FLORIDA'S BEACHES OF SOUTH WALTON EAT BEAT FOR FOOD LOVERS

Story and Photos by Pamela A. Campbell

If you ever dream of finding hidden treasure in Florida, don't give up. Especially in the 26-mile area that encompasses The Beaches of South Walton, its 19 small beach communities overflowing with unspoiled nature and some of the nicest people I have met in this state.

What I am about to reveal to you is a "Who's Who of Restaurants" where the chefs rate a perfect 10 in my books for creativity, 4x-Florida_EatBeat1.jpg (23137 bytes) taste and presentation.

From five-star dining to casual lunch encounters The Beaches of South Walton restaurants cater to food lovers of every persuasion. The close proximity of freshwater lakes and rivers flowing into the Gulf of Mexico yield an abundance of fresh catches. The cuisine ranges from fresh seafood to a taste of the Caribbean and Cajun, and of course good old down-home Southern cooking.

CRIOLLA'S

Down on historic Grayton Beach is CRIOLLA'S (www.criollas.com) - this is where executive chef and owner Johnny Earles, together with his accommodating staff, combine the best of Contemporary Creole Caribbean cuisine to satisfy their guests. The menu listings are as exotic sounding as the flavors I was tempted to try.

For appetizers, start with Puerto Rican Tapas. These are twice fried plantains served with three different toppings - seared tuna dip with chile and cilantro aioli, oven dried mango, sweet onion and fresh goat cheese and Calabaza Escabeche. The award-winning chef explains that calabaza is a Caribbean pumpkin which is pickled in a traditional spiced Caribbean fashion.

For the more adventurous tastebuds, maybe Adobe Style Jumbo Lump Crabcake will make a fan out of you. Made with Aji Amarillo mole, terra cotta creme fraiche and a pipian of local goat cheese, it is complemented well by a glass of Chartron La Fleur '96 Sauvignon Blanc.

This is gourmet cuisine at its best, and it's no wonder that CRIOLLA'S continues to win Florida's Golden Spoon year after year as one of Florida's Top Twenty Restaurants. "The incomparable chef-owner Johnny Earles continues to stun the locals... with his always innovative imagination, utilizing with great skill the freshness from the land and sea...." reports Florida Trend Magazine.

4x-Florida_EatBeat2.jpg (17128 bytes) Main course selections are a gastronomical delight, with choices like Plantain Wrapped Grouper with Lobster Polenta stuffed Poblano. This flavorful rendition of Primo Yellowedge Grouper wrapped with Platano Amarillo, pan roasted and served on Quetzal Pinto Salsa with a roasted Poblano stuffed with Baby Lobster Polenta, finished with Guava-Tamarindo Glaze and grilled Mango Salsa was a definite winner with me. The suggested wine (every dish has one) was Dagueneau '94 Pouilly Fume Buisson Menard, but there is an extensive wine list if you would like to try something different.

Chivato Crusted Number One Tuna is popular with tuna lovers. Pan seared Tuna with a crust of Fusano Olives, Almonds and Mexican fine herbs, served with Cinco Frijoles con Epazote and a Mahogany Rice of sundried yellow Tomatoes, grilled Corn and Cortez Chiles, finished with citrusy Tomatillo Salsa can appease any appetite - especially when it's accompanied by Pellegrini 97 Gerwurztraminer.

The generous portions might have some effect on your waistline, but the desserts are an absolute must because these are all made from scratch. The Banana-Cocoa Tres Leches Cake is a local favorite, but Aunt Irma's Banana & Pecan Beignets run a close second.

BUD & ALLEY'S

Over in Seaside, Bud & Alleys's (850-231-5900) is billed as a "friendly meeting place for locals and visitors alike." Owners Scott Witcoski and Dave Rauschkolb named the restaurant after a dog and a cat - maybe that is why the atmosphere here is so casual and unpretentious.

The owners' commitment to providing a tasty menu relies heavily on in-season produce and seafood. Their renditions run the4x-Florida_EatBeat3.jpg (16921 bytes) gamut of regional fare - American South, Louisiana Bayou, Mediterranean, the Basque and Tuscany. It's not uncommon to identify a familiar dish reminiscent of Spain, Portugal, Italy, Central America and the Caribbean, sometimes it's even from California, New Mexico or Miami. That's because Scott and Dave comb these areas to seek out the culinary treasures of these places for their patrons.

Lunch at this award-winning restaurant is a welcome respite especially if you're shopping in Seaside. I particularly enjoyed the Sautéed Fish of the Day (Grouper) with Roast Garlic, Fresh Herb Aioli and Roasted New Potatoes.

Mike's House Made Italian Sausage Sandwich with Roast Peppers and Onion and Marinara Sauce is another popular lunch selection, as are Boiled Gulf Shrimp and Mixed Field Greens with Balsamic Vinaigrette and Shaved Pecorino.

Bud & Alley's are opened for lunch and dinner daily except Tuesdays, and dinner reservations are recommended.

