I love Quebec City, especially for its Winter Carnival, and every year about three-quarters of a million people share the same sentiment as they flock to the world’s Snow Capital during the 17 days and nights of fun-filled activities.
If you’re visiting from afar, most like likely you’ll have to take your pick of one of the three weekends between the end of January and February. This time around, my trip coincided with the opening night ceremony, and as always, it is very magical.
The momentum builds as crowds gather at Place Hydro- Quebec and excitement fills the air as snowflakes fly madly by, where the man of the moment is the veritable Bonhomme Carnaval even though Canadian Prime Minister Stephen Harper is among the honored guests.
The looming bundle of energy warms up the crowd by performing his welcoming repertoire of bending from his neatly sashed waist, touching his toes on each leg, and declaring, “Joyeux Carnaval!” Fireworks follow and the celebration begins with lively performers belting out popular songs, backed by a band called Porn Flakes, no kidding!
Even for non French-speaking visitors, a camaraderie exists and soon enough everyone is moving to the pulsating beat of the universal language of music.
Back in 1894 the Quebec Carnival was conceived as a respite from the bone-chilling cold the early settlers endured during the long winter season, but today it has evolved as the city’s number three revenue generator, and garnered a place on the Carnival World Map alongside Rio and New Orleans.
To gain admission to the festivities, all it takes is the $10 Bonhomme Carvaval effigy that easily attaches to anything you’re wearing, then grab an official program or mini map and you’re all set to go.
Bonhomme’s Ice Palace is as fascinating as he is. Approximately 9,000 tons of snow is fashioned by 15 artists into a replica inspired by France’s Chateau de Pau, where Henry IV and Samuel de Champlain met to plan the King’s visits to Quebec.
To really get into the spirit of things, make sure you are wearing the popular arrowhead sash or “ceinture fleche.” Folklore has it that the locals wore it to protect their backs, but also wrapped it around their waists to keep warm. Whatever the reason, it makes a great fashion statement at the carnival!
Head for Place Loto-Quebec for the outdoor dance parties by night and during the day you can check out sculptures by teams of young artists vying for recognition in the student division at the International Snow Sculpture Competition.
Place Desjardins at The Plains of Abraham is transformed into a giant playground filled with every fun activity beyond your wildest dreams. Zip-lining in winter, anyone? Shannon tried it and got stuck because someone forgot to “catch” her, but there’s nothing like that in Louisana, with snow to boot! Bet she will never forget that thriller! How about snow rafting? That’s so much fun as you twist and turn and barrel down sheets of ice at breakneck speed. Less adventurous? Try the dogsledding rides, it really is fun.
After satisfying the adrenaline rush, cool things down a bit with a visit to the sugar shack for a maple syrup treat, or bundle up for a sleigh ride, and you’re guaranteed a good night’s sleep.
One of the carnival’s exciting events is the Grande Viree (dogsledding race) held during the first week. Visitors line the snow-covered streets near Chateau Frontenac for a glimpse of each team as they whiz by, hoping to clock the best time and win the race. This year free samples of Caribou were offered and many accepted, warding off the chill in the air.
(Caribou is a popular carnival drink that is said to have originated from a mixture of caribou blood and maple syrup, but don’t get squeamish, it’s really Vodka, Brandy, Sherry and Port!)
More daring, and perhaps mind boggling is the Canoe Race, pitting participants from around the world as they battle the icy waters of the St. Lawrence River in sub-zero temperatures to get from Quebec City to Levis, cheered on by almost as hardy souls lining the banks of Louise Basin. A shot of Caribou anyone?
In town for the finale? Don’t miss the Snow Bath, a popular event, featuring participants in swimsuits in who obviously enjoy Artic temperatures! And if you didn’t catch the night parade on the second weekend, get ready for a spectacular treat as 15 floats and over 900 performers (marching bands, bugle corps, clowns, etc.) take over the streets of Quebec to entertain carnival aficionados for the last time until the 56th carnival rolls around next year.
A quick reminder to all – the secret to enjoying the Quebec Winter Carnival is to dress for the weather, and it’s all about layering. Joyeux Carnaval!
On another note, since February is the month of love, we have a super idea for all you lovers out there…… Try taking your sweetheart to the famous Hotel de Glace! It’s the only Ice Hotel in North America, carved out of 500 tons of ice and 15,000 tons of snow.
It’s also a really cool spot for a winter wedding. The ceremony can be performed at the Ice Chapel, and over 400 guests can attend the reception in the Ice Bar area and nearby courtyard. Afterwards you can choose any one of the 36 rooms and suites for a honeymoon to remember! Well over 4,000 guests enjoy overnight accommodation every winter at the spacious 32,000 square-foot-hotel with 19-foot ceilings.