JAMAICA'S MORE THAN THE LAND OF JERK

Story and Photos by
  Pamela A. Campbell

Jamaicans regale in comparing their country to other places in the world. In size, it's Connecticut. In population, it's British Columbia. But they'll come right out and tell you nothing compares to the island fare their chefs serve from one end of Jamaica to the other. And judging from the kaleidoscope of dishes served up during my recent island visit, they certainly deserve an outstanding ovation!

Back in 1494 when Christopher Columbus first arrived here, he encountered the original inhabitants, the Arawak Indians, who named the island Jamaica, in their language "Land of Wood and Water." Soon the Spanish and English came, followed by African slaves and later indentured laborers from India and China. Others soon arrived from Scotland, France, Portugal and Lebanon, and so Jamaica's motto reflects this large diversity, "Out of Many, One People."

Today, visitors have their appetites whetted with island creations that are sumptuously tasty as they are beautifully prepared and served. The island favorites appear in many versions in various cookbooks, so I would recommend trying these dishes in different locations even if you have ordered them before.

MORGAN'S HARBOUR HOTEL & BEACH CLUB, PORT ROYAL (876) 967-8030

A fitting introduction to Jamaican cuisine came on the evening of our arrival in Kingston. Dining outdoors at Morgan's Harbour Hotel in Port Royal was the onset of relaxation, island style. Centuries ago this was known as the "wickedest" and richest city in the world. Those were the days when the pirate Capt. Morgan ruled the sea and Lord Nelson commanded the British Fleet.

Overlooking the marina and Kingston Harbour (the seventh largest natural harbour in the world) and the Blue Mountains towering in the distance, it's the ideal setting for visitors to enjoy a pre-dinner Red Stripe beer, Rum and Coke or the popular local soft drink, Ting.

Our menu featured Red Bean Soup followed by Steamed Kingfish on a fluffy bed of rice with carrots, ochro and callaloo, a leafy vegetable similar to spinach, but in my opinion, much tastier. Coconut cake was just sweet enough to end the meal with tea and Jamaican coffee, of course.

ALEXANDER'S RESTAURANT, THE COURTLEIGH HOTEL & SUITES, KINGSTON www.courtleigh.com  

Breakfast at this centrally located hotel, 25 minutes from the Norman Manley International Airport, was always pleasant after a refreshing night's rest in our comfortable suite. This provided a welcome opportunity to try all the locally grown papaya, pineapple, banana, watermelon, grapefruit and orange. "Fresh" takes on a whole new meaning once you sample these tasty fruits. Of course Jamaican coffee is not to be missed, but if you prefer tea, there are lots available to accompany a variety of croissants, bagels, muffins, toast and regular menu offerings. A great bonus here were the attentive, accommodating and helpful (for directions) staff.

BOON HALL OASIS, KINGSTON 942-3064 (Jamaica)

Located in the parish of St. Andrew, Boon Hall Oasis invites company to come for the river, the mountains and the lush vegetation. But it's the food above all that would lure me back any day.

When you are seated for lunch, get ready for a "taste of Jamaica" from Lorna and Marcia. But until these ladies spin their culinary wands, there's enough time to enjoy a stroll in the gardens, sit on a bench by the river or soak your feet in the cool waters. Or just enjoy the cool Caribbean breeze and listen to the birds warbling nearby among the tropical trees.

Marvin, our waiter, kept us happily supplied with the ever-popular Red Stripe Beer, but gaining momentum was the cool, refreshing drinks that were smooth and tasty and came in pretty pastel colors - Fruit Punch, Guava and Pineapple Juice and my favorite, Orange Passion.

But it was our luncheon feast that satisfied our eyes as well as our stomachs. Imagine piping hot Charcoal Grilled Barbecue Chicken, Escoveitched Fish (Snapper Fillets) - tasty and irresistible, and the incomparable Ackee and Saltfish (Cod), for starters. For years I've heard about this popular national dish of Jamaica but it took my visit to Boon Hall to become a fan.

The ackee is a local fruit originally from Africa that must ripen and burst open on its own (or else it is poisonous) - sauteed with codfish and onions and peppers, it has the color and texture of scrambled eggs. This is an absolute "must" for every visitor to Jamaica, but eat as much as you like there, because the canned version can never duplicate the freshly cooked dish.

Equally appealing were the side dishes of Roasted Breadfruit, Fried Ripe Plantain, Gungo Peas and Rice, Tossed Salad and Festivals (made with cornmeal, flour and sugar and another newfound favorite of mine).