THIRTY-A

If you like martinis, great food and a funky setting, Seagrove Beach's THIRTY-A (850-231-2166) has got to be on your dining agenda.

For the Martini connoisseur this restaurant lists 19 types with intriguing names lie The Bikini Tini, The Silver Bullet, Seagrove Beach Breeze and my favorite, The French Kiss (Stoli Oranj Vodka, splash of Lillet and Lemon Twist).

The wine cellar has an impressive list of over 200 wines available from around the world.

Appetizers here are called "Starters" and you have eight choices with some of the most eclectic names. The Roasted Acorn Squash Soup with Spiced Rum Creme Chantilly was new, but delightfully different. Grilled Georgia Quail with Creamy Grits and Sage Fritters were a hit, especially the grits, voted "the best grits in town" by our table.

Always a favorite, my Red Snapper satisfied my taste buds totally. Baked with Red Peppers, Zucchini and Goat Cheese Crust, Baby Artichokes and Saffron Vin Blanc was a great combination. My tablemates heaped praise on their choices too, prompting plans for a return visit to try the impossible "everything on the menu."

These would include Seared Tea Smoked Duck Breast with stir-fried Duck Confit Salad, Porcini Mashed Potatoes and Pomegranate Molasses Natural Jus, and Sauteed Gulf Shrimp, Tuscan Soft Polenta, Capicola Braised Leeks and grilled Portobello with White Truffle Essence.

This is a restaurant that groups would find extremely pleasant since the seating arrangements are spacious enough to accommodate guests comfortably and the noise level is pretty low.

POMPANO JOE'S

This is a seafood house that calls itself "A Neighborhood Beach Place in South Walton."

I enjoyed the open-air atmosphere of POMPANO JOE'S (850-837-2224) and the fact that it sits right on the beach in South Walton. It's a great spot for casual dining (with or without kids). I recommend you request a table near the windows as there's nothing like enjoying a great meal with a view of the Gulf.

The menu includes a huge selection of Appetizers, Soups & Salads, Seafood Sandwiches, Galley Specialties, Seafood Selections, Joe's Favorites, Pasta!Pasta!Pasta, From the Islands, Beer Selections, Drinks and a Children's Menu.

Not only is there unlimited variety, but there are some names on the menu that will stir your imagination. How about Reggae Rolls or Voodoo Shrimp or Swordfish Calypso?

The Reggae Rolls are jerk seasoned chicken, black beans, corn, tomatoes and peppers stuffed in flour tortillas, deep fried and served with mango chutney and pico de gallo salsa. Would you guess that the Voodoo Shrimp are actually grilled and served with PJ's own tangy barbecue sauce and French bread? And the enticing Swordfish Calypso is actually blackened, grilled and served on a bed of shredded jicama and topped with shrimp and corn salsa.

The Fried Blue Crab Claws and PJ's Crawfish Tails are a "must" for the locals, and so I was a "local" for a day! I couldn't resist the Seafood Sandwich selection, popularly offered as "From the Sea to the Bun" - the Crab Cake served with tomato jalapeno tartar sauce, accompanied by lettuce, tomato, pineapple coleslaw and fries. The tangy flavor and the hot and spicy sauce really blended well together.

If you feel you've over indulged, a brisk walk on the beach should get you back in shape for more dining opportunities around town. Take your camera along, the beach scenery will always demand "one more shot."

During the summer you can actually enjoy your meals outdoors when themed parties with live entertainment move on to the beach.

FRANGISTA SEAFOOD & SPIRITS

Located in Destin, Frangista (850-837-2515) is a fine restaurant with a variety of cuisine. From elegant Mediterranean and Florida Coastal to Asian and Fusion cuisine, the chefs work wonders with the appetizers, soups, salads, entrees and Frangista's Old Favorites.

The dining area is very spacious, yet Frangista's hospitality would appeal to a couple or a party of six or twelve. There is soft music in the background, mellow enough to permit an easy flow of conversation among guests.

4x-Florida_EatBeat4.jpg (17956 bytes)This was another opportunity to try different flavors by ordering several appetizers and sampling a bit of everything. With my penchant for seafood I ordered Barbecued Scallops, but sampled the Portobello Mushroom Napoleon. The crisp fried Louisiana Crawfish and jumbo lump Crabmeat Cocktail Hazel were also extremely good.

Every entree beckoned my taste buds, but of course I could only have one, so I decided it would be the Creole Mustard Cedar-Planked Salmon. This fresh fillet of salmon baked on a cedar plank with Creole mustard, sautéed shrimp and a duo of sauces was such a fine meal, I relished it and had to pass on the dessert menu.

I've already planned my selections for the next visit or two to include the Shrimp Chootawhatchee - eight Southern-fried jumbo shrimp, served with French petite green beans and rice pilaf, and Tempura Fried Lobster Tail. This sounds absolutely irresistible - Bahamian warm-water lobster tail with Mediterranean vegetables and rice, French green beans and lemon butter.

Bon appetit!

For more information, please view the South Walton Tourist Development Council web site at www.beachesofsouthwalton.com