GOING FOR DIAMONDSText and Photography by PamelaAnn CampbellFile photo courtesy of Rose Hall Great House 
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Montego Bay, Jamaica: It's a legendary tradition. In 1494, The Taino Indians heartily welcomed Columbus to Xaymaca, as they called Jamaica in those days. Centuries later visitors to the "Jewel of the Caribbean" discover the sentiment remains the same.
Within four hours of leaving Toronto I trade serene maples for swaying palms and dresses for swimsuits, a city for an island, worlds apart. Forever spectacular, this treasure island continues to reveal precious gems like sparkling diamonds, namely the AAA Five Diamond Award bestowed on The Ritz-Carlton Rose Hall, the first resort to receive this prestigious recognition in Jamaica's history. Nowhere does the spirit of Jamaica rise more proudly than at the Ritz-Carlton Rose Hall located just 15 minutes from the airport in Montego Bay's Rose Hall Plantation district. With voices as warm as the weather, everyone says they're happy to see me and |
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that sure makes me anticipate a wonderful visit. I was to discover later on that they are all experts at assisting guests to find their way around the 427-room property.
Room with a View
The indoor scene is hardly a tradeoff. A brightly colored rug, pastel walls, mahogany and rattan furnishings really make a girl feel at home in the tropics. . Sometimes I would just tumble into my king-sized bed, pile those lovely goose-down pillows behind me and try to figure out the little cards the maid would leave on my tray with a chocolate square at turndown. Every evening I find my slippers beside my bed and two bottles of spring water on my night table. I enjoy this as a challenge and an elocution lesson at the same time. I repeat the Jamaican phrases and read the English interpretation. The locals dub the combination of English and African words patois, a dialect of sorts. Here are a few I found quite interesting: TIME LANGA DAN ROPE in English is "Time is longer than rope" but it really means "Time is the great healer." WEN PIKKINNY LIKKLE, DEM TANGLE YU KLOZE; WEN DEM BIG, DEM TANGLE YU HAAT, The translated version is "When children are little they tangle your clothes; when they are big, they tangle your heart" and this is the interpretation" "When children are young their basic needs are generally small; when they get older their needs are larger and cause heartache." Service is All Smiles
Charming and accommodating, Claudianna quickly observes that I am developing a taste for Caribbean Dreams ginger mint tea and brews me a fresh pot once I say 'yes' to tea. I am so enamoured of the refreshing flavor of the gingerroot and peppermint leaves that I return home with my very own supply that I locate at one of the airport shops.
If you like fresh air you'll never tire of the gorgeous vistas that dining on the balcony allows you to enjoy. Very often I must leave for other activities, but until then I am enraptured by the endlessly blue sky and aquamarine sea as the warm Caribbean breeze blows idly by.
Out and About All week long a number of complimentary activities are available on-site including beach volleyball, bocce ball/croquet, aquacise, nature and power walks. There are even scuba clinics and beginner, intermediate and advanced tennis clinics. Go native - take a wood carving class, learn how to move to reggae music, pick up some more patois phrases and allow coconut and sugarcane to tantalize your taste buds. You can even book morning snorkel or sunset cruises too. Look for the Resort Report if you prefer to plan ahead or The Times Fax (delivered daily to your room.) If you are in the mood to try the beauty and wellness services at the spa I can promise you that the island-style treatments are as exotic as they are heavenly. (See Escape to Spa Kingdom in our Spa Daze section)
Tropical scenes attract me therefore I note all the pretty flowering plants, ackees ripening on a tree, the pavilion, the white painted stairway and I promise myself to return later with my camera. The ackees are very pretty when they are flush with color in the ripening stages, although very few people see them growing on trees. Most visitors will likely see them in a restaurant that serves ackee and salt fish (cod), Jamaica's national dish.
The Outer Limits The concierge staff will book off-property activities that let you explore sea, sky and land. The island is only 146 miles long and as wide as 51 miles, but there's so much to do - scuba diving, snorkeling, sailing, rafting, horseback riding and helitours.
Young Annie, it is said, developed a thirst for casting evil spells in Haiti, and later came to Jamaica to practice her magical powers. John Rose Palmer fell in love with the beautiful Annie, married her and thus began her reign of terror at Rose Hall. Her three husbands met with untimely and brutal deaths, all believed to be Annie's doing. Even her slaves fell victim to the beguiling "black magic woman" who tired of them as lovers as she did of husbands. But in the end, the slaves she ruthlessly mistreated and tortured killed the ruthless Annie Palmer. By the end of the tour, take relief from those spine tingling memories at Annie's Pub in the dungeons. Dunns River Falls is perhaps the best known attraction in Jamaica. Although it does not require the skills of an Olympic athlete, you must wear proper footwear. I wore Speedo pool shoes with rubber soles that gripped the slippery rocks very well to assure my safety. This natural phenomenon is not your everyday waterfall. (Please see Falling for Ocho Rios in our Young World section.)
