TREADING SOFTLY IN ST. AUGUSTINE

Text and Photography by PamelaAnn Campbell

St. Augustine , FL : If you like surprises, St. Augustine is overflowing with them. Unlike Ponce de Leon I wasn’t looking for the fountain of youth, but in less than a week I was gushing with youthfulness.

Enough to soar like a kite a thousand feet over Matanzas Bay, single-handedly paddle a kayak on Guana Lake, ride a horse on Ponte Vedra Beach and climb over 200 stairs to the top of St. Augustine Lighthouse!

If you’ve never tried parasailing, at least do it once. It seemed harmless as we watched Rob send us skywards and Aaron steered the boat for a perfect liftoff, but in a few minutes my friend Eileen was confessing her fear of heights. I didn’t mind hurtling towards the heavens, but I shifted nervously trying to find a comfortable position while clutching the harness straps tightly as if my life depended on it. That’s when we launched into a screamfest (“Get us down, we want down!”) that threatened to deafen our own ears, but like kids on a wild rollercoaster ride we soon got it out of our system. We chatted aimlessly while enjoying the view of the bay and by the time we landed both of us had grins as wide as the smiley face on the parachute used by Smile High Parasail, confident we had conquered every nerve-wracking moment in the air. Would we go again? Why not?

As for kayaking, Rachel and Patrick, our guides at Kayak Adventures, were most reassuring, but I was preoccupied with the spill I had taken while getting into a kayak on Tybee Island in Georgia, losing my Versace sunglasses at the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean. After we were prepped on handling the paddles and steering maneuvers, we pushed off onto the lake to enjoy the quiet calm of the morning. My previous trips in a two-person kayak always boosted my confidence, but now I was paddling my own kayak. Determined not to tip over, I challenged myself with a few reverse turnarounds, probably alarming Patrick who kept a watchful eye on us as he brought up the rear. This was my first group excursion with six other paddlers, but it was fun. Rachel helped us to spot some of the coastal birds in the pristine habitat, but my favorite on the tour was a close-up look at the pink flamingoes and spoonbills at the sandbar near the end of the trip.

A soft adventure trip to the matriarchal European settlement in the United States should include Ponte Vedra Beach to its north, perfect for horseback riding with Sawgrass Stables. We were matched with horses according to our weight, but I soon discovered each horse had a distinctive personality. Joe had Boogie, Scott took Best, while Sheila went with Charger. I rode Coast, a well-mannered horse, who sometimes tried to take the lead, but Buster, Eileen’s horse, would have none of it. Although June McDonald’s horses tower over their under five-foot owner, they are attuned to her voice commands, but I also discovered she has a soft spot for them as much as she has for her sister’s grand-babies who she would often take horseback riding. Perhaps it’s the warm sea breeze, but riding Coast up and down the sandy beach, shells scattered everywhere, I stayed in the saddle, a light trot here and a canter there, without a care in the world.

An impromptu visit to the St. Augustine Lighthouse & Museum tested my “climbing” skills, but I passed with flying colors, conquering its 219 stairs to enjoy the panoramic view from the top. Originally a wooden tower, then a coquina* stone guardhouse and watchtower built by the Spanish, the structure officially became Florida’s first lighthouse in 1824, lit by the mirror reflection of 10 huge oil lamps. By 1871 building was underway for a 1.2 million-count brick lighthouse, away from the encroaching sea. Three years later the first order Fresnel lens provided the light, then later fueled by kerosene in 1885. It was the very last lighthouse to covert to electricity in Florida (1936), but within three years it was being run by the United States Coast Guard. Automated lighting started in 1955 by which a photocell figures the heat of the sun and controls when the light bulb is turned on or off inside the rotating Fresnel lens, seen as far away as 20 nautical miles. There is a breathtaking view from the observation deck, equivalent to a 14-story building or the bridge of a destroyer. The prominent black and white spiral landmark crowned by its red top is 165 feet tall. * Coquina is a unique sedimentary rock

America’s oldest city has an unrivaled mystique, but I had no idea my trip to America’s oldest city would suddenly morph into a bit of a thriller at The Alligator Farm, a zoological park with 1,000 resident alligators including the Chinese species and an albino alligator. As the farm’s General Director, John Brueggan described the Species Survival Plan, I got out my camera, but suddenly my lens cap went careening into the alligator pond. Instantly, Brueggan scaled the viewing porch and there was a huge splash as four alligators rushed towards him. Terrified, I cowered nearby, saying, “Please don’t, I can get another one,” but within mere minutes a totally unfazed Brueggan scooped up the errant cap and handed it over to me. Yikes, a real cameo moment!