Dessert was Sweet Potato Pudding. Baked in the traditional manner on a coal stove, heated from above and below, the combination of ingredients result in a rich, flavorful pie (sweet potato, sugar, almond, cinnamon, nutmeg, coconut, salt and rum water). The dark slices are served with a contrasting pink hibiscus, a truly tropical taste touch!

TERRA NOVA HOTEL, KINGSTON www.cariboutpost.com/terra_nova 

If you leave Jamaica without tasting Smoked Marlin, you would be missing one of the best offerings from the sea. This is a 'must have' if you insist on enjoying seafood, which means kudos to the chef at Terra Nova!

This dining room is housed in an imposing mansion that caters to groups as well as couples or singles, with soft music in the background.

After we finished our Pumpkin Soup with Garlic Croutons (smooth and creamy and utterly delicious), our entrees were brought in covered dishes and opened in unison by our waiters - a very nice touch to the meal. The Breast of Chicken with Sour Cream added an international flavor, accompanied by Baked Potatoes and Garden Vegetables.

Dessert was an unpretentious fruit salad, followed by coffee and tea.

STRAWBERRY HILL AVEDA CONCEPT SPA, BLUE MOUNTAINS www.islandlife.com 

Never mind the mild trepidation that overcomes your soul at the mention of the word 'spa' or the thought of self-deprivation at mealtime, one look at Strawberry Hill and you'll be sorry you weren't staying forever. I know I was, and I know it will be irresistible the next time I'm in Jamaica.

Sit back and relax the 30-minute drive from Kingston to Irish Town along the winding mountain roads, it's just the beginning of your connection with nature, and there's lots of it at Strawberry Hill, 50 acres in total.

I am in the foothills of Jamaica's vast Blue Mountains, high above it all, at 3,100 feet, marveling at the sheer beauty of the abundance of nature. A stone pathway leads guests through a maze of crotons, palms and ferns to the 12 nineteenth Century villas and spa.

Beyond the buildings it's the scenery that grab my attention. Three wooden chairs beckon invitingly on a somewhat cloudy day for us to sit and watch the clouds rolling idly by, the mountain mist swirling in the distance, pausing briefly for a pastoral view of St. Marks Anglican Church, the sole white building nestled by surrounding greenery.

But it's the "New Jamaican" cuisine that prompts this visit on an open-air verandah. Indoor dining rooms feature a breezy atmosphere (open doors) and one in particular displayed a creative wall of carved bamboo designs painted in white right up to the ceiling.

The menu is entitled "Lightfare & Spa Dining" but don't let that deter you, the choices are tempting. Jamaican Curry Pumpkin and Chef's Special Caesar Salad with Julienne of Pineapple and Jerked Chicken Breast sprinkled with Roast Ginger Chips are as local as you can get for starters.

The main course selections are varied and filling. I ordered a Curried Goat Roti with Mango Relish and an Avocado and Green Salad. My novice attempt at eating goat meat was quite impressive, the avocado and mango an innovative flavor introduction. Equally tempting was the Honey Glazed Jerked Chicken with Rice and Peas, Sweet Fried Plantain and Vegetables or the Cultural Pasta with Ackee, Calaloo and Pumpkin tossed in a Fresh Tomato Sauce. Assorted desserts are available daily, but I enjoyed a smooth rendition of Strawberry Cheescake that was rum flavored, or was that my imagination?

Don't leave Strawberry Hill without stealing at least a few minutes in their oversized (big enough for two) hammocks. Or lounge in the full-length armchair with armrests that extend to accommodate tired feet. Ahhh!

CAFE AUBERGINE, ST. ANN Moneague P.O. St. Ann Telephone: 973-0527

It sounds French, it looks French, but it isn't French.

Part owner Neville Anderson is a European trained chef who returned to Jamaica and converted this18th Century former tavern into a delightful establishment with a continental flare in July 1996.

Two hundred and fifty six years ago doesn't seem like such a long time ago, but it's way back then that the house was built. The gardens are still brimming over with ferns, the back yard is moss covered and Cafe Aubergine looks like a gingerbread house, cascading pink, white and red flowers (jasmine, hibiscus and bougainvillea) ornamenting the roof and back windows, and over the doorways. Limes, Seville oranges, ackees and custard apples are among the fruit trees on the property, but it's the large chimney and old brick oven that are prominently picture perfect. Rohan Anderson, our waiter, says they often cater to large parties of 10 or more by roasting or barbecuing half a cow or a suckling pig on a spit. The oven was once used to bake bread.

