TEMPTATION GRAZText and Photography by PamelaAnn Campbell |
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Graz, Austria: A taste of Graz is the tempting answer to every food lover’s dream. Located in the province of Styria, where regional specialties have a gastronomic reputation of excellence beyond Knodel (dumplings) and Strudel, Graz restaurants must be explored for culinary delights.
The Landhaus-Keller restaurant on Schmiedgasse sits right in the heart of Graz, a Renaissance landmark of culinary distinction. Originally a private residence in the 16th century, it became a pub in 1867 and by 1889 it was the seat of the provincial government of Styria. Today the restaurant is proud to promote their cooking style. In other words, or rather, in their words, “Discover and enjoy the riches of all types of Styrian cooking at Landhaus-Keller.” Their signature dishes star a lineup of beef that can make your taste buds spin when you set eyes on the large variety of fare on the menu. These sensational meals originate with meat from Alpine oxen prepared from Styrian recipes. The overall focus is on traditional, regional home cooking, with fresh produce coming directly from the farmers. There is year-round dining in seven rooms and during the summer months guests can eat in the beauty of the outdoor garden. Doris and Gunther Huber tempt their guests with a very extensive menu. Seven appetizers, four choices of soup and assorted salads (by season) are offered to guests. Most of the appetizers are available in large or small portions. Oxtail in aspic, mousse of smoked trout, rolled beef carpaccio and black pudding-strudel are tempting, but so are the soups. |
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Rindsbouillon is beef broth with a choice of sliced herb pancakes, fried buckwheat dumpling or liver dumpling. My guest tries the broth with the sliced pancakes (I’ve had it before and it’s delicious), while I opt for the schilcherschaumsuppe: Schilcher wine soup served with puff pastry sticks. There is also another of my favorites, Kurbiscremesuppe (pumpkin soup) with pumpkin seed oil and breadcrumbs. Graz is located in the province popular for Schilcher wine and lots of beer. A pillared cellar houses 12,000 bottles of wine, predominantly from the Styrian region, so that food pairings are always possible for every palette. If you’re the designated driver, there’s always my favorite “refreshment” – Champagne and Hollerbluten, just ask your waiter to ask the bartender to “go light” on the Champagne. A feast of entrees includes main dishes, boiled beef dishes, vegetarian, venison and fish. The main dishes feature sirloin steak, chicken breast, filet of beef, Styrian beef cutlet, filet of pork, lamb chops and filet tips of beef and pork. The beef specialties are served in a soup terrine with sauteed potatoes, chive sauce and apple sauce with horseradish, based on selected beef parts. The menus are written in German with clear English explanations. Vegetarians can choose from Gemuselasagne: green noodle leaves, stuffed with fresh vegetables and served with tomato sauce, and Polentaschnitte: tart of yellow polenta and green leek served on a clear red pepper sauce. For game lovers there’s wildragout: a game stew in cranberry red wine sauce and hirschruckensteak: tender saddle of deer in red wine sauce. I decide to try the wolfbarsch: whole Branzino (deboned) stuffed with leaf spinach, and served with potatoes and rosemary, while my guest ate the Hendlbrust: stuffed chicken breast with Styrian cheese on clear tomato sauce, accompanied by Polenta souffle with bacon.
Since all the desserts look so enticing, I decide to order a sample plate of all of them – apple strudel, warm sweet cheese dumplings with apricot sauce, Polenta custard with jellied egriots, chocolate mousse tartlette with sugared grapes and iced nougat parfait with stewed berries.
There are 29 different wines available by the bottle, but 15 varieties are also available by the glass. The whites range from Euro18.17 for Welschriesling Polz to Pinot Grigio Pighin at Euro23.26. Reds include Zweigelt Ried Hegl Furst Bismarck (Euro17.44) Blaufrankisch Iby (Euro18.53) and Rioja Marques de Grinon (Euro21.80).
The entrees featured six items on the menu. Antipasti, figs in Portwine with feta, pickled sardines, grilled prawns, gambas al ajillo and Chanterelles ravioli with sage butter and parmesan.
The dessert list featured four temptations: lemon sorbet, crème caramel, almond or pumpkin nut parfait and date cake filled with Grand Marnier foam. If you prefer to skip the sweet stuff, there is Mediterranean cheese. The Romantik ParkHotel where I stayed serves a great breakfast and the Stainzerbauer is a very popular lunch and dinner restaurant, often described as “rustic with excellent home cooking.”
It’s hardly possible to visit them all, which means a return to Graz is a must next time I’m in Austria. See you there!
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There are desserts and cheese plates to finish the meal. The Kaseturm is a cheese tower with a selection of Austrian cheese, while the Kasekurbe is cheese crank – you make cheese flowers with Swiss cheese. Both are served with walnut and farmer’s bread and pumpkin seeds.
Another great restaurant is Mayers offering a panoramic view high above the Mur. Ultra-modern and chic, the Mediterranean restaurant is the showpiece designed by popular architect, Gunter Domenig.
Two soups and salads made it relatively easy to make a decision - the edible chestnut cream soup with truffle oil and the ruccola salad with parmesan cheese.
Nine main dishes included king prawns, trout, salmon, lamb, duck breast, pork and beef steak. Chef Soli’s menu selection is quite challenging, but eventually it was this trio that finally wins the vote at our table - Sepie with saffron sauce on black noodles, Jack salmon filets in Pinot Grigio with carrots and basil gnocchi and duckbreast with celery stew, blackberries and corncake.
Graz is a city of extraordinary dining with restaurants featuring International, Styrian, Ethnic and Vegetarian cuisine. Casual meals are best enjoyed at Beisln - typical Austrian taverns or at cafes - traditional Viennese-style coffee houses.