“There are less than 200 Chinese alligators in the wild in China, but we have been able to breed them quite readily,” said Brueggan. He explained that they partner them with other zoos and when an animal is born that is a male and some other zoo has a female that is unrelated (they tag them) then they will find some way to get them together to re-produce. In 2006 he went to China and took 12 alligators from the local zoos and in May 2007 he returned, fitted them with transmitters, then released them in new wild habitat so that they could keep track of them. “That’s kind of the whole reason we’re in this field to help those animals back to where they belong.” Because of the program it’s tied together and there is a very active component in the form of a computerized stud book that keeps track of who’s related to whom,” he continued. “We don’t in-breed animals and we have a very good genetic background for them and each program is designed so that those animals will be healthy and sustainable for the next hundred years.”

Did you know Chinese alligators can probably live to 60 years or more as they are long-life animals? I didn’t. But Brueggan insisted the same program applies to smaller, short-lived animals…..it’s all part of a species survival plan that will see the offspring go to other zoos to be paired up with other animals so that some of them will eventually return to the wild. Some of the Chinese alligators were captured in Russia, others born in the United States, but it has been a long process that has resulted in a good, solid population, he said.

Above the alligator swamp the bird rookery was a hive of mating activity, another surprising treat. Throngs of egrets, herons and irises nest high in the treetop haven, safe from predators fearful of the alligators below, but it was very exciting to watch the spectacular plumage display as the males vied for the attention of the females.(April to July is the breeding season.) The First Coast Birding and Nature Festival is held in April and features trips, seminars and a photo contest for bird and nature lovers to enjoy the area’s beauty.

The most impressive St. Augustine landmark (with a spectacular panoramic view of the bay) is the immaculately preserved Spanish colonial fortification in the continental United States called Castillo de San Marcos National Monument. Strategically located on the west bank of Matanzas Bay, the coquina fortress enabled the best defense against invasion through the harbor entrance or a ground attack to the north, throughout a succession of Spanish, French and British rule from 1565 until 1821 when Spain finally ceded Florida to the United States. (Coquina is a unique sedimentary rock.) Self-guided tours begin at the Sally Port which doubles as the only entrance and exit of the square shaped Castillo, flanked by its four diamond shaped corner bastions, but interpretive ranger programs about the turbulent colonial era are also available.

Once aboard the double masted Schooner Freedom, a 72-foot replica of a 19th century blockade runner, I tried to envisage the swashbuckling seafarers of that bygone era (I don’t think they indulged in leisurely sailing or snacks and drinks like we did), but it was hardly a match for the stunning bayside mansions we sailed past. The entertainment? Firing a “ball” of bread from the mini-canon was a blast! In contrast, the inflatable boat excursion with Zach McKenna at dusk was a mini-environmental lesson, but we also tried dolphin spotting although we only saw a few. Still, we did id some jellyfish and birds. St. Augustine Eco Tours safely limits tours to six passengers.

A The Marineland Dolphin Conservation Center is popular for interactive programs with its resident dolphins in eight different habitats awash with 1.3 million gallons of filtered water from the Atlantic. Dolphin lovers, from five years of age can participate in the Dolphin Designs, Discover Dolphins, and the Immersion programs - anyone can watch a dolphin artist at work “painting” or meeting and observing a dolphin in shallow water with its trainer. A 30-minute shallow or deep water allows session allow participants to snorkel or swim with the bottlenose dolphin. Flippers & Fins is designed for children as young as three years of age, while guests must be 10 years older to book The Quest program to be a pseudo-trainer on Friday and Saturday afternoons only.

For a signature hands-on experience encompassing environmental studies and natural resource interpretation, the Guana Tolomato Matanzas Environmental Educational Center at Ponte Vedra Beach is a must-see. Visitors can roam the 21,000 square-foot center filled with exhibits, aquariums, research laboratory and classrooms, and of course, a gift shop.

But it wasn’t only the sights that swayed my adventurous spirit, it was the local fare……. I dared to try fried alligator tail at the inimitable Salt Water Cowboys, a home-grown family restaurant. The fried version tasted like chicken tenders. On the mostly seafood menu were fried, broiled, baked, grilled, blackened, steamed or barbecued dishes, but my favorite was the deviled crab baked in real shells. Next time I might even try frog legs and cooter, a soft shell turtle, who knows? Did I mention the willow twig furniture, worn wooden flooring and rusty tin ceiling? Loved that too!

Memories of breakfast at The World Famous Oasis Restaurant include the tasty seafood omelet I savored but I still wonder about the dozen plus television sets perched around the room upstairs. The menu listed selections under “Catch Me” and “Grill Me” but only for lunch and dinner, maybe next time.

