PLAYING FAVORITES AT AVENTURE NORD-BECStory and Photography by Pamela A. Campbell
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St. Lambert de Levis, Quebec: "Dancing with Wolves" got Kevin Costner a starring role. Driving a dogsled is as close as I have come to some of the greatest stars of the canine variety.
The studio lot is at Aventure Nord-Bec and each 'star' appears ready and waiting for a role in the three-hour episode of "Ukalik - A Dogsledding and Snowshoeing Excursion" - at least that is what this novice dogsledder and self-appointed director calls this delightful adventure.
"I am not sure you can do it," one guide says. "Sure I can," I reply. "I don't know (meaning "You might not be heavy enough)," he reiterates (and I will soon find out what he means). Fortunately, along comes Jeff, our assigned guide, and seeing the excitement (and disappointment) in my face, he agrees I can take the reins. First the dogs are selected then harnessed and attached to the sleds. By then there is no mistaking there are 130 dogs in the pack, the chosen ones are waiting impatiently like racecar drivers at the starting line, the others on standby are barking and whining and hoping to join their lucky pals. Finally Jeff has our four-dog team ready. The stars are Sachem, 85 pounds, Natsik, 70, White Fang, 100, and Laska 95. The hitching 'post' is shaped like a horseshoe, slightly bigger with pointed ends that sink into the snow covered ground.
It's obvious that the dogs outweigh my passenger and I (the reason behind the guide's concern), but all it needs is razor sharp attention and split-second reaction skills to master driving a dogsled. Like me, the dogs are yearning to take to the trails. The barking goes on non-stop, heads are turning in every direction while tails are wagging uncontrollably. After a last minute checkup (emergency gear, first-aid kit, etc.), the passengers are tucked snugly under blankets, we hear a simultaneous shout, "Allez! Allez!" (Let's go!) and we're off! The blast of cold air is a wake-up call from Old Man Winter when it hits your face in this region of St. Lambert de Levis. The dogs run like their lives depend on it (and I guess it does since that's what they are bred for). These sure-footed animals whisk through the forest leaving soft imprints in the snow as they show us the wonders of nature in the middle of this huge tract of land. At first the peace and quiet can be quite overwhelming (after all that barking), then it becomes very fascinating and exhilarating.
Yes, the stops, those are fun too. On more than one occasion the dogs get that flirtatious look in their adorable slanted eyes and Jeff must shout, "Allez! Allez!" And when they insist on getting amorous, that's when he has to say firmly, "Pas maintenant, Sachem (Not now), Allez! Allez!" But they do get to flex their muscles (so to speak) - they will come to a complete standstill to relieve themselves, leaving us little choice but to wait, then coax them into rejoining the convoy as quickly as possible. This is where I must do combat with the freezing temperatures with my bright yellow and black snowmobile suit, headband, hat, mitts, thermals and Cougar boots with thick socks. Happily they all survive the test, although my fingers get a bit nippy and Jeff comes to the rescue with a pair of buckskin mitts. Taking turns, passenger becomes driver, and so the return trip has me sitting comfortably in the sled as we mush our way back to the kennels. The sight of a pot-bellied stove warming our lunch room is as appealing as our Quebec meal itself. Fresh baked bread, spinach and leek soup, tender hare stew with carrots and potatoes, accompanied by hot cider really hit the spot. And the gateau Reine Elizabeth (Queen Elizabeth Cake) for dessert with hot tea and coffee was a delectable hit with sweet-toothed fans like yours truly (see recipe below). Enough to prepare us for the introduction to our next outdoor adventure - snowshoeing.
Just when you begin to entertain thoughts of being a fur trapper you stumble and fall in six feet of snow. And this is where it becomes a comedy of snowshoe novices. Try as I might (as the first to fall victim to the terrain) I am unable to get up, while my buddies find the whole spectacle totally hilarious, especially when I can't find my sunglasses. Soon it's my turn to laugh because Chris ends up on his derriere and the same fate befalls him. Next comes John and Ray, all kissing the ground like reverend worshippers. Two others decide it's too adventurous for them and return to the starting point. Tramping through the snow Jeff stops to explain how the sugar maples are tapped for syrup during the spring. He tells us about the wildlife native to the region - moose, fox and deer - their habits and how they exist year round in the forest. Soon we can identify the spruce and larch trees, check for signs of aging by looking at the bark on the tree trunks and marvel at nature exposed in all her glory. We do all of this while negotiating twists and turns between low hanging branches and snow covered tree roots. Jeff, our intrepid guide, loves to travel the world when he's not working as a tour guide at Aventure Nord-Bec. He boasts a diploma in ecology and adventure tourism and holds the required Wilderness Rescue and CPR certificates.
Montminy's latest summer program includes kennel vacations (all about caring, feeding and training the dogs) and workshops on building a log cabin by traditional methods. A kennel tour included a visit with an adorable litter of Alaskan Malamute puppies that lined up obediently for a group photo! Aventure Nord-Bec will thrill you for hours or days, it's all up to you. And don't forget your camera and lots of extra batteries! GATEAU REINE ELISABETH (QUEEN ELIZABETH CAKE) Bring to a boil 1 cup chopped dates, 1 tsp. baking soda and 1 cup hot water. Beat together 1 cup sugar, 1 tsp. vanilla, ¼ cup butter, a pinch of salt and 1 egg. Add 1 ½ cup flour and 1 tsp. baking powder to the mixture (sugar, egg, butter) and stir in date mix. Bake at 350F for 40-50 minutes (about 10 minutes before it's finished, remove the cake and top with 1 tsp. coconut and 6 tsp. heavy cream, 10 tsp. brown sugar and 6 tsp. butter or margarine. Bon appetit!
RECOMMENDED WINTER GEAR Overnight or longer all of the above, plus the following:
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Standing, pacing, reclining, or snoozing, these dogs sense we are here to run with them (they've done this so many times, they recognize we are strangers who will become their friends). My adrenaline starts to flow at the sight of the pack - these Arctic dogs are the equivalent of 'hunks' in the human race. But the Siberian Huskies and especially the Alaskan Malamutes are really adorable 'babies' with a playful side that belies their powerful appearance. My petite size is not only a source of concern to me but to the guides after I decide I want to drive my own sled.
Even so, I must stand on the brakes to keep the dogs from taking off. Jeff explains how important it is for me and my passenger to keep our distance from the sled ahead. The minute we notice they are slowing down I must react instantly by standing on the brakes with both feet and start shouting, "Arretez! Arretez!" (Stop!) so that the dogs will slow down and stop within seconds.
Around the corners we go, picking up the soft whistling of the wind as it echoes through the trees - a melody to our cold, muffled, ears. Besides keeping an eye on the sled ahead, I try to spot as many different tree types native to this area and peer into the distance for some sign of wildlife. I know they are there because I see paw prints on some of our brief stops.
Getting the snowshoes on is half the fun and mastering the art of walking in them is another feat. Six of us decide we are up to challenging the snowy trails and soon we are on our way, timidly lined up like penguins one behind the other, following Jeff.
These outdoor adventure programs began 10 years ago, the creation of Denys Montminy, a sled dog breeder for over 30 years. Besides eight scheduled excursions there are also specially designed packages for snowmobilers, wilderness survival aficionados, dogsledding fans and those who want an encounter with a trapper. And if you crave real adventure try sleeping in a log cabin or a prospector tent!
