HOT SPRINGS AND A VOLCANO - A GOOD MIX

Story & Photos by Pamela A. Campbell

Viewing volcanoes has never been a hot topic for me. But a visit to Costa Rica would be incomplete if I had to leave without seeing one, not when there are a record 112 craters that shape the country's landscape.

I had plans to see two of them, Arenal, the sleeping giant that woke up with a roar in 1968, and the slightly less vocal, but active Poas. I was defeated by Poas due to cloud cover, but I made it up to Arenal and had a good look at it, although at a very respectable distance during the day and at night.

It's best to join a sightseeing group since every tour guide I've encountered has a fountain of knowledge about their country, and are very proud to keep visitors informed. And on my Arenal trip, Jorge was no exception.

While I settled in for the three-hour drive on the Pan American Highway Jorge began telling the group all about Costa Rica. I know that bananas, coffee and tourism are the three top performers for the country's economy, but the leader of the pack, depends on which tour guide is giving the statistics.

Coffee varieties range from light roast to dark roast, and expresso to decaffeinated, and rank amount the best in the world (according to Jorge they are number one)

It's a pleasant drive along the countryside on the way to Arenal and everywhere you look there are mountains, prompting Costa Rica to be called "The Switzerland of Central America."

Volcanoes fall into three categories in Costa Rica. They can be active, dormant or extinct. Arenal has been recorded as a1,633 meter powerhouse and witnesses readily attest to its fury.

The volcano was dormant until 1968 when it erupted and killed many area residents. Apparently it is quite a phenomenom to witness the red-hot lava pouring forth while incandescent rocks hurtle through the air.

I was fortunate to see the top of Arenal, revealing the almost perfectly shaped cone rising from beneath the clouds. Later in the evening, I witnessed the red lava pouring down the sides before quietly disappearing with a distant glow. With each eruption the volcano gets larger and it is now estimated to be in the neighborhood of 1,640 meters.

I really liked the combination of viewing the volcano with a chance to enjoy the hot springs at Tabacon. The resort has a restaurant with tables overlooking a swim-up bar and pool and you can also view the volcano's mild or fiery performance from your seat. Italian and Costa Rican fare are offered, but you can just have a drink at the restaurant. They serve great pina coladas. At the swim-up bar I tried a Coco Loco, served in a hollowed out coconut shell. By the way, this is a great place for a honeymoon, which is why Liz and Chris were there from South Carolina.

The resort has four pools fed by the thermal hot springs. A favorite with bathers is the rocky ledge along the waterfalls at the first thermal pool. Try to find the spot where you can sit on a secondary ledge behind the tumbling waterfalls. I wish I had discovered it from the very beginning as the rushing waters massaged my shoulders while the swirling waters below did a number on my feet. Just remember to be careful as some of the rocks in the pool are moss covered and they can be quite slippery.

Body massages and facial masques are offered at the resort, but make sure you book your appointments soon after you arrive if you are not planning an overnight stay. A walk through the grounds is a must, just follow the pathways and you will discover the other thermal pools and an open-air bar.

The tour includes dinner a typical Costa Rican dinner at La Fortuna, an open-air dining concept under a huge umbrella type roof.

The next time I will definitely plan a stop-over, and maybe, Arenal will show me how powerful it can be!