CASABLANCA AND MARRAKECH - NORTH AFRICAN CITY LIGHTS

Story and Photos by 
Pamela A. Campbell

CASABLANCA - MOROCCO'S COSMOPOLITAN METROPOLIS

Casablanca is pure Bogie and Bergman. Hollywood has never left the scene since Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman starred in the epic film. The legacy lives on among the younger generations who embrace the fashion plate mentality in the huge cosmopolitan metropolis.

Yet Morocco's largest city of nearly five million people and bustling seaport still exhibits a passive resistance to western influence and visitors will find Casablanca an intriguing destination. You will see locals who still prefer to wear the flowing jellabas and hooded burmouses on the streets or in mosques.

Agriculture, tourism and fish are the mainstay of the economy, visibly a thriving one. Berber, Arabic and French are spoken widely, and English-speaking guides can be hired at most attractions.

The weather is glorious - nine months of sunshine, which probably accounts for the 'free' beaches our guide, Scotty, kept telling us about. And yes, I couldn't believe my ears or my eyes, there is a Miami Beach.

Casablanca boasts outstanding Art Deco and amazing architecture dating back to the 1930s - inherited from the city's original settlers (Portuguese and French).

If you're hesitant about visiting any of the five cathedrals, 50 synagogues or 300 mosques, I would consider the Hassan II Mosque the exception. It is also among the limited number of religious properties that permit entry to non-Muslims (conservative dress is recommended and shoes must be removed before entering the mosque).

Local craftsmen completed the US$800 million mosque, designed by French architect, Michel Pinseau, in 1993 after five years of non-stop labor. From the minute I stepped on site, I realized the monumental proportions of the mosque were unlike any other religious structure I've ever seen (I've never been to Mecca).

Imagine worshipping amongst 25,000 people (20,000 men and 5,000 women in separate areas). And that's just in the prayer hall. There is room for an additional 80,000 Muslims outdoors (in the surrounding courtyard area). No one misses any of the prayers either - there are 360 loudspeakers throughout the mosque.

This is true Moroccan artistry displayed in its finest form, with the raw materials originating from other parts of the country - Agadir marble, Tafraoute granite and Middle Atlas cedarwood.

A typical guided one-hour tour includes the prayer hall, ablution rooms (for cleansing), the hammam and the yet to be operational Turkish baths. You are free to marvel at the 800-kilogram Murano glass chandeliers (each one takes a month to clean), and wonder about the intricacies of humidity absorption that prevents the lamps from rusting. And learn that limestone egg yolks, clay and black soap are used to produce the stucco moulding and admire the zellij work (ceramic tiles) and wood carving.

The mosque boasts the highest minaret in the world (210 meters) and nightly displays of laser light aimed at Mecca attract lots of attention.

The state-of the art structure extends to an ll00-ton-sliding roof and heated floors. Once the tour is completed and your astonishment fades, step outside for a refreshing look at the Atlantic Ocean with its azure waters and white frothy waves - nature and artistry beyond compare!

South of Casablanca on the Central Coast is El~Jadida, popular for its beaches and well preserved Portuguese architecture throughout the country.

For history buffs Citerne Portugaise (Portuguese Cistern) deserves a visit. Built in 1769 and rediscovered in 1961, this architectural and engineering wonder still works! Although it appears dark and cavernous, you will be amazed at the hidden beauty that lies below the stone walls, most notably the roof and 25 arched pillars reflected in the water covered floor. Famed for scenes in Orson Welles' Othello, the site is very popular with other movie directors.

MARRAKECH - EXCITING AND INVITING "FUN CITY"

If I had my way, I'd embellish Marrakech with two words. Why? Because it's "Fun City" to me. After all, a city that exists for a thousand years (since 1062AD) has got to be special as in fun. And games (you'll find out what I mean when you go to the souqs to shop).

This is a fascinating and exciting part of Morocco that craves attention. I woke up every morning to the sound of clattering hooves as horse-drawn carriages made their way across the city transporting people and merchandise. And if that didn't get me up, the tooting horns on scooters racing by did, and if that failed, it was the call to prayer emanating from the Koutoubia Mosque directly across the street.

To say Marrakech is a bustling city is an understatement, but it is, perhaps because it sits strategically at a point where west meets east, and south meets north, in the shadow of the High Atlas Mountains. Throughout the centuries its fortune has roller-coasted mainly because of its rulers' ensuing power struggles, but as tourists continue to flock to this irresistible imperial city, the economy grows stronger.

A good idea (especially for first-time visitors) is to stay near the main square in the heart of the old city so that you are within walking distance of everything worth seeing.

A guided morning walking tour took us through the side streets leading to the Palais de la Bahia built towards the end of the 19th Century over a period of 14 years. The courtyards, fountains and halls and doorways attract visitors in steady streams, but it's a welcome chance to admire more artwork of the master craftsmen of Morocco, zellij designs and muqama stucco work. The interior is pretty bare now, but with some imagination you can conjure up images of the harem occupying spacious and luxurious apartments at the palace.

A visit to a carpet factory, La Maison du Tapis, featured wall-to-wall carpets of multiple designs, sizes and colors. Randi, Mary Jo, Nick and Radha all returned home with carpets in tow after successfully bargaining for them.

A brief stop at an old-fashioned bakery was another example of the pervading customs being practiced through the centuries by Moroccans. Women rush through the streets with prepared dough ready to be baked in the stone ovens.

