Buzet , France : It’s said that “the barrel makes the wine” and I do agree since a recent visit to Buzet let me see first-hand what goes on in the production of wine barrels.

It all began in 1945 when Hubert Saint Martin launched his company proudly calling it Saint Martin . After also becoming expert coopers (as professional barrel makers are called), son, Yves and grandson, Francois, continue the legacy of cooperage in the family-owned business.

The coopers must first travel to the oak forests in Allier and Vosges , known to yield wood with the tightest grain. The 80-to-100-year-old trees are harvested and logged before they are cut into rough staves and then machine or hand split following the wood grain (to reduce porous leaks), all to the specifications of Tonnellerie Saint Martin.

This is just the beginning. The “woods” as they are called, remain outdoors for a long time, exposed to the elements (sun, rain and wind), a natural method of open air drying to allow the release of unnecessary tannins. They are then heated over an open wood fire, resulting in the finest oak flavours. By “toasting” (as the heating process is called) moisture is eliminated, allowing wood sugars to cling to the inside of the barrel.

To the uninitiated eye, barrel making appears far from complicated, but only with skilful attention to every minute detail does the Saint Martin family preserve their reputation as “A Premium Bordeaux Wine Barrel Cooper.”

Ever wondered how the barrels are shaped? It’s called “raising the barrel” and “bending” and although it looked straightforward from the observation deck I figure it must take years to master the trade.

To begin the process the barrel is raised with two hoops before the bending takes place. The cooper sprays the raised staves with water over a fire, the heat generates steam that softens the wood and then the supple staves are bent into shape. They actually look like a line-up of wooden hula skirts!

Next the barrel goes on a machine to ensure all the ends are level before the top and bottom “heads” are precisely fitted into the ends of the barrel. The heads are carefully monitored for porous leaks and if need be, replaced, then re-tested. Once approved the head is cut and hammered securely into the barrel…..almost finished, but not quite yet. The hoops, except for those at the top and bottom are removed, and the sanding process takes place by machine. Now they are ready for branding and then storage prior to delivery.

At Saint Martin, the emphasis is on quality, not on quantity. A small staff of dedicated coopers ensures that the 4,000 barrels they craft annually meet the standards of each winemaker’s specifications. Bordeaux Tradition barrels carry chestnut hoops and cross bar and Bordeaux Ferre barrels use eight steel hoops and cross bar, while Bordeaux Transport barrels are made with six steel hoops, all with a capacity of 225 litres.

Saint Martin barrels and their signature “toasting” are lauded as perfect for Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, both high in tannins. There is even a consensus that the same might be said for wines such as Chardonnay, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc.

When wine drinkers raise their glasses for a toast the barrels seldom come to mind, but without these carefully crafted “vessels” our wine appetites could never be satiated.

It’s a tour with a lasting impression, thanks to the barrel makers of Buzet!