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Eleanor's Little Village

Text by PamelaAnn Campbell
Photography by Bridget Azeez

 

Arthurdale, West Virginia: It was their paradise. It was her crusade. Today it is a living history museum that traces the fascinating connection between a West Virginia community and First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt in the 1930s.

The Arthurdale Heritage Museum, 16 miles southeast of Morgantown in beautiful Preston County, is all about Arthurdale, the little town that found fame as the nation’s first homestead during the presidential term of Franklin Delano Roosevelt (FDR to Americans.)

 

TRAVEL GUIDE

Getting there: Take Route 7 East to 92 South to Arthurdale. The museum is off Route 92 on the corner of Q and A Roads.Stop at the visitors' center is in Center Hall, for a Self-Guide Driving Tour Map or to arrange a tour.

Hours:
May-October
10 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekdays
Noon -5 p.m. Saturdays
2 p.m. to 5 p.m Sundays; or by appointment.

Tel: 304-864-3959

E-mail: ahi1934@aol.com
           www.arthurdaleheritage.org

For information on area attractions and events visit the Greater Morgantown Convention and Visitors Bureau at Seneca Center, 709 Beechurst Ave. Tel: 304-292-5081

www.tourmorgantown.com

Broken Dreams

Fanned by the winds of the Great Depression poverty raged through the United States, condemning many people to a life of brutal existence when jobs disappeared especially in the coal mining industry.

FDR’s resolve towards job creation resulted in government-sponsored “New Deal” programs, but it was the First Lady who came face to face with a population in dire straits.

Motivated by horrific stories about Scotts Run, a coalmining dream gone bust, Mrs. Roosevelt got into her little roadster (August 1933) and drove to Morgantown unannounced.

It wasn’t a pretty picture: starving families, forced to sleep on bug-infested rags on the floor were living in shacks with newspapers on the walls to keep out the cold, lacking potable water supply or indoor plumbing. Desperate mothers were fBut it was the poignant story of a little boy, his pet rabbit and his sister’s mischievous taunt that got a sympathetic ear in the First Lady’s newspaper column with the famous quote, “He thinks that we are not going to eat it, but we are.”

The Turning Point

Mrs. Roosevelt championed the cause so well, the very first “subsistence homestead” was planned for West Virginia on 1102 acres of farmland purchased from Richard Arthur, the namesake of Arthurdale. Once he was the wealthy owner of the first electric company in Pennsylvania, but he could no longer upkeep his 22-room mansion or afford the taxes on the property that fetched him $45,000.

Between 1933 and 1937, the 165 families from Scotts Run settled into their new homes, each with up to four acres of farmland. The first group occupied 50 pre-fabricated Hodgson Houses with full basements, followed by 75 two-story, cinder block and frame Wagner Houses with root cellars and out buildings, and finally Stone Houses with stone fireplaces and stone veneer exteriors. All of the homes had indoor plumbing and electricity, a comfort they once only dared to dream about.

The homes were featured brick fireplaces, wooden paneling and floors, built-in bookcases, colonial style furniture, refrigerators, and the government provided curtains and bed linens.

They were the fortunate ones who survived a 25-page questionnaire that asked, among other things, “Which side of the cow do you milk? Are you a Democrat or a Republican” If you borrow tools, do you give them back? Do you get along with your family?” They even traced their hands and feet, checking for abnormalities. The mentally ill, alcoholics were undesirable, and only African-Americans and immigrants were given aptitude tests. Happily married couples caring for their children fit the profile of Arthurdale homesteaders, but only if they were American-born whites.

Mrs. Roosevelt was most disappointed in the screening process, but the Department of Interior was in charge and they said there were no funds allocated for a school for non-white students. The First Lady hoped eventually the population would be integrated and continued with her efforts to make Arthurdale a success.

Making It Work

Arthurdale’s overnight transformation was viewed somewhat skeptically by some reporters who felt such close government involvement bordered on communism. Mrs. Roosevelt’s syndicated newspaper column, My Day, revealed the remarkable progress she saw during her regular visits to Arthurdale. The children no longer went to bed hungry, instead they were well fed, healthy and happy. The residents worked hard, planting fruits and vegetables and rearing cows and pigs. There was enough food to feed the families and provide school lunches.

