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No sooner had we climbed the stairway to the inn with lush floral window boxes,
than we came face to face with turn-of-the-century elegance, the townhouse
originally owned by wealthy Irish immigrant Owen Foley, and his wife, Honoria.
Parlor scenes unfolded slowly as twinkling chandeliers, imposing mantelpieces
and eclectic décor surrounded us. It was Old Savannah all over again, and,
believe it or not, the brass lamp from the movie, Gone with the Wind, is there
too.
This is Savannah, Georgia’s first city, alive with British overtones in a
subtropical climate. It was General James Edward Oglethorpe who founded state
and city in 1733 and then mapped out the famous grid-patterned streetscape and
public squares.
Over two centuries later, Savannah boasts the largest National Historic Landmark
District, although in the fifties nearly one-third of the city had disappeared,
repercussions of the cotton’s demise and war times. Cotton made a comeback in
the post-war years, but the boll weevil wiped out the industry for good, and the
city almost became a ghost town.
 With
18 specially named guestrooms, the inn occupies two townhouses (14 and 16 West
Hull Street) in Chippewa Square. Grimthrop was my exquisitely furnished room,
while Bridget’s was Wrest House. I adored my gorgeous canopy bed and Bridget
enjoyed her oversized whirlpool bath, especially after long walks. Everywhere
there are treasured American, English and French antiques and cozy fireplaces in
17 rooms still work.
This Victorian inn has accommodation that comes with more than a view, such as
the Essex suite with a grand parlor room and Baby Grand piano (ideal for
romantics), or you may request one with a balcony or private courtyard access.
“The view” overlooks Chippewa Square where General Oglethorpe stands
immortalized in bronze by Daniel Chester French. That was also the location for
the movie, Forest Gump, where a melancholy Tom Hanks sat on a bench at the bus
stop, clutching a box of chocolates as he reminisced about his past.
Most of all, you won’t escape Southern comfort. Breakfast, afternoon tea and
complimentary wine with hors d’oeuvres are served in the tradition of Savannah’s
historic inns, and Foley House favorites include Salmon and Cheddar Strata, Corn
Scramble and Mini Lemon Dill Salmon Patties.
www.foleyinn.com
 Savannah
is a gourmand’s delight, but the unwritten code is to try everything from chic
to inexpensive restaurants. The popular ones include the Olde Pink House,
River’s End, 17Hundred 90 and Bistro Savannah for a dinner rendezvous.
Family-style Southern home cooking are served at the ever-popular The Lady &
Sons, Elizabeth on 37th, Tubby’s Tank House and the recently re-opened Mrs.
Wilkes Dining Room. It’s wise to make reservations at the over 50 bistros, pubs,
grills and cafes in the restaurant circuit to avoid lineups or disappointment.
Like the bestseller expose, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil by John
Berendt, the city can be compelling. Southern living tempered by European charm
and beauty befits the “Lady” as some like to call Savannah.
The Lady’s fortunes rose and fell with those cultivated by “white gold” (cotton)
and the Revolutionary War and the Civil War, but by 1864 a surrender to General
William Tecumseh Sherman had the General “delivering” Savannah as a Christmas
present to President Abraham Lincoln (by way of that legendary telegram.)
The city’s pride shines on its landmarks, but the Westin Savannah Harbor Golf
Resort on Hutchinson Island is above par for accommodation, albeit modern, just
an 800-yard water taxi ride away. We enjoyed the friendliness of the staff, but
it was John who was exceptionally good-natured. We wanted to learn how
Savannah’s mysterious past could be unraveled by taking a Ghost Talk Ghost Walk*
frightseeing tour one evening, but our major concern was getting back to the
resort. Without hesitating, John volunteered to remain on duty until we had
returned on the shuttle (and he did!)