It's a contrast of sorts, a fusion of Caribbean and European cooking and decor. Inside, the latticed top walls rival the wrought iron window coverings that can hardly resist the greenery or the pink and white orchid peeking through the windows. On a bright and sunny day, the sun streams through making the white wooden chairs and tables look even more inviting.

I decide it's going to be a dining pleasure once I settle into the soft pastel surroundings, the puffy, candy-striped cushion covered chairs as soothing as the dried cloves and garlic hanging in bunches, and the honeycomb and ears of corn bedecking the rooms. Accompanied by soft music and a gentle breeze drifting in and out the open windows and doorways, we pore over the bilingual (French and English) menu. The drinks, apart from the wines, are definitely Jamaican. As usual, I partake of my favorite local drink, Ting.

When the gong goes, our waiter announces, "That means we're eating" and before long our orders appear on the table. My adventurous pal tries the Conch a la Vinaigrette au Citron (Conch in Lemon Vinaigrette) and I debate over the Crebes Farcis (Baked Crab with White Wine and Herbs) or Marlin Fume a la Sorbet L'Ananas (Smoked Marlin with Pineapple Sorbet). I succumb to the curiosity of the Baked Crab.Yummy!

If only selecting an entree was that simple! Chef Anderson's 22-year sojourn in European cuisine reveals his expertise in every morsel of my Linguine avec Les Moules a la Sauce au Vin (Linguine with Mussels in Wine Sauce). Rave reviews also extend to his Blancs de Poulet au Citron et aux Capres et Linguine (Sauteed Breast of Chicken in Lemon Caper Sauce with Linguine) Cotelettes d'Agneau Grillees a la Moutarde et Miel (Grilled Lamb Chops with Honey Mustard Sauce).

Too soon it's time to bid adieu as we depart for Ocho Rios, 25 minutes away.

EVITA'S, OCHO RIOS Telephone 876-974-2333

"The Best Little Pasta House in Jamaica" is Evita's trademark slogan, but it's also eligible for "Best Restaurant View" and "Best Hostess" in my book!

Eva Myers is the Venetian-born hostess whose vacations in Jamaica prompted her move from the United States. Built in 1860, the restaurant is a Mecca for patrons of fine dining. The view from the outdoor tables is delightful during the day, but by night it is truly spectacular. Definitely the place for a romantic dinner, this hillside location is the only restaurant where you can gaze at your loved one, the sea or Ocho Rios. It's fun for groups too, especially when vying for the seats with the 'best view.'

Let's start with the extensive Fresh Pasta menu featuring All Time Favorites, On A Lighter Note, With Seafood... and Gourmet "Extravaganze" - there is no limit as to Italian favorites here with lots of fresh seafood. Appetizers, Soups, Salads and Desserts are also served Italian-style, and they sound so much more classy as Antipasti, Minestre, Insalate and Dolci, don't they?

Look for the insert listing Evita's Most Popular Specials, Taste of Jamaica and New 'Stars' - the line-up can be as humorous as they are tempting. 'One Love' Gnocchi is Jamaican-Italian flour and potato dumplings tossed with Alfredo creamy white sauce, Calaloo and Jerk seasoning. Pasta 'Viagra' is another teaser on the menu - spinach fettuccine tossed with lobster, shrimp, fish, conch, mushrooms, spring peas, sauteed in olive oil, garlic and white wine with a touch of red pepper flakes.

The Granchi Parmigiano (Stuffed Crab Back) is a light appetizer that prepares my palate for the enticing Secondi (Entrees). This time around it's Scampi al Pomodoro for me (jumbo shrimp sauteed in garlic butter, white wine and fresh tomatoes, served with fresh market vegetables and herbed rice.

Let me warn you, it's not an easy task deciding which of the nine desserts will get your nod. Next time I'll leave room for two, but this time I had to be content with one, Flambe di Ananas con Gelato (fresh pineapple coupe with brown sugar flambe. The Tiramisu al la Eva (Eva's pick-me-up) sounds so good, I could just taste it. Maybe you can be tempted? It's cake soaked in rum and Expresso coffee, topped with zabaglione and cream cheese sauce, sprinkled with chocolate, Expresso and Tia Maria. Her web site is: www.fantasyisle.com

As the menu says, and Eva says, Mamma Mia!