ON TOP OF THE WORLD AT THE WALDORF=ASTORIA

A day or two is hardly enough to savor the wonders of this magnificent hotel. I can't help but feel special, and you will too - every room is decorated differently (and mine came with two luxurious terry bathrobes). The Art Deco motifs and marble bathrooms are classic reminders of the elegance that established The Waldorf=Astoria as one of the finest hotels in the world. The 'room with a view' is not just a cliche here; the hotel (between Park and Lexington Avenues and 49th and 50th Streets) is located on an astonishing 81,337-square-foot property.

There are six restaurants and bars offering fine cuisine as well as casual dining, afternoon tea and cocktails, while room

A STROLL DOWN MEMORY LANE

The Waldorf=Astoria shares its beauty and history with mesmerizing charm, and all it takes is a leisurely walk through this New York landmark and recently designated national treasure by National Trust Historic Hotels of America.

Visionary millionaire William Waldorf Astor opened his luxury Waldorf Hotel in 1893 at Fifth Avenue and 33rd Street, before linking up with cousin John Jacob Astor IV's Astoria Hotel to become The Waldorf=Astoria (the trademark double hyphen = significant of the 300-foot corridor connecting the original properties).

In 1931, when the 2,200-room hotel re-opened its doors in mid-town Manhattan, it was billed as the largest hotel in the world and the city's first skyscraper hotel, 42 stories high.

Mr. Astor's crowning glory came with society's penchant for 'opulence' and his mastery prevailed amongst the wealthy New York residents in unprecedented fashion. Soon it became the rage to host dinner parties at the hotel, followed by the society charity balls.

But eras come and go and by the end of World War II Americans went overboard with all things modern, and art and architecture were a lost medium.

Hotel magnate, Conrad Hilton, recognized this American beauty when he declared The Waldorf=Astoria "THE GREATEST OF THEM ALL" and subsequently acquired the property. A major restoration project in 1982 revealed a legacy of invaluable Art Deco treasures for all of us to see and enjoy.

AN AMERICAN BEAUTY

I find myself walking gingerly around the Park Avenue Lobby, matching my steps carefully with the grace of a ballerina (okay a would-be ballerina) as I marvel at the amazing Art Deco discovery that lay under carpets for nearly 30 years. Imagine 148,000 mosaic pieces intricately patterned to form the Wheel of Life, portraying various stages of the life cycle from birth. Thirteen wall murals by the same French artist, Louis Rigal, were also uncovered during the restoration.

This is the one that almost took my breath away - the four-story Grand Ballroom - scene of many of New York's charity balls and special events, featuring the city's only two-tiered ballroom. The Art Deco decor is restored with stunning results once the original medallions and grillwork are revealed. But the ultimate joy to behold is on the 41-foot ceiling - a scene from Greek mythology - the goddess Diana in pursuit of an impala, emblazoned in gold.

The Starlight Roof nightclub on the 18th floor is testament to another remarkable 'feat' of restoration. Once famous for it's retractable roof and skylights and dancing under the stars, the popular nights out ended with the advent of air conditioning. Now guests find themselves permanently under a starlit sky, cleverly recreated by highlighting the grillwork under the skylights with gold and silver leaf and using recessed lighting with hints of blue and white.

Peacock Alley is famed for its divine French cuisine as it is for its plush surroundings and 'creme de la creme' clientele. The ceilings with etched glass panels and the patterned parquet floors are no easy rivals for the peacock murals, but this is certainly a feast for the eyes if you manage to take them off your food or the glamorous crowd.

Interestingly enough the restaurant's engaging peacock murals bear no relevance to its name. This originated with the idle rich who would promenade along the mirrored corridor (of the original hotels) admiring themselves and each other. Their vanity provoked the scene of "so many peacocks strutting" prompting the description of "Peacock Alley."

The Waldorf=Astoria continues to retain its illustrious place in history, most recently as the chosen venue for the signing of the World Peace Accord, and presently the official residence of the U.S. Ambassador to the United Nations (a first for any hotel in the world).

The hotel's guest list reads like a 'Who's Who' of high society. Yes, President Herbert Hoover, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Frank Sinatra and Cole Porter were all permanent residents in the Waldorf Tower suites located on the top 16 floors.

In a nostalgic mood? Sip cocktails in the Cocktail Terrace, overlooking the Park Avenue lobby, while enjoying nightly entertainment on Porter's Steinway baby grand. (Mr.Porter willed the piano to The Waldorf=Astoria). Or spend an afternoon people watching while you enjoy afternoon tea there.

DINNER AT OSCAR'S

If you're in the mood for a late evening dinner, you're not big on dress codes, and your friends want to join in the fun, this American brasserie is your kind of place.

Oscar's was named in honor of The Waldorf's famous maitre d' Oscar Tschirky. His legacy includes The Cookbook by Oscar of the Waldorf published in 1896, which is influential in chef Robert Trainor's kitchen to this day. It was also 'Oscar of the Waldorf' who created such classics as Lobster Newburg, Veal Oscar and the Waldorf Salad.

I'm sure it would have put a smile on Oscar's face to see how much we enjoyed Chef Trainor's tasting menu. This is a man who loves to cook, who can talk about cooking all day (or night) long, and who cooks fish (his favorite dish) with gusto. His creations can be seen taking form as he works in his open concept kitchen.

Trainor describes his style of cooking as "American cuisine with new world flavors" which set our taste buds in gear with each lip-smacking mouthful we ate. He believes supporting farmers who grow organic produce will maintain his high standards in the kitchen, and we can attest to that, but you be the judge. Here it is:

Seviche of wild stripe bass and marinated calamari, crisp green apple, daikon and pea shoots salad, and chili oil

Cannelloni of smoked salmon and caviar, jumbo lump crab salad with Cilantro and coconut milk on cucumber coulis

Chilled gazpacho broth with Cape Cod lobster, baby beet greens and truffle oil

Hudson Valley foie gras with lavender honey, carmelized Roma tomato, wild asparagus and frisee

Red snapper roasted with hearts of palm and cashew and limebrown butter

Grilled leg of lamb with fresh morels, roasted young carrots, pearl onions and apple with rosemary and lamb jus

Peach and almond tart with white peach sauce and vanilla ice cream.

Bon appetit!