Valle de Bravo, Mexico: Beyond the frenzy of Mexico City are links to Mexico’s treasured past and unfolding future in the mountain village of Valle de Bravo, over 2,000 meters above sea level. “Valle” (as it is popularly known) was formerly Temascaltepec (Hill of the Hot Baths) where natives practiced spiritual purification, but in 1860 was re-named to honor a great patriot, Nicolas Bravo.

If you think this is a sleepy, little enclave, you’re in for quite an awakening, notably at El Santuario, a lakeside spa creation that is beyond imagination, but not superlatives.

Cradled in quartz, El Santuario is an imposing spectacle by day and an extra-terrestrial vision by night. It’s almost like entering a giant spaceship, but within these walls are some of the most sumptuous creature comforts. The first temptation (if you can extricate yourself from within the soft Egyptian cotton sheets and down filled bedding on the king-size bed) is to sink into the plunge pool, installed in each of the 64 suites. Another is La Vista, the lakeview restaurant with elegant international gourmet dining and spa cuisine, open-air on the terrace, or by warmed by the fireside indoors.

Owner Michel Domit believes this is “a place born of a different dimension” and perhaps it is.

He was deep in meditation when his father told him to buy a mountain in Valle de Bravo. At the time (1995) he says he was broke after he had closed his $5M Nike plant, a victim of cut-rate Chinese prices. But for his resolve, we would hardly be marveling at how functional this 400-acre eco-friendly resort has become, right down to stones from the river beds caressing our feet on the shower floors, and to admire the quartz, marble, adobe, slate, wood and bamboo built into the property.

It was at the pinnacle of this quartz mountain that Domit says he found himself looking for direction in this venture. Today his vision has evolved into El Santuario, built between February and October of 2003 by an incredible team of 1,000 workers.

Poised atop winding, circular, suspended stairs is a 20,000 square-foot spa where over 60 treatments can be enjoyed. If the infinity edge plunge pool doesn’t get you moving, I’ll bet the spa will. Don’t let the swinging stairway faze you; it gets easier once you reach the top and sink into the super-comfortable loungers that surround a hanging, copper fireplace (it’s cooler up here because of the altitude) and gaze at the gorgeous panorama of the tranquil Lago de Avandaro, the Tarascan Indian word for “dream place.”

I had an “impromptu” treatment when I suddenly got dizzy during a tour of the spa the first evening. Before I knew it I was stretched out on a chaise lounge, covered with a blanket and administered oxygen. Minutes later I was fully recovered, perhaps a little embarrassed at being fussed over, but heck, I sure felt on top of the world! I was scheduled for oxygen therapy later, but since I jumped the gun I can attest to its restorative qualities. The oxygen bar lineup includes fruit and herbal essences, it’s your choice. I chose eucalyptus, but there’s also lavender, mango or orange.

I believe there’s magic in the mountains and if that seems far-fetched just ask Anita, another guest. During a walkabout we stopped to marvel at the quartz mountain anchoring the resort, and soon we were all checking out the surface (perhaps for energy?) Suddenly a scream broke the silence and there stood a bewildered Anita, holding two chunks of rock that had literally fallen off the mountain! Triggered by the memory of a piece of the Berlin Wall she had acquired on a visit behind the now raised Iron Curtain, her momentary desire was to take home something from the mountain. She never thought the mountain would give it up, but it did!

Like most spas a gamut of treatments revolve around massages, body wraps and scrubs, facials, thalasotherapy and hydrotherapy, but at El Santuario they have added a cultural flair that spells Mexican finesse to the highest degree.

Just imagine luxuriating for two hours on the water, gently caressed by the sun and wind, in a romantic interlude. Yes, you are with the love of your life, but it’s what the two spa therapists are doing that makes your escape so enjoyable. First there is the cactus exfoliating body scrub (no, it is non-irritating), followed by a mescal/tequila hydrating body wrap (no, you are not allowed to drink any of it) and finally, a Swedish massage (yes, it sends you straight to seventh heaven.) This “must have” treatment is Yenecamu, the spa’s signature therapy. The word means “a place between two waters” and that is why it’s done on the spa pontoon on the lake.

Valle de Bravo attracts Mexico City ’s elite for its colonial austerity, forest and lake vistas, but every year millions of Monarch butterflies wing their way for 3,415 miles from eastern Canada to blanket the nearby mountain forests. Among the cobblestoned streets are lively local markets, shops and galleries, stocked with handcrafted ceramics, linens and jewelry. Authentic to the village are “deshilados” – fabric that looks like lace. It’s an easy cab ride from El Santuario and can be a truly offbeat way to shop alongside villagers in colorful surroundings.

The shimmering lake and the warm breezes can be exhilarating on a boat ride, but it is often the luxurious homes of the multi-millionaires that hug the shoreline that will take your breath away. Of course, it’s also the perfect opportunity to take another look at the mesmerizing mountain that so inspired Domit to build El Santuario.

Another truly Mexican exposé lies within the lineup of native treatments and rituals, all intriguing, and beneficial to the body and soul. Go for the Temazcal Aztec Sweat Lodge, a cleansing ceremony you won’t forget, Shamanic Chakra Balancing, Guided Astral Meditations, Mayan Mud Wraps or Cactus and Tequila BodyTreatments.

Even if you’ve had some of these exotic treatments elsewhere, this is as authentic as it gets. I ended my visit with not one, but two hot stone massages, that’s how fantastic spa manager Oscar and his team are, and hopefully, I’ll be returning again soon.

Here’s why - “At El Santuario we don’t have guests,” says Michel Domit. “We have friends of the mountain.”