PLEASURES AND TREASURES AT BENMILLER INN

Thanks to a "moment of madness" that consumed Joanne Ivey and her brother, Peter, in 1970, two nineteenth century mills became Benmiller Inn "Canada's authentic country inn."

It was to be my passport to a classic country experience, so along with a friend, I headed to the inn in Goderich, less than three hours from Toronto.

History abounds on this 75-acre property with its restored buildings equipped to handle most modern day indulgences. The entrance gates of this country estate lead to the Woolen Mill, Gledhill House, River Mill and Mill House, four buildings that house guest rooms and spa treatment rooms, as well as private conference rooms.

Like the threads woven into the blankets once made at the Woolen Mill, each of its rooms offers a glimpse into a bygone era. Our top floor room was curiously charming, odd-shaped, having been "roughed in" to the roof of the original building. Spacious, yet cozy , the room exuded a rustic charm with its barn-board headboard, cupboard, door and door trim. The wrought iron designs above the headboard, now the inn's logo, were remnants of a "widow's walk" from the top of the old Customs House in London, Ont.

To enjoy the village-like setting of Benmiller Inn, take a leisurely walk around the buildings, follow the nature trail and stop for a while near the River Mill where Sharpe's Creek meanders down to join the Maitland River. It's a rendezvous with nature you'll never forget. If you need to unwind try the heated pool, sauna, whirlpool and fitness facilities indoors. If you crave the outdoors, seasonal activities include cross-country skiing, hiking and cycling.

We were here to take time out from our demanding daily schedules with treatments designed to enhance stress relief and relaxation. I headed off for a deep relaxation massage, intent on reaping lasting benefits for my trouble zones - neck, shoulders and lower back. Aside from the knotted muscles, which were kneaded, gently prodded and cajoled, I learnt to focus on my breathing patterns, one essential so many of us miss, and I was happy I did. I emerged refreshed and relieved, both in mind and body.

My friend's introduction to the "Gentlemen's Custom Facial" was a gentle awakening to the wonders of caring for the most delicate part of one's body. Women enjoy aesthetics, but some men are uncomfortable with the experience, so there was only one way to find out what it was all about, and that was to try it.

Not only did this prove to be a relaxing and refreshing experience, but the aesthetician's careful explanation of the effects of the environment on the face and the importance of face cleansing has now become a daily practice for my friend. He has a deep respect for facial masques (they slough off dead skin), and his routine now includes using a moisturizer, a deterrent to premature aging. But newfound bliss came with the neck and facial massage, an irresistibly good feeling, coupled with the repetitious motion of skilled fingers slowly relaxing every yearning muscle, soothed to contentment.

Head chef Derek Griffiths' repertoire of appetizers were like music to his hungry guests. Grilled Huron County rainbow trout with tossed baby greens in a pommery mustard Vinaigrette was my choice. His was steamed P.E.I. mussels with a basil pesto and white wine sauce. The grilled rack of lamb and beef tenderloin entrees and house wine played to our palate, but there was room for the marbled mocha tart with roasted coconut and raspberry coulis and sundried blueberry Crème Brulée with a chocolate dipped biscotti.

Benmiller's is a place to roam. Before breakfast we decided to hike down to the nearby Maitland River, just in time to catch the sunrise, breathe the crisp, country air and linger awhile to watch anglers flyfishing at the Falls area.

Breakfast on the terrace is a must. The totem pole is a colorful distraction while you sit and enjoy the buffet-style meal.

Forever a fan of body wraps, my herbal body wrap was just as stimulating, relaxing, calming and detoxifying as promised. Who wouldn't enjoy feeling the warmth of plant and flower essences infused into their body?

But it's the aromatherapy facial that returns me to the spa scene. You select the mixture of essential oils for your specific skin type/condition designed to heal, soothe, calm, moisturize and detoxify, while the "composition" are general oils (mood enhancing) used for the lymph drainage massage - very light movements that are directed towards the lymph nodes to remove the toxins in your system. Using an herbal masque to break up the dead surface skin cells and to dry out impurities, the circular massaging movement does the trick. while the hot towels are very comforting. Finally, a toner is used to tighten pores and help retain elasticity while acting as a skin freshener, and a facial moisturizer and eye cream leaves me bright-eyed and ready to face the world again.

A deep relaxation massage was my friend's preparation for life back in the city, and because this was a regular indulgence he needed no encouragement. As a stress reliever, it worked and all the stored tension gradually disappeared, enough to entice him into a sleepy state.

My last pleasure at the spa? A manicure, and why not? It's always a welcome chance for me to relax while my nails are professionally filed, shaped, buffed and polished, and I really enjoy having my hands massaged.

We bade a fitting farewell to Benmiller with sous chef John Kloss' rendition of a light lunch of baby greens with a wild raspberry vinaigrette and a baked phyllo pastry purse of brie cheese and grilled yellow fin tuna and chilled olive concassé.

If I had my way, I'd love to have stayed a little bit longer at Benmiller's! Maybe next time....... For more information contact editor Pamela Campbell at editor@travel-travel-travel.com