group.

The hike lasted about 40 minutes and we each tipped Lawrence at the top. To exit the park, we faced a gauntlet of merchants eager to sell their wares. Along the corridor of shacks the craftsmen would rush out, thrusting their hands outward and proclaiming "Respect Mon." If you didn't shake hands, they'd chase after you saying, "Don't you respect me mon?" If you did take their hand, they'd attempt to pull you into their shop. If you don't want to buy anything just head back towards the entrance and escape there. If you do wish to shop and enjoy haggling, you'll have grand time. Mike and Julia did and came away with a few island souvenirs.

I wouldn't let this be a deterrent though as the falls are very impressive, and I am sure it's very enjoyable at a more leisurely pace. But not every time you go to Dunns River Falls dinner is waiting at Evita's. There's always a next time!