Mutter the name Gordon Ramsey and the vision of a kitchen nightmare comes to mind. Ramsey, who owns a restaurant on W. 54th Street, was summoned to take his reality show, Ramsey’s Kitchen Nightmares over to a nearby eatery to see if he could assist this “bad dream.”
After divulging the problems to the staff, Ramsey brought in award-winning and world renowned Indian chef Vikas Khanna to help owner Mohammad Islam restore and remake the former Dillon’s Restaurant. As a result Khanna was hired as the on going consulting chef to the new Purnima (Full Moon) which may now become one of the top Indian restaurants in New York City, and something to howl about.
Located in midtown at 245 West 54th Street, Vikas Khanna offers a blend of both modern and traditional Indian cuisines that feature the addition of fresh fruits and nuts. Menus are presented in colorful fabric envelopes decorated with hand embroidered Indian motifs and it’s not uncommon to be served an amuse bouche such as one of feathery light puff pastry sprinkled with onion seeds that is accompanied by a fragrant tomato garlic chutney dipping sauce.
Having an allergy toward cumin and not a fan of spicy foods, I wondered if it were possible to enjoy the cuisine. As it turns out chef Khanna has full control of both the sauces and curry. Curry is not a spice itself, but a combination of spices that usually contain cumin. Since he creates his own curry, he can eliminate a spice that you may be sensitive towards. The same goes for the most commonly used Masala sauce.
Let’s break out the bread with the Naam Purnima stuffed with raisins and coconut. Then it’s on to Khanna’s seasonal tasting menu as well as a few extra taste sensations.
A Fresh Harvest Salad of Mesclun Greens, apples, cilantro, and vinaigrette is served in a Papardum bowl, made from lentils and pepper. There may not be a more savory rice dish than the Kashmiri Pulao consisting of Basmati rice cooked with apple, mango, almond and coconut.
Lamb is always featured in Indian cuisine and the Adraki Lamb Chops is one of the chef’s perfect creations of this meat. It’s a rack of lamb soaked in ginger, honey and lemon juice, broiled in clay oven and served with blueberry chutney vs. the more common mint jelly. If a beef dish better suits your palate, try the Beef Mughlai (tender cubes of beef cooked with cashew-nut and almond based curry.)
Perhaps you would prefer a fresh “gilled” fish to the shellfish ilk. Fish Munia sports a fresh tilapia that is simmered in saffron and coconut curry. Khanna is careful to use just the correct amount of saffron so that it doesn’t give that “medicine” flavor.
Some of the desserts are both outstanding and unique. Mango soup with homemade mix berry sorbet is a palate cleanser. Think about this one: Tandoori pineapple soaked in cardamom and maple sugar with rose petal ice-cream. Chef Khanna even shared his childhood treat of a Grilled Fruit Cobbler with Spiced Sabayon.
If you want to savor more of the delicacies served at Purnima, why not try this recipe from Vikas Khanna. It’s one of the chef’s signature dishes, Stuffed Tandoori Chicken - chicken breasts stuffed with spinach and figs. A recipe for Garlic Naan Bread also follows.
Stuffed Tandoori Chicken
4 Boneless, skinless chicken breasts
4 tbsp. Sesame oil
½ cup Dried figs, chopped
¼ cup Raisins
1 tbsp. Saffron threads
1 tsp.Cumin seeds
1 Medium onion, finely chopped
1 lb. Fresh spinach, stemmed, washed, dried
2 tsp. Cayenne pepper
Salt to taste
2 tsp. Garlic, minced
2 tsp. Fresh ginger, minced
1 cup Tomato sauce
½ cup Heavy cream
1. Place chicken between 2 sheets of waxed paper; use mallet to pound to an even thickness.
2. Heat 2 tbsp. oil in large frying pan. Add figs, raisins and saffron; stir-fry two minutes. Add cumin seeds and onion; cook until onions begin to soften three to four minutes. Add spinach; cook until wilted. Turn off heat, add cayenne pepper and salt; set aside to cool slightly.
3. Spread spinach mixture over underside of each breast. Roll into secure packages; seal with wooden picks. Arrange in baking pan.
4. Heat remaining oil in same pan. Add garlic and ginger; cook until fragrant and soft, two to three minutes. Add tomato sauce and heavy cream; cook until thick.
5. Pour tomato sauce over chicken breasts. Bake at 350F for 45 minutes, basting several times with sauce. Serve hot, with chicken bias sliced.
Garlic Naan Bread - Makes 6 Naans
1 tsp. active dry yeast
1 tsp. sugar
2½ tbsp. yogurt
¾ cup lukewarm water
2 cups all purpose flour, plus extra for rolling
½ tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. salt
2 tbsp. vegetable oil
6 cloves garlic, finely crushed
2 tbsp. cilantro, finely chopped
1 tsp. clarified butter
In a medium bowl, combine the yeast and sugar. Add the yogurt, and water and stir well. Let it rest until it is foamy - about five minutes.
Sift together the flour, baking powder and salt into a large bowl. Make a well in the center of the flour and pour the yeast mixture and vegetable oil in the center.
Mix together with your fingers until a smooth dough forms, working in a small amount of additional flour as needed. Knead for about three minutes.
Oil a small bowl with 1 teaspoon vegetable oil. Place the dough into the bowl, turning it in order to coat it. Let it rest until it is double in size - about 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 500F.
Divide the dough into six balls and gently roll into six circles on a lightly floured surface. Top it with garlic and cilantro.
Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Place two naans at a time and bake until just golden brown and puffed—about four to five minutes.
Brush with clarified butter and serve immediately.