(*See SPIRITED BY SAVANNAH in our Young World section)
 Dining
at the resort’s Aqua Star restaurant overlooking the river is absolutely out of
this world as the scenes below rivals the menu. Every soup, salad or appetizer
was tempting, but we settled on Aqua Star Lump Crab Cake and Hand Dipped Island
Shrimp. The moist crab cake was accompanied by a very tasty tomato okra roasted
corn relish, while the shrimp was served with sweet chili pepper glaze,
artistically arranged atop a carved section of pineapple.
The entrée features that caught our eyes were Cedar Planked Salmon and Angel
Hair Aqua Star for us. My salmon was a melt-in-your-mouth delicacy, lightly
seasoned and drizzled with a Port wine syrup, while Bridget’s choice was a
creation of sautéed shrimp with extra virgin olive oil, garlic, diced tomatoes,
basil, lemon and white wine over angel hair pasta.
 The irresistible desserts were Key Lime Pie (with mango coulis), Double Fudge
Chocolate Cake, Deep Dish Pecan Pie, The Chef’s Crème Brulee, Cheese Cake (with
strawberry compote), Ice Cream and Raspberry Sorbet. We recommend the first two
mouth-watering temptations, but we’ll let you decide on the coffee - Bittersweet
(Bailey’s Irish Crème, Grand Marnier & Kahlua, Forever Amber (Kahlua and Brandy)
and Jezebel (Crème de Cacao and Peppermint Schnapps.) Cordial lovers can choose
from Armagnacs, Ports, Cognacs and Sherry.
www.westinsavannah.com
The city’s treasured National Historic Landmark District (the largest in the
nation) encompasses two-and-a-half square miles leading from the bustling
riverfront to the more sedate homes restored in 18th and 19th century period
styles.
Davenport House on State Street follows the Federal or Neo-Classical lines,
while the King-Tisdell Cottage on Harris Street is from the Victoria era of
gingerbread designs. Savannah landmarks built during the English Regency period
include the Juliette Gordon Low Birthplace Museum, the Telfair Museum of Art and
the Owens-Thomas House.
 The
famous Mercer House on Monterey Square is Savannah’s finest example of
Italianate architecture, while two churches featured the Greek and Roman Revival
style, Christ Episcopal Church and First African Baptist Church. The Romantic
Revival is evident at the Savannah Cotton Exchange built in 1886 and the Gothic
Revival outlines of the lofty spires of the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist
are located on Abercorn Street. The Green Meldrim House on Madison Square was
also built during that period and is partcularly significant because it was
Union General William T. Sherman’s Savannah headquarters.
 The Sea Cabins on River Street are located on the waterfront, and are actually
apartment/suites with balconies overlooking the river and the cobblestone
street. It’s an ideal spot for easy access to the waterfront scene and there is
private parking. Indulge in breakfast at Huey’s Restaurant (southern food
specializing in New Orleans Creole and Cajun cuisine) for a front seat view of
the huge ships blaring their horns and diminutive tugboats whistling up and down
river. We even had beignets as a treat. Afterwards catch a trolley tour of the
city sights, noting some for later exploration.
Abandoned for over a century, the cotton warehouses on the riverfront have been
converted into shops, art galleries, restaurants, pubs, hotels and inns. There
are 19 historic landmarks located in the historic waterfront area including the
Olympic Games Monument, Waving Girl Statue, Old City Exchange Bell, Savannah
Cotton Exchange, Oglethorpe Landing Monument and U.S. Customs House.
 By
the time we meet innkeeper Mai Evans at The Olde Georgian Inn it was almost time
to say goodbye to Savannah, yet our welcome seems like a homecoming. If you’ve
always wanted to sleep in a mansion, hasten to the inn. The rooms are as pretty
as their floral monikers, Azalea, Magnolia, Camellia and Gardenia, and so is the
the Honeysuckle Carriage House with a rooftop deck.
Evans, 30, is a beautiful, petite bundle of youthful energy who loves having
company at the inn. Three years ago she switched careers to be close to her
newborn daughter, Tsehai, and become an innkeeper. Within months she transformed
The Olde Georgian Inn with classic antique furnishings that include a walnut
baby grand piano, the same vