MUSKOKA BY NATURE

Story & Photos by Pamela A. Campbell

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It's all in the stars. And according to Robin Tapley, 37, resident Muskoka naturalist for ClubLink Resorts Nature Trails Eco-Adventure program, everyone's a winner especially when it's an Astronomy Night "Tour The Night Sky"session at the Grandview Inn.

With the aid of state of the art Bushnell telescopes, binoculars and night vision equipment, we enter the fascinating world of astronomy by identifying the seasons constellations, star clusters, planets, distant galaxies and nebulas.

Stargazing is no longer just for lovers looking into each other's eyes, although not many of us will envy each other for this indulgence. Fun aside, the night skies of Muskoka present an ideal opportunity for viewing the stars in all their wondrous glory from Grandview's private observation area. But it's not just stars that Tapley has in his eyes. He is a virtual encyclopaedia of every plant, flower, species of birds and animals found in the area.

My encounter with Tapley has left an indelible mark on my newfound regard and love of nature. He started the eco-adventure program six years ago, a spin-off from his previous job in Northern Ontario when he collected data for the Ministry of Natural Resources about nesting sites. "It's my hobbies made into the program," he enthuses.

"We are the only resort in Canada that has a naturalist who lives and works at the hotel," says Tapley. "We not only run the program, but we participate in the naturalization of the property." Of course it's noteworthy that he grew up on the edge of Canada's world-famous Algonquin Park.

I've had the good fortune to experience both the 'past' and the 'present' Nature Boat Cruise conducted by Tapley in Grandview's (now discontinued) Spirit of Muskoka and the Zodiac, the type of craft used by the late Jacques Cousteau in his explorations.

My first cruise on Fairy Lake can only be described as a birdwatcher's dream,sKayakerResize.jpg (30138 bytes)a wildlife experience and welcome exposure to the area's native plant life. Armed with binoculars and Tapley's 'eagle eyes' we are treated to sightings of blue herons mallards, spotted sandpipers and a rare look at the indigenous species of black ducks, which our guide says are at risk of becoming extinct.

Nesting boxes are located along the nature trail, clearly marked by signs, indicative of the protective nature of the community in preserving its bird species. Signs declare, "We live here, no wake please" - a distinct statement about observing the very moderate speed limit of 10 km per hour. In this wildlife sanctuary marsh, the common cattails act as an excellent filtration system for the water.

I catch sight of a pile of sticks emerging from the water, a food cache for beavers that goes down three and a half feet (they work diligently to create a large food stash for the winter). In the summertime snapping turtles appear on the 4,000 ft. canal and like me, you may be lucky to spot rose-breasted, grosbeak orioles, or even mink and muskrat.

Tapley says the cruise can be as impressionable to tourists as well as locals, prompting the popular refrain, "I can't believe there is so much wild life here." But for Joyce from Saskatchewan it was the foliage that had the most appeal, while Elizabeth from Washington, a self-proclaimed nature lover, declared the trip "fantastic" while adding, "I hate to go home."

My journey aboard the Zodiac took me up to Tea Lake. This time around the cruise is somewhat scenic, with pickerel weeds (look for the purple flowers) and bullhead lilies with yellow flowers surfacing at intervals in the water.

3Loon.jpg (61593 bytes) As the Zodiac coasts up the lake, I am privileged to encounter a nesting loon and Tapley gently maneuvers the craft for a closer look at this rare sighting (with a view to recording her restful pose on film). I am forewarned that should our approach signal a disturbance to the mallard, we must leave immediately. Happily, our presence goes unnoticed and I take the opportunity to secure the prized photograph accompanying this article.

Moments after witnessing this rewarding scene I was in for another unexpected encounter with nature's beauty. 3MarshesFallsResize.jpg (37560 bytes) I stared almost unbelievably at the foaming waters of Marshes Falls, pouring uncontrollably over the huge rocks, tinted a vibrant tea color by the decomposing vegetation. Tapley says it's safe enough for swimming, and it surely looks as inviting as those waterfalls you see in Caribbean vacation brochures.

Another venue for owl prowls or excellent birdwatching is the Tree House, a short drive from Grandview Inn. Along the way I learn there are different habitats in the area - ponds, swamps and marshes.

Encounters vary from beavers to hawks to owls. There are moose tracks in the winter and deer in the spring, perhaps even sightings of a baby black bear. The snapping turtles bury their eggs under the sand and young offspring start to emerge in the Fall, the size of Canada's two-dollar coin, the Toonie. Unfortunately, raccoons and snakes dig into the nests and feed on them, drawn by urine on the nests, a give-away to the predators. Look for dark-eyed Junco snowshoe hares feeding on wild raspberries and American toads feasting on dead trees.

It feels like a kid climbing the winding stairs to the Tree House for a bird-watching session through powerful binoculars, our group taking turns to examine a moose antler on exhibit indoors. I discover the size of the moose antler determines how healthy the animal is, that they are at their prime sexual peak between six to eight years and body weight can total 1500 lbs., a factor that limits how far the animal can travel.

Most exhilarating was the elevated view (1500 ft. above sea level) of the horizon from the Tree House. I use my telephoto camera lens to scan along the line below the tree line, and what appears on the skyline as black specks I discover are birds flying in different directions. Tapley knows the species common to the area and if you're as sharp-eyed as he is you may spot the red-eyed vireo, one of the 30 to 35 species of wood thrush, broad-wing or red-wing hawks or black-throated blue warblers. But most of all, be sure to enjoy the stellar panoramic view. The lakes spread out magically in the distance, Fairy Lake, Penni Lake and Lees Lake, and so does Echo Bay.

Discovering the great outdoors can be experienced on several nature outings offered by ClubLink Resorts. Besides bike tours and nature walks, get adventurous with a Wilderness Canoe Excursion into Algonquin Park or the Algonquin Moose Caboose Tour. During the winter nothing beats the excitement of the Algonquin Dog Sledding Adventure or the Cross-Country Skiing/Snowshoeing Excursions. For the younger set book the Children's Nature Discovery outings on the year-round program.

For more information contact editor Pamela Campbell: editor@travel-travel-travel.com