O.C. White’s, an open air dinner spot, caters to steak and seafood lovers or vegetarians. With shrimp, mahi, Maryland blue crab, grouper, salmon in assorted culinary creations on the menu, I salivated between Shrimp St. Bart’s (garlic, shallots, white wine and Canadian bacon, simmered in a light Asiago cream sauce) and exotic Jamaican Rum Jerk Chicken (spicy dark rum marinade topped with a pineapple mango salsa), but I opted for the shrimp.

At Kingfish Grill it was “casual waterfront dining” and lunch and the setting were a hit. With Oysters Vilano, Oysters on the Half and Fried Oysters alongside Flash Fried Calamari, Camachee Crab Cakes, it was a challenge to pick from these starters. Then came the wraps and rolls – grilled chicken, fresh catch of the day or shrimpwith sautéed onions and peppers, cheddar, fresh salsa and sour cream in a fajita. Of course I had the shrimp stuffed fajita served with sautéed spinach and sweet potato fries, and kudos to the chef, I finished every tasty morsel.

A great oceanfront dining spot is The Reef Restaurant on Coastal Highway A1A, North Vilano Beach, popular with locals and visitors for its fresh seafood specialties. If steaks and pastas are your favorites, they have those too! I couldn’t resist their freshly baked key lime pie, and just as well, it was sinfully delicious.

Cap’s on the Water sits on the Intra-Coastal Waterway, but dining under the oak trees adds a distinctive old Florida charm, although they call themselves “the classiest dive in North Florida.” For the dedicated seafood aficionado, skip the other stuff and go for the oysters, dungeness crab, mussels or shrimp. The sides are quite intriguing, especially the specialty varieties of rice. Still in an adventurous mood, I teased my palate with Chinese black rice, a medium grain unmilled rice with white kernels inside the black bran. The cooked rice grains, however, appeared intensely purple and had a distinctive nutty flavor.

In tune with the city’s Spanish influence, Sangria’s Tapas and Piano Bar, exudes an alluring atmosphere, tempted our taste buds and even got our feet moving to the lively Latin tempo of Luis Mario. This sangria hotspot (seven varieties) on Hypolita Street is popular for its tapas menu, as well as the panoramic view from its balcony overlooking St.George Street in the bustling historic district.

As daring as I got with the food, I was in for one final night adventure, the Ripley’s Ghost Tour. Equipped with an electromagnetic field device that was supposed to “detect unusual energy activity” and a free camera to record ghostly sightings, we hopped on the Ghost Train one windy night. We stopped at some of St. Augustine’s most haunted areas and listened to our guides recount tales of lost love, disappearances and tragic endings. Returning to Castle Warden we tramped up the creaky stairways in virtual darkness for more scary stories about the rooms and their contents. Although I didn’t encounter any apparitions, nor did my hair stand on end, I was mesmerized by the Marilyn Monroe wall hanging. Did she wink at me? If she did, do you think I was dreaming?

I am compelled to add a footnote to this article about Uncle Sam’s written by local author, Jay Humphreys. It’s a novel filled with poignant memories of St. Augustine’s musicians and religious locals, a German spy, the FBI and bigotry woven into a web of intrigue that will captivate you from cover to cover. Read it before you go, and again, when you return.







TRAVEL GUIDE

Matanzas Bay cruises on Schooner Freedom www.schoonerfreedom.com

St. Augustine Alligator Farm and Zoological Parkwww.alligatorfarm.com

First Coast Birding and Nature Festival www.Getaway4Nature.com

St. Augustine Eco Tours www.staugustineecotours.com

Marineland Dolphin Conservation Centerwww.marineland.net

Smile High Parasail www.smilehighparasail.com

Kayak Adventures www.kayakadventuresllc.com

St. Augustine Lighthouse and Museum www.staaugustinelighthouse.com

Guana Tolomato Matanzas Environmental Education Centerwww.gtmnerr.org

Sawgrass Stables, Jacksonville Tel: 904-285-3791

Accommodation

Beacher’s Lodge www.Beacherslodge.com

The Inn at Camachee Cove www.camacheeinn.com

Restaurants

World Famous Oasis Restaurant www.worldfamousoasis.com

Salt Water Cowboys Restaurant www.saltwatercowboys.com

The Reef Restaurant www.thereefstaugustine.com

O.C. White’s Restaurant www.ocwhites.com

Kingfish Grill www.kingfishgrille.com

Cap’s on the Water www.capsonthewater.com

Sangria’s Tapas and Piano Bar Tel: 904-827-1947

Recommended reading: Uncle Sam’s by Jay Humphreys (available at www.matanzaspress.com)

Information on St. Augustine, Ponte Vedra and the Beaches www.Getaway4Florida.com