The course is no pushover just like Annie Palmer, the legendary White Witch of Rose Hall from whom its name originates. And like the mistress of the plantation who reputedly disposed of three husbands, The White Witch golf course can be moody and unpredictable from morning to afternoon when wind shifts can rush in and sweep balls off-course. The White Witch Golf Course engages golf concierges who will help you avoid pitfalls no matter how daunting the course seems. Not only do they know the holes by heart, but they will share excellent tips for conquering the game too. The concierges take charge of cleaning your clubs and after the game is over, your shoes as well. The first time you play perhaps you'll meet Tesha, the concierge who helped me to understand the course better. At hole number five most of the green breaks towards the ocean, but because of the hilly shape once it gets to the green it travels pretty fast. By hole six it becomes tricky getting across the ravine, which means you should golf mostly on the left. If you survive the others to get to hole10, it is the longest hole, a whopping 621 yards, but the fun shot comes four holes down at 14 where it goes 164 yards all the way downhill. Alas, the elevation at number 16, the 567-yard-hole, fools players into thinking it's shorter. The designers, Robert Von Hagge and Rick Baril, must know by now this course definitely is an exciting one. Thank goodness they created multiple tees (minimum five tee boxes on every hole) because shorter hitters (like me) certainly need an edge. Do I want to return to The Ritz-Carlton Rose Hall? You bet! Who can resist the glitter of diamonds?
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Ushered to my room on The Ritz-Carlton Club level it's time to freshen up before lunch at Mango's, the outdoor poolside restaurant specializing in Caribbean, American and international cuisine. In full view from my balcony are the pool, sun-drenched tropical gardens, tall palm trees, sandy beaches and glittering waters of the Caribbean Sea.
The most wonderful reason to enter The Ritz-Carlton Club lounge is to see the happy faces of the concierge staff alight with dazzling smiles. And just as lovely as the ladies are the blue floral dresses they wear that brightens the room with a tropical flair.
Later I meet the delightful Michele who is just as attentive, pleasant and ready make any reservations, discuss tours and as always, with a reassuring smile. Between 7 a.m. and 10:30 p.m. guests can attend the lounge and enjoy complimentary meal services such as continental breakfast, midday snacks, afternoon tea, cocktails, hors d'oeuvres, evening desserts and cordials.
Guests can indulge in a variety of culinary taste sensations presented under the direction of Executive Chef, Dennis McIntosh. Dining is a treat at the resort, from casual to elegant, Mango's, Horizon's, Jasmine's and Cohoba's offer great selections for every palate, from meals to afternoon tea and specialty coffee. For a change of scenery The White Witch Clubhouse is another restaurant, just a five-minute shuttle ride away at the golf course. (Please see Gourmet Passage to Jamaica in our Chef Celebre section)
The power walks with LoQuesser (Thursdays at 9 a.m.) are perfect for exploring the resort (and work off breakfast) as I follow her brisk footsteps throughout the grounds. If my pace slackens it's because my gaze lingers on the four guest wings built in colonial style grandeur with impressive stone columns. It gets warmer as we round the bend and approach the tennis courts, past the outdoor restaurant and pool and I spot volleyball nets on the beach (for the afternoon game.)
The private beach is lined with lounge chairs if all you want to do is enjoy the sunshine, people watch, read a book or snooze. The minute I show up Sheldon, the lifeguard, comes over to ensure I can relax in comfort, positions a chair just the way I want it, skillfully rolls a towel in place for a headrest and smilingly tells me I am "most welcome" when I thank him.
The nearby Rose Hall Great House, restored to its fine18th century grandeur, will thrill you in more ways than one. This is home to the legend of Rose Hall, a tale of unsavory love and lust perpetrated by the White Witch of Rose Hall, Annie Palmer.
The White Witch Golf Course is a 600-acre course designed by Robert Von Hagge and Rick Baril. Players face challenging rounds on this 6,718-yard, par 71 golf course, not only by wind changes, but by the irresistible vistas of the Caribbean Sea at 16 of the 18 holes.