On this leg of the tour everyone dines at his or her leisure, a welcome chance to try different restaurants or cafes. I enjoyed lunch at Hotel Restaurant "Islane" on Av. Mohamed V en face de la Koutoubia (opposite Koutoubia Mosque).

The menu offered Salades, Viandes, Specialites, Poissons, Pizzas, Pates,Desserts and Plats sur Commande. The walk has left me thirsty, and the first of three glasses of freshly squeezed orange juice tasted so refreshing it disappeared in a very short time. I skipped the salad and opted for Pizza Venezia - a delicious creation of tomatoes, asparagus, artichoke and mushrooms topped with cheese surrounding an egg. For dessert it's Creme Caramel, my second choice since they were out of Assortment de Patisserie Marocaine. My bill? The grand sum of 80 DH (about US$8).

The souqs in the medina are best explored before nightfall, and it's a good idea to take a guided tour at first, just to familiarize yourself with the area. I did a half-day solo excursion and although it was a bit overwhelming at first, the labyrinth laneways were not as challenging as avoiding impatient scooter riders.

Souvenir shops will bedazzle you with jewelry, leather slippers, ornate mirrors, silver trays and teapots, baskets, carvings, daggers, T-shirts and caftans galore. If you're just browsing, say so, if not you will be at the mercy of the vendors who will engage you in a bargaining frenzy designed to result in a sale. (See below for tips on bargaining).

For westerners with shopping mall mentality, you're fair game at the souqs. The way you dress, your hairstyle, jewelry, the way you speak, will all determine how gullible you appear to the shopkeepers. Be lighthearted with the merchants; it adds to the excitement of shopping at the souqs.

Clothing purchases must be examined for size and length as there is no uniform small, medium and large by western standards. The same goes for shoe sizes, always check for fit, or if you're buying for someone else take a paper outline with you for easy comparison. T-shirts and caftans are good buys, as well as colorful, soft leather slippers, if they fit (they were all too big for me).

Walls of necklaces and bracelets of every color, metal and description offer mind-boggling choices. Genuine silver jewelry bears a stamp and most merchants will show you the proof.

Cassettes are an excellent buy if you enjoy local music. The kiosks are equipped to play the tapes before you make your selection. This was my first attempt at 'bargaining' and although successful, I must warn you that it is very time consuming, but fun. CDs are more pricey and the quality can be questionable.

Don't worry if the item that caught your eye is not available in the size or color you want, the guy next door or somewhere in the souqs will have it, or so you're told. This marketing strategy became quite familiar by the end of the day, but unfortunately the style of leather sandals my son had requested was nowhere to be found.

The Djemas el-Fna is the biggest attraction in Marrakech, a square roughly the size of four football fields. Always bustling with people even during the day, the crescendo builds from early evening as throngs of locals and tourists converge on the scene to witness "the greatest open-air spectacle in the world" according to Lonely Planet guidebook authors.

I set aside the daylight hours for wandering around at a leisurely pace, although at times, everyone seems to demand your attention. Grizzly old men dressed in brightly colored water seller costumes love camera toting tourists. Just remember anyone you photograph expects to be paid (maximum 25 DH, the equivalent of a quarter in US currency).

On a warm day, the juice sellers offering freshly squeezed orange juice are a tempting sight. The dried fruit and nut vendors lure shoppers with free samples doled out from pole length scoops, and before long you'll find yourself snacking your way around the square.

If you're interested in having your hands or feet painted with intricate henna patterns, this is the place for it. It's easy to spot the women who practice the art - they run around with pictures showing numerous designs, promising the 'best' job in town.

I was accosted by a young woman who, despite my protests, grabbed my palm and started drawing flowers, proclaiming loudly it was a 'gift' for me. I had every intention of coming home with my feet decorated, but her aggressive tactics changed my mind. Of course she demanded payment afterwards, but I told her very emphatically she had refused to listen to me and I owed her nothing. I would at least have liked the opportunity of selecting the design myself!

The evening hours (between 7 and 9 p.m.) herald a conspicuously different atmosphere at the square - it's like a huge old-fashioned carnival with people milling about in search of food or entertainment. Vendors vie for customers good-naturedly from their open-air food stalls displaying every conceivable Moroccan delicacy, while the irresistible smells waft in the air temptingly.

Our group claimed the bench seats at stall 27 to feast on salads, sausages, fish, chicken, beef, lamb, couscous and the ever-popular 'frites' (fries). Pop, bottled water or hot mint tea accompany the meal and if you still have room fruit and cakes are on the dessert menu. (There's little cause for concern about eating in the square - the food is freshly prepared and cooked in front of you).

Our stall 'hosts' insisted on being photographed and kept repeating, "Lights, camera, action" as if they were on a movie set. I was happy to oblige and now I can share my memories with you and all my friends.

Afterwards you can have your fill of entertainment - dancers (men dressed as women), musicians, story-tellers, jugglers, acrobats, musicians and snake charmers occupy every inch of space. Keep small change handy for the hat that regularly makes the rounds (don't try to thwart the 'assistants' - they keep their eye on the crowd and try to catch you before you move on to the next performance).

This is a fabulous place to 'people watch' - the storytellers tell their 'tall tales' night after night watched by local spectators who listen with rapt attention at the unfolding saga (mostly myths and legends). Despite the language barrier or unfamiliar references, facial expressions, extravagant gestures and intonations can be quite entertaining.

Marrakech again? You bet!