A WEALTH OF GLORY IN THE CITY OF MONEYText and Photography by Jeffery W. Petersen
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| Florence, Italy: The thing that
always strikes me about Florence is the unmistakable scent of money. You notice it as soon as you enter the Piazza Santa Croce, lined with arcaded shops and eager tourists; it’s in the air as you turn left and head for the river Arno; it assails the nostrils again as you pass by the gold shops of the Ponte Vecchio. Less romantic souls might suspect it’s really the smell of high-quality leather in Florence’s many designer boutiques, but for me the fragrance typifies the wealth and exclusivity of this most Italian of cities. Top quality leather and jewelry are, of course, only one reason why the well-heeled flock to Florence – its history, culture, art galleries and palaces have made it irresistible to tourists for generations.  In
summer they flood the Uffizi, crowd the Piazza della Signoria, marvel at
the golden doors of the baptistery, and gape at Giotto’s bell tower, a
confection of pink, white and green that exactly matches the façade of the
adjacent cathedral.There is so much to see and do in Florence that culture shock – in this case, due to an abundance of art and architecture – is a real possibility. To try to do the city in a day or two not only does not do it justice, but leaves the departing visitor with nothing more than a series of fleeting impressions, and a lingering feeling of regret. Florence is one city where you really should treat yourself to a few luxuries, and principal among them is the luxury of time – to soak up the atmosphere, meander through quiet back streets, and bask in the city that is justly famous. One of the best places to enjoy this late afternoon is along the Arno. As the tourists wander back to their hotels and shopkeepers start to sweep up for the day, head along the Lungarno Acciaiuoli or take a side road towards the Ponte Santa Trinita. There you can gaze into the galleries and antique shops where latter-day Michelangelos seek wealthy patrons.  The
Santa Trinita provides a great view upstream to the Ponte Vecchio,
reflected in the river, which, on a clear day, shimmers with light. It is
a setting that is also appreciated by the businessmen and fashionistas who
cluster in nearby cafes, adding a refined buzz that percolates over the
commuter rattle.Heading away from the river and towards Piazza Madonna, you are likely to encounter that most important of activities – the passeggiata, or pre-dinner stroll – as immaculately dressed Florentines shake off the cares of the day, prime their appetites and, above all, show off in a manner quintessentially Italian. There are many fine cafes and restaurants less frequented by tourists, and correspondingly less expensive (which, for Americans, means merely pricey, as opposed to just punishing). The trattorias are also definitely worth sampling – Florence is famous for its thick, juicy steaks, but pasta or even a pizza are equally satisfying for those on a budget. At the Antica Pizzeria dell’Arte in Via del Giglio, I savored a salad caprese (with real mozzarella!) pepper steak and a glass of one of the finest Chiantis I’ve ever drunk.  While
it is hard to enjoy Florence unflustered when the tourist season is in
full swing, there are places to go where you can get a fresh perspective
on the city. On arrival, for instance, you could do worse than start with
the big picture – in every sense of the word.The Piazzale Michelangelo sits on a terraced hill on the south side of the Arno and provides an unbeatable view of the city, the river and major monuments, such as the Palazzo Vecchio. A visit to the lookout is also a good way to orient yourself before tackling the main tourist sites. For those who are fit, another way to rise above it all is by climbing to the top of Giotto’s bell tower or the roof of the duomo. The latter costs six euros (US$7) and provides unparalleled views of the renaissance skyline, set amid wooded hills. The duomo itself should not be ignored; the magnificent interior of the fourth-largest cathedral in the world has works by Uccello, Ghiberti, Donatello and Andrea del Castegno, among others. Nor should the basilica of Santa Croce be overlooked. Its interior is covered in frescoes by Giotto and his pupils (who were also responsible for the fabulous stained glass) and it’s the resting place of hundreds of eminent Florentines, among them Michelangelo and Galileo. A final vantage point worth investigating is Café Bartolini, in the Uffizi – it has terrific views of the Arnolfo tower and the city skyline. And remember not to cheat yourself. Give yourself the time you need to enjoy this truly marvelous city. |
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