Cabanas is on the north coast of the Dominican Republic and situated between the
towns of Sosua (famous for SCUBA diving) and Cabarete, a windsurfing and
kiteboarding Mecca. The resort lies on a secluded beach just a few minutes drive
from these two hot spots known for their hustle and bustle. Thus we could enjoy
the exciting activities and night life and still return to peace and
tranquility.
Natura Cabanas is not a hotel. It’s a collection of a half a dozen unique
cabanas. They range in size from a studio unit to two bedrooms, with capacity
from 2 to 6 persons. All are designed to blend into the natural surroundings
with thatched roofs and adobe-like walls. Each has a porch with either a hammock
or a hammock chair. There are no phones or televisions or any of the other
distractions to detract from the natural beauty of the setting. The rooms are
cooled by ocean breezes and ceiling fans (no AC). The resort was designed and
built by architect Pablo Garimani and his wife Lole, both immigrants from Chile.
It also includes a pool, spa, yoga studio and two restaurants (one for breakfast
and lunch, the other for dinner). Lush vegetation fills the complex: Centennial
palms, almond trees and too many types of flowers to count.
We enjoyed a welcome cocktail upon our arrival and then took a stroll on the
private beach. The sand filtered between our toes as the late day sun cast long
shadows toward the horizon. Ahh! To be in paradise. We unpacked and meandered
away along the stone paths through the jungle towards the dinner restaurant. A
large German family was already in the midst of eating as we entered. The
restaurant has a small menu. However, the chef prepares a variety of specialties
each night. We explained that we were vegetarians and the chef said that it
wouldn’t be a problem. We started with wine and bread, followed by an enormous
salad and finally a vegetable tower stuffed with rice and eggplant. The Germans
were chowing down on chocolate cake for desert. It looked pretty tempting. But I
was already too full. We returned to our Cabana, named Laja, and sat on the
front porch reading and listening to waves buffeting the coast. I thought that
we’d have a tough time in the Caribbean without air conditioning. But I actually
woke up in the middle of the night shivering and had to reduce the speed of the
ceiling fan.
In the morning, we grabbed some toast and coffee and caught a cab to Sosua to go
SCUBA diving. We dove in Sosua the previous year and had had a fantastic time -
tons of sea life (eels, rays, schools of sergeant majors) and reasonably good
visibility of about 60’. We weren’t so lucky this time. We did two dives.
Visibility was at best 20’ and a layer of sand covered the coral. I did, though,
see a big puffer fish at the end of the second dive. Back at the resort, we had
a late lunch and then took another long walk on the beach. We considered going
into Sosua or Cabarete for dinner, but we were both too tired. SCUBA diving just
sucks the energy out of you. Thus, we dined once again at our cozy resort,
having a pasta meal. As on the previous night, the dining process took a couple
of hours. If you’re in a rush, Natura Cabanas is not the place. Everything moves
at a slower, more relaxed pace, i.e. island time.
The following morning we awoke to rain showers with intermittent storms
predicted for the remainder of the day. That put the kibosh on any plans to
kite-surf or snorkel or dive. Thus I spent the morning and afternoon doing
something I haven’t done in years... reading a book from cover to cover, an
autobiography of Peter Hillary, son of the famous Sir Edmond. Karen attended the
morning yoga class and then returned to spend the afternoon with a book.
The most comfortable place to read was the swinging hammock chair on the porch
of our cabana. There was also a rattan love seat on the porch. Whenever I would
get up from the hammock, Karen would steal it. Likewise, I stole the hammock
whenever she made the mistake of moving. I tried to devise ways to get her out
of the hammock. “Honey, have you seen the keys? Can you get me a glass of
water?” My tactics fell on deaf ears.
At 3 p.m. we embarked for our fangotherapy session. The treatment started with
alternating sessions of sitting in a steam room for ten minutes followed by a
cool rinse in a shower. After three rotations, it was time for the mud. I went
first and the masseuse applied the mud to my body with a paint brush. It was
interesting to watch Karen as she turned into a sculpture with each brush stroke
of
mud. The masseuse wrapped us in white plastic sheets and led us through the
resort to a private entrance to the beach. We assumed that it was a private
beach. But it was just a stretch of sand about 100 feet from the main entrance
to the beach. The masseuse told us to let the mud dry and then to go rinse of in
the ocean. The mud dried unevenly. At one point we both looked like we were
covered in spots. Once it finally hardened, we ran down to the ocean and
splashed in the water like kids and then streaked back up to our plastic sheets.
We self-consciously returned to the spa (passing other guests and staff) wrapped
in plastic and rinsed again in the shower. The treatment concluded with a one
hour massage. I again went first while Karen relaxed on a chaise lounge. Let me
just say that the masseuse has incredibly strong hands. It was the most intense
massage of my life. She squeezed my muscles so hard I thought they would pop.
And I felt like Jello when it was finally over. I showered again to wash off the
massage oils as Karen went in for her session. When Karen finished I commented
on the intensity of the massage and asked what she thought. Karen said that it
was a pretty good massage and not that intense. Then she called me a massage
wimp.
The next couple of days, we tried to take kite-surfing (AKA kiteboarding)
lessons. The weather, however, conspired against us with more passing storms on
the final days of the trip. We did squeeze in a wake-boarding class (the
snowboarding equivalent to water skiing). Karen was successful in getting up on
the board after a few tries. I, however, floundered around, got dragged all over
the place behind the boat, swallowed a ton of salt-water and was never being
able to stand up or get the board out of the water. But then again I’m a wimp.