SCINTILLATING FLAVORS OF BRAZILIAN CUISINE

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil: Memories are made of Brazil - of the culinary type, that is. Who could forget the Brazilian way of titillating our palettes with exciting flavors when we visit this vast South American nation (the fifth largest country in the world) that once boasted an empire?

My guess is that most of us will treasure the lingering smell, taste and texture of the foods that have become classic Brazilian cuisine.

Inspired by the indigenous native Indian population, African slaves, Portuguese colonizers and later immigrants from England, Spain, Italy and Germany, Brazilians cook and eat with flavorful zest.

When Portuguese explorers claimed Brazil in 1502, the first inhabitants they encountered were a tribe of Tamoya Indians. From 1550 to 1888 some three-and-a-half million slaves were shipped from Africa to work on the sugar and coffee plantations, but they also became household help.

It is no small wonder that Brazilian recipes now explode with a mosaic of culinary delights that are clearly an expression of integrated styles belonging to the Europeans, Indians and Africans. You will never tire of restaurant dining. Think of it as an introduction to Brazil and her people, all 172 million of them!

Lunch at Couve Flor (Rua Pacheco Ledo, 724, Jardin Botanico (Tel: 021-239-2191) is a buffet lover's dream introduction to local cookery. Sometimes there is an English version of what you are eating, but at times the menu is beyond translation, so just eat and enjoy. Chuca Com Ovos (an egg dish), Rabada c/Agriao (oxtail with watercress), Torta de Alho Poro (garlic pie), Lazanha de presunto (ham lasagna), Trouxinha de Repolho c/Frengo (cabbage roll), Quibe de Bandaja (meat croquettes) and Risole de Palmito (heart of palm ravioli).

A sweet lover's delight, these will be doubly difficult to resist - consider them samples and eat as much as possible to decide which ones will become your favorites - Pave Alemao (a German layered tart), Quindao (a delicious cake made with sugar, coconut and egg yolks), Brigadeirao (Brazil's famous Chocolate Kisses made with condensed milk), Bolo de Rolo de Goiaba (chocolate cake with caramel and guava filling) and Rocambole de Laranja (Swissroll with orange filling). Fill your plate to your heart's content - you pay by weight. Coconut milk is served with the shell intact, you sip it through a straw and afterwards you may request it chopped in half to sample the tasty, soft, white flesh that is found inside.

Garota da Urca (Av. Joao Luiz Alves, 56, Urca (Tel: 541-8585/541-5040) is a bar and restaurant that serves Brazilian food with strong Spanish and Portuguese flavors. This is a busy place with great atmosphere. The self-serve bar includes seafood, salads, vegetables and stews of every type, plus 34 different cuts of meat. The waiters' outfits rival the huge slabs of meat they will slice for you at the table as well as those tempting caipirinhas that turn up everywhere!

If you crave breathtaking views, a fabulous spot for lunch is the Sheraton Rio's Cafe Mirador. What can we say about their traditional rendition of the feijoada and a Brazilian buffet that looks as great as it tastes? You'll love it! If you're in town, don't miss their Seafood Festival. The Sheraton Rio Hotel & Towers is located at Avenida Neimeyer, 121. (Tel: 21-274-1122) www.sheraton-rio.com

Garota de Ipanema (Rua Vinicius de Moraes, 49A (Tel: 523-3787) is a busy, busy restaurant until it closes at 3 a.m. Locals and tourists crowd this popular landmark that used to be called Veloso - until the legendary story goes that Antionio Carlos "Tom" Jobim and Viniciums de Moraes wrote the famous "Girl from Ipanema" song on a napkin over a beer at the bar.

A casual seating arrangement and simple menus hardly prepare patrons for a delightful evening of sampling Brazilian cuisine with the lots of cariocas (residents of Rio). Caipirinhas go well with the fondue meals - just remember you must have a hearty appetite - the portions are huge, but it's all freshly prepared (other traditional foods are on the menu too). Caps and T-shirts with a partial score of the "Girl from Ipanema" are great souvenirs to take back home and prove that you were there!

Another delightful lunch venue is located at the Museu da Republica/Palacio do Catete (Museum of the Republic - Rua do Catete 153 (Tel:285-6350/556-6434/558-0969) where the restaurant overlooks the Catete Palace gardens.

The Portuguese version of the menu is a sassy combination of dishes that you may or may not be able to decipher (with some help from the waiters), but it makes the dining experience so very interesting.

For appetizers you'll want to try Rolinho de Inverno (parma e abobrinha em fatias finas, enroladas com cream cheese ao molho de ervas) is a winter roll with cream cheese in a green pea sauce, very intriguing and very tasty for such an unusual combination. I discovered the Escalope Joanne D'arc (bifinhos de mignon ao molho porto/madeira, com panquecas de camembert) is filet mignon in a wine sauce with a Camembert cheese crepe, another delicious creation.

For the vegetarian palette you can try the sushi bar with sake or from the regular menu there's Carne? To Fora! (berinjela gratinada recheada com risoto dela mesma, champignon e espinafre), a mushroom and spinach stuffed eggplant topped with cheese).

I adored the 'sobremesas' - desserts. The delectable Quiche de queijo de Minas com calda quente de Goiaba was melt-in-your-mouth delicious tart with a jellied guava center, while the Crepe de maracuja com sorvete was ice cream with a difference - passionfruit crepe with ice cream.

Just by chance we stopped by the Confeitaria Colombo (Rua Goncalves Dias, 32 (Tel: 232-2300) for a quick cup of tea, only to discover another of Rio's 'treasures' amid the bustling city's shopping district. Buffet and a la carte menus are available, while on Saturdays you can try the traditional feijoada.

I wish we had more time to savor the beauty of this grand tea salon. The minute you walk into this century old establishment, it's quite easy to conjure up images of a bygone era when it was filled with the 'creme de la creme' of Rio. The lower level features ceiling high glass cases filled with a variety of stunning collectibles. (I wonder who has the joyous task of cleaning these objects from time to time?)

Spend enough time to savor the beautiful surroundings, the mirrored walls, the jacaranda wood furniture, the Italian marble counters and the impeccably groomed waiters. The second floor is also decorated in the art nouveau style and it's a lovely view from the top looking down at the scene below.