A COUNT WHO LOVES COMPANY
by Sandy Katz

History

Portugal is an independent kingdom since 1143, establishing its continental frontiers in 1297 and is one of the oldest nations in Europe. Situated in the extreme southwest corner of Europe, Portugal occupies roughly one-sixth of the Iberian Peninsula and has a population of just over 10 million. Its geographic location along the Atlantic Coast soon determined its vocation to the sea.

In 1415, the Portuguese set sail on an epic voyage that would make them the first to discover the ocean routes to India, Brazil, China and Japan, and at the same time founded settlements on the east and west coast of Africa.

The vast monumental, artistic and archeological heritage has witnessed not only the 850 years of history of encounters with distant cultures, but also the presence in the territory of more ancient peoples (Celts, Suevians, Visigoths, Romans and Arabs.)

The natural advantage of a sunny country with such diverse geographic features has turned Portugal into a chosen destination for many holidaymakers. For centuries Portugal has kept the greatest treasure: a renowned reputation of hospitality that makes the country a haven of congeniality and safety.

Travelers in Portugal will find a mild-mannered, easy-going people. They have an innate sense of politeness and a quality they respect in others. The Portuguese tend to dress well, if rather conservatively and use formal modern address. They are gregarious. You can often find folks eating, drinking and making merry in large groups-as a festival, or in a restaurant celebrating a birthday or a first communion.

The family is the bosom of Portuguese daily life as I experienced visiting the Solares de Portugal.  The owners of the manor houses usually cooked us a delicious cod fish dinner and put out a delightful buffet continental breakfast. Although old customs are gradually changing, especially in the cities, it is quite common for three generations to be under one roof and it is normal for both men and women to stay living in the family home until they marry.

Catholicism is at the heart of Portuguese life, especially in the north, where you will see a crucifix or the image of a saint watching over most homes, cafes and barber’s shops.

Although church attendance is in decline, particularly in the cities, devotion to Lady of Fatima remains steadfast.

If you enjoy cooler temperature fall is a mellow fruitful time of year with the countryside a collage of brown, gold and red. September is also the start of the vintage season. Grapes are harvested and crushed to wine in a spirit of festivity, especially in the port-growing Douro region.

MANOR HOUSES (Solares de Portugal)

We flew into Lisbon on TAP Air Portugal then continued to Porto to begin our Soleres de Portugal experience at PACO DE CALHEIROS.

One of the greatest rewards of international travel is the discovery of places to stay that are unlike any other - a place that reflects the culture and character, in the people’s natural surroundings of its location. There is no better way to experience all the variety and charm of Portugal than by staying at one of the Solares de Portugal.

The Solares de Portugal are the elegant manor houses, farm estates and rustic country houses located throughout the country. They are grouped on a loose association called TURIHAB, created in 1980s of 100 properties totaling approximately 1,500 rooms. This organization was formed to preserve Portugal’s own tradition of staying in country homes and providing visitors with exceptional choices of accommodations in the more rural areas where hotels and resorts are scarce. Already a favorite among travelers from Britain, Canada and Scandinavia, they are rapidly becoming the first choice of American visitors who seek alternative to a hotel.

The Solares de Portugal are divided into three categories and three price structures:

CASA ANTIGAS are elegant manor houses and country estates dating back to 17^th and 18^th centuries that are distinguished by their fine architecture and impressive histories.

QUINTAS AND HERDADES are rural farms and country estates where architectural styles range from classic to rustic. CASAS RUSTICAS are (as the name implies) more rustic country houses offering simpler, yet comfortable furnishings. They are located in small villages or on a rural farm.

My first Solares de Portugal experience was memorable. The Count of Calheiros was the perfect host proudly welcoming us into his 17^th Century family manor house. PACO DE CALHEIROS has an impressive entrance with its distinguished gateway, beautiful tree-lined drive and stone fountain. A definite top-of-the-line Casa Antigas Category A, complete with swimming pool, garden and delicious meals. The Count sat majestically at the head of the table during dinner, just as you would imagine a Count  - handsome and distinguished. 

While in the area we visited Ponte de Lima (7km from Paco de Calheiros) experiencing their Thematic gardens (various types of gardens-Roman, Baroque, Renaissance, Neo-Classical and the Rural Museum.) This attractive riverside town takes its name from the ancient bridge over the river Lima. During the Middle Ages, the town played a pivotal role in the defense of the Minho against the Moors.

The Roman bridge has only five of its original stone arches, the rest were rebuilt or restored in the 14^th and 15^th centuries. The 15^th century church of Santo Antonio now houses the museum of sacred art with a fine display of carvings.

The remaining medieval fortifications of Porte de Lima include the former prison tower and 15^th-century fortress palace that now functions as the town hall. The town’s market, a tradition dating back to 1125, takes place on the river’s wide and sandy left bank. In mid-September crowds gather in the town to celebrate new fairs, a combined religious festival and folkloric market.

After two marvelous nights at Paco de Calheiros enjoying the Count’s hospitality and friendship, we moved on to our next Solares de Portugal CASA DE ALFENA- Category B that featured a gold museum.

TRAVASSOS Gold Museum opened in 2001 reflecting and promoting the identity of the community linked for generations to craftsmanship of gold artifacts. The museum is the offspring of a local goldsmith’s passion for the art and presents us with a vast collection of gold objects, tools and furniture. This privately held museum is installed in a former goldsmith’s workshop belonging to Casa de Alfena.

CASA DE ALFENA is a manorial house from the 18^th century linked to a group of rural buildings and old goldsmith workshop. Travassos is a traditional filigree workshop-village located in the North Bank of river Ave, and in the vicinity of Peneda-Geres National Park.

This visit gave us the opportunity to see several generations living under the same roof sharing housing and responsibility of running the manor house. We enjoyed a lovely traditional codfish casserole prepared by the elegant lady of the manor. Watching all the generations interact was uplifting.

It was an emotional goodbye since we bonded immediately with these warm and friendly people. Today we were off to Regua where we cruised on the Douro River stopping at Pinhao for wine tasting at the Vintage..

We checked into Casa DAS TORRES DE OLIVEIRA CASA ANTIGAS Category A. This magnificent manor house was built in a carefully selected area to enjoy beautiful landscape in which the Douro River winds slowly down towards the sea.

Later we traveled to Porto and checked into Pestance Carlton Hotel.located on the waterfront and quaint shops nearby. We toured Porto including Sandeman Port Winery where I picked up several bottles of Port for gifts.