Even while some Congress members ridiculed Arthurdale as the First Lady’s “pet project” Mrs. Roosevelt’s determination never wavered. She was never shy about taking her wealthy friends along on frequent visits to the homesteaders or asking for donations. Financier Bernard Baruch and his industrialist friends, the Guggenheim family made contributions, as did Dorothy Elmhurst and Doris Duke, the richest woman in the world at that time.

She also became a benefactor providing Instruments for the community band, toys for the children at Christmas, snowsuits for the nursery school toddlers and paying teachers’s salaries. She attended all the graduation ceremonies, signing the diplomas, and in 1938 brought FDR as the guest speaker, his only commencement address as president.

They all remembered how much she enjoyed square dancing to the refrain “Sixteen hands and circle to the left/Halfway ‘round, chase ‘em back/Lady in front and gent to her back/Pat your honey on the head/If she don’t like biscuits give her cornbread.”

Factories to manufacture shirts, vacuum cleaners and tractors closed within two years of opening. Handcrafted items and a furniture-making project turned out Godlove chairs, pewter, copper and iron works, pottery, hand-knitted and woven items, but again, most people could not afford higher-priced craftsmanship in the depression years.

By 1941, FDR’s political responsibilities had shifted to Word War II and Arthurdale became a $2M liability and the homes and surrounding buildings were sold, and once again Eleanor Roosevelt became their dedicated supporter.

She would never forget the families and they felt a lot of affection for her. Times got tougher during the war years, but she never stayed away.

The Legacy Lives On

Arthurdale is often referred to as an experiment, but the community spirit that exists to this very day has outshone the impersonal image of the thirties. Through the dedication of the 24-member non-profit corporation and staff (some of whom are descendants of the homesteaders), visitors are welcome to explore the restored area that includes the homestead museum, a Wagner House, a forge, a service station and the historic Center Hall with a craft shop.

When you visit you may be fortunate to meet Jennifer Marie Bonnette, a homesteader’s granddaughter, who is also the executive direction of the corporation (making her a double authority on facts.)

Jennifer says the museum was created through the early efforts of Arthurdale’s 3,000 residents who held fund-raising dinners. “All the items we have in our museum are donated,” she says. “Our forge alone has 1,500 pieces and they were original pieces that were used here by the blacksmiths. Many of the families cherish these items and they were just waiting for a place to proudly display them.”

Jennifer’s homesteader grandparents were the last couple in their home up to two years ago. Married for 70 years and still living in her original home, Hazel Bonnette, 90, survives her husband, Claude, who was 92. They were newly married when Mr. Bonnette signed up for the project because he could not find a job.

Hazel’s Dutch family had a large dairy farm in Morgantown, while Claude’s mother was Shawnee Indian and his father was French with 11 family members. The name was originally Bonnett, but Jennifer says her grandfather got upset at the French one day and added the “e” to his name. “When I grew up in Arthurdale none of this was discussed, not even with my grandparents,” says Jennifer. “You saw highway markers and you saw all this in ruins.”

It was during her last years at the University of West Virginia that Jennifer returned to Arthurdale to rate the museum for an assignment. “I got addicted to it and I started to work in Arthurdale,” she says. “After that my grandfather was just really proud of me and we talked more and these wonderful stories about his life came pouring out.”

Just like many of the other homesteaders, the Bonnetts were ecstatic about their move to Arthurdale and they marveled at the green grass, blue skies and their nice. little white house. It was a place where they knew children could go to school and enjoy the outdoors, far away from the coal dust that plagued them in Scotts Run.

Claude Bonnette met Mrs. Roosevelt on several occasions. He knew that everyone was awestruck and nervous because she was the First Lady, but she won them over by being really down to earth.

Jennifer, like many of the descendants, contributes many personal stories about some of the displays. Her favorite is about a little checker-board in the museum. “My great uncle carried it aboard the Destroyer. His job was to watch for the Japanese who would be dive-bombing so he would be up in the crow’s nest and he didn’t have anything with him other than that game to play, so it survived all the way through World War II and he brought it back,” she says.

But the story doesn’t end there because Jennifer has a confession to make. “Like children do, we got a hold of it and lost half of the pieces, and now I’ve got it and I wish that I would have taken better care of it and not lost all those pieces.”
 

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