St. David’s Point, Grenada : As petals glisten with dew around me and the morning sun caresses my face, my footsteps echo over crackling nutmeg shells on the pathway at Bel Air Plantation, a stunning 18-acre property opened three years ago by Susan Fisher on the site of the first European settlement in Grenada.
I follow the downhill slope past the infinity pool with two waltzing frogs on the stone terrace and five minutes later I am at the croton laden entrance to The Water’s Edge, Bel Air’s restaurant and bar and upstairs lounge. All day long sailboats drift idly by or sit at anchor in the shelter of St. David’s Harbour in vivid contrast to the vibrant seaside mahoe, sea grape and palm trees bordering the beachfront restaurant.
Fisher’s dream project spanned three years in the making, and now every guest’s welcome is as warm as the 11 pink, blue, yellow or green hued cottages and villas. “What I wanted to create was a place where people could get away from the world in comfortable home like surroundings,” says Fisher of her original plans. Today she defines Bel Air as “Old world Caribbean architecture with modern amenities, and a natural feeling place where people could escape to wind down and relax.”
The dreamy Caribbean hideaway does wonders for sun-seekers in search of endless summer and it is the perfect setting for idyllic weddings and honeymoons. This establishment is very reminiscent of my visit to the exclusive “41” boutique hotel on London ’s Buckingham Palace Road where guests are discreetly received and given personalized attention.
With a welcoming smile, Bel Air’s assistant manager, Rhona, escorts me to my villa and assures me any questions or requests are just a call away via the cell phone she provides for my convenience. Brimming with hospitality, villa perks go beyond the usual coffee and tea ready for brewing. A complimentary welcome stock for week-long stays or more extends to fruits, beverages, cheese, crackers, and best of all, delicious freshly baked bread from the restaurant. An on-site mini-market and gift shop offers convenient access to deli items, fresh fruits and vegetables, beer and wine, toiletries, sun protection products, souvenirs, postcards and even stamps!
Villa living, Bel Air style, is sumptuously inviting at 900 sq.ft. for singles and 1,500 sq.ft. for doubles. The open concept living, dining and kitchen space allows for television, musical interludes or après-dinner drinks. Seagrass, bamboo and wooden furnishings accented by Earthworks pottery and original artwork are expressions of Fisher’s burgeoning talent as an interior decorator. My favorite is, as always, the four-poster in the bedroom with an assortment of fluffy pillows and cool Supima cotton sheets. The corner bathroom showcases a shower and a Jacuzzi tub with Gilchrist and Soames toiletries and matching towel sets hang on a floor to ceiling bamboo rack, along with luxury bathrobes for in-room use.
But Fisher’s focus does not stop indoors. “We thought of thinning the vegetation and keeping the nice trees and interesting plants,” she says. “We were set on preserving as much of the natural vegetation, plants and trees.”
The result is that beyond every window shutter, doorway and verandah there is greenery and splashes of color dotting the landscape. Heliconias, bougainvilleas (Grenada’s national flower), anthuriums and oleanders flourish in this tropical oasis, alongside Queen Palm, Mediterranean Fan Palm, Cuban Royal Palm, Travelers Palm, Mexican Blue Palm, Spindle Palm and Chinese Fan Palm. There are Canna lilies in Ambassador Red and Richard Wallace varieties, but it is the Cleopatra with regal red and yellow blooms that blazes with great intensity.
This is a gardener’s paradise perfumed with floral fragrances from the Hawaiian wedding flower (Marsenia Floribunda “Stephanotis Vine”), frangipani (Plumeria), Arabian jasmine (Jasminum Sambac) and Tahitian gardenia. Another beauty is the flowering shrub called Sanchezia Speciosa with its gorgeous foot-long leaves and tubular yellow blooms that attract hummingbirds and butterflies.
Swimming and lounging poolside are as enjoyable for its location overlooking the harbor as it is to get acquainted with fellow guests and, on occasion, exchange travel tales. The natural barrier reefs around Bel Air are ideal for snorkeling and so is the bay for kayaking and swimming. Some guests come ashore for a respite on land, while others may be clients of Grenada Marine next door, one of the few remaining boatyards restoring wooden yachts. A new dinghy dock was installed for boaters who wish to dine at The Water’s Edge.
