GOURMET PASSAGE TO JAMAICAText and Photography by PamelaAnn Campbell
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Montego Bay, Jamaica: Thanks to the legacy of Jamaica's rich cultural background, culinary tributes appear on menus everywhere on the island. Centuries ago they came from Spain, England, Africa, India and China to the land of the Taino Indians bringing age-old cooking secrets that are now enjoyed as a "taste of Jamaica."
Recently crowned with the coveted title, the AAA Five Diamond Award, The Ritz-Carlton Rose Hall in Montego Bay, is a luxury resort where perfection extends to new culinary heights at every opportunity |
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under the direction of executive chef, Dennis McIntosh.
Even though he was only seven years old when his parents immigrated to England, McIntosh's love for Jamaica never ceased. But an even greater love affair with cooking had started in his formative years when, as the last son, he said it was traditional to assist with the cooking and baking at home.
Like chef McIntosh, I believe one of the best ways to enjoy a visit to Jamaica is to introduce your palate to local foods, many of which have some history to them. The ackee (part of the national dish called ackee and saltfish) was brought by the British from Africa to feed slaves working on the sugar plantations. This specialty is very tasty with the right ingredients and that is why we have the recipe below for you, compliments of the chef. Breadfruit, another staple, was introduced by Captain Bligh in 1793 from Tahiti; it is delicious fried, roasted or boiled, and is an excellent source of vitamins A, B and C.
A winning recipe naturally includes allspice, cinnamon and nutmeg among its ingredients, but generous use of ginger, garlic and hot peppers are very important too. Another world-famous Jamaican 'delicacy' is jerk pork or chicken, both of which are served at the resort's restaurants. You might just capture the flavor of this chef's favorite at home if you'd like to try his marinade for jerk chicken. (See below)
The chef's favorite dish is escoveitch fish, which he says is not often found outside of Jamaica. He likes to cook tilapia, sea bass, lobster and shrimp. In addition to seafood, chicken, pork, goat, beef and duck appear on the menus accentuated by some of the most imaginative pairings I've ever seen in restaurants around the world. The basis for McIntosh's recipes is that most of them reflect an "island root or twist" as he terms it. At The Ritz-Carlton Rose Hall multiple venues for dining abound with an extensive selection of local favorites and exotic fare. If you enjoy listening to the sounds of the sea, then dining outdoors at Mango's is wonderful for a taste of the Caribbean, while enjoying live evening entertainment. At Horizon's the spotlight is on international food with a Jamaican and Asian accent, while the elegant Jasmine's is popular for its "Jasian" specialties. They are located right beside one another and both accommodate seating preferences, indoor or outdoor.
Jasmine's is a gourmand's wish come true, especially with the neat concept that offers patrons two, three, four, five or six-course dinners. On the first occasion I would recommend the perfect duo of blue crab chopsticks with green apple and avocado and sugarcane speared Montego Bay shrimp fritter with star apple chili dipping sauce. The three-course-dinner can be your entry into more exotic fare such as the Caribbean lobster and tamarind spring roll with ginger Scotch Bonnet plum sauce. This succulent delicacy prepares your taste buds for Thai Tom Yam Kung spicy shrimp and straw mushroom broth and later on, banana leaf wrapped local snapper with island spices.
For chef McIntosh curry dishes rank among his favorites and the menu has three others besides the aforementioned Jamaican curry goat. If you are a curry lover, you will find these renditions utterly irresistible - Massaman beef, South East Asian curry Jamaican style, roasted duck and lychee curry with pad Thai noodles and jerk chicken with green curry and jasmine scented rice.
Green tea brulee with Valrhona chocolate sorbet and mango saffron coulis is as delicious as it is colorful, while coconut dumpling in a breadfruit jasmine dough is doubly delightful. And so is the ginger molasses spice cake with guava sorbet, while the white chocolate cheesecake with star anise scented blueberry compote and honey is rich and glorious. Robbin mango frozen parfait on devil's food cake and dark rum sauce is the oh-so-good Jamaican treat everyone should indulge in.
Simply put, McIntosh is a chef with a mission. "I always try to showcase the island to the international market," he says. Chef McIntosh's Recipes ACKEE & SALTFISH
2 oz. Ackee Saute onion, peppers, scallion and ackee in a saute pan. Season with salt and pepper. Add salt fish and tomatoes. Serves one. JERK CHICKEN
3lb. Chicken Combine all the ingredients in a blender and marinate meat.
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From casual to chic and sophisticated, Mango's, Horizon's and Jasmine's flourish with tropical flair and culinary artistry in true Ritz-Carlton style. McIntosh, the Jamaican born and European trained master of creative cuisine exhibits a strong dedication to preserving Jamaica's ethnic dishes with a special Asian touch.
Following his education in Culinary Artistry at Henley College in Coventry, he interned at Jagerhof Hotel in Germany and then launched his full-time career at exclusive resorts in the Caribbean, Europe and the United States.
McIntosh is happy to be home in his beloved birthplace where his cooking style intentionally evokes images of Jamaica. "Using the freshest herbs and spices, I can adapt the cooking process with anything available in the marketplace," says McIntosh. And what a marketplace this is! Everything grows in abundance and is readily available. "I can take a run to the market and come back with fresh ingredients to create something for the kitchen," he points out. The not so big secret to preserving the flavor is to utilize "fresh in season" produce he reasons.
Does chef McIntosh have a favorite type of food? Yes he does. "I like working with any kind of seafood because it can be caught fresh in the morning and I can be cooking it for you within a short time," he declares.
The outdoor ambiance is very appealing, especially during the evening, and if it happens to rain (it's usually a drizzle) you can always move indoors. At Jasmine's chef McIntosh dazzles dinner guests with 14 classic favorites infused with Asian ingredients and flavors. These are gourmet recipes that I fondly refer to as "McIntosh originals" especially with the stylish titles appearing on the menu. No wonder Jasmine's is among the prestigious Conde Nast Traveler's Top 100 New Restaurants Hot List!
As your palate warms to the exciting new temptations, it's time to try young coconut and chicken soup with fresh coconut cream and galangal - it's actually served in a real coconut shell 'bowl' but besides looking pretty, it also tastes sensational. Afterwards, you'll be ready for traditional Jamaican curry braised goat with yam, dumplings and wilted callaloo, followed by fever grass speared prawns atop breadfruit and drizzled with sweet and sour glaze.
Although the servings are not entree-sized portions I find it my limit is three or four courses, but if your appetite is up to the challenge then by all means savor every moment and keep eating. The dessert menu is a lineup of five tempting choices, but at least you only have to select one at each meal. Five visits to Jasmine's and you will taste them all!
For Chef McIntosh, his passion goes beyond the awards he has received, and if he has his way he just might be Jamaica's culinary ambassador to the world as he keeps the black, green and gold flag flying high.