Bel Air Plantation takes its name from a family-owned rice and coconut estate in Guyana, a tribute to the birthplace of Fisher’s mother. Together with her father, a former member of the British merchant navy and retired research scientist, the fashion executive-turned-hotelier planned the development to reflect the island’s once colonial roots. Instead of forts, luxury villas perch atop the bluffs in splendid salute to peace and tranquility.
“I really wanted it to reflect the simple, traditional Caribbean buildings with character and flair to be more like a little Caribbean village rather than a resort,” says Fisher. And that is exactly what visitors will find here, a go-at-your-own-pace existence, no sign-ups required.
Fisher’s labor of love is just reward for someone who knows what she wants. “I love to create things,” she says, referring to the transformed property with roads and utilities that was once overgrown with bush.
“We have the best guests,” declares Fisher. “I think the type of people who select this resort are the kind of people that I get along with perfectly. I can sit and chat with my guests in the evening for hours at a time and they become friends.”
I recently met two of those wonderful guests on their return visit. Martin and Sue from the UK were at Bel Air when hurricane Ivan slammed into the island two years ago. They eagerly pitched in to help, Martin wielding a machete for the first time to clear fallen tree branches, and Sue lending a hand in the kitchen when staff couldn’t get to work. Afterwards they cooled off in the pool with some of Fisher’s best Champagne as government helicopters flew overhead. Apart from one window that was lost, there was no structural damage at Bel Air since all construction adheres to Florida ’s hurricane building codes.
The dinners here give new meaning to gourmet cuisine, a divine mix of savory dishes imbued with a Creole accent, the trademark of Chef Debbie St. Paul. The petite chef with a shy smile loves to indulge guests with her one-of-a-kind temptations.
Would you ever have thought of flaming grilled chicken in rum? It’s served in a ginger cream sauce, and by the way it’s done with Grenadian rum. Another palate pleaser you’re really relish is coconut lobster – imagine taking mouthfuls of the coconut coated crustacean dipped in a sweet and sour sauce made with guavas!
For the dessert lovers in most of us, Bel Air’s multi-talented chef will tickle your fancy with her specially created tropical delights such as beetroot nut cake, nutmeg pie, pineapple rum pie and papaya or passion fruit tarts.
The staff at The Water’s Edge Restaurant will cater to guests with special food preferences (allergies, dietary restrictions, etc.) My wheat and gluten-free diet is never compromised even at breakfast when I request golden fried plantains to accompany my omelet livened up with piquant flavoring peppers. The beautifully color coordinated fruit plate featuring sliced bananas, mangoes and watermelon, crowned with slices of my island favorite, sapodillas, is a treat I enjoy more than once.
Fisher credits Bel Air’s success to the honest, hardworking and loyal team on her staff, however, from the very beginning she knew she liked the warm, friendly nature of Grenadians, a sentiment that is often expressed by visitors. But I also discover they don’t forget guests either! On my second visit, David, the bartender, looks up, smiles widely and says, “You’re back.” Jillian also recognizes me and instantly recalls that my breakfast starts with half a grapefruit and a glass of freshly squeezed juice. Angela even notices my hair looks different!
Click here to read more about The Water’s Edge Restaurant in “A Love Affair with Food in Grenada ”
Hiking to the “point” (St. David’s Point) is far from strenuous, but much of the area is overgrown and you will need a machete to clear the way and a pair of binoculars to enjoy some of the panoramic vistas. Tramping through grass several feet high with Agard as my guide I am surprised to stumble upon a large clump of cactus growing with full abandon, and almost everywhere I turn there are wildflowers too. On a clear day the views are endless, and if you venture up to the very edge of the lookout, there is a limited view of La Sagesse Bay on the left, and to the right there is a full-length view of the inlet at the harbor.
A 15-minute hike away is La Sagesse Nature Center. We hop into Rhona’s car and within five minutes I am soaking up the sunshine on the beach. Fresh fish is the specialty at the restaurant for lunch and dinner. It is a popular spot that attracts visitors to its mile-long, palm-fringed beach and nearby hiking trails.
If you would like to discover the island’s historical and cultural influences the services of a tour guide is highly recommended. Escorted by Kennedy Jawahir, who operates Kennedy Tours, I visited a number of Grenada ’s popular attractions. Click here for a full-length article on the island “ Grenada In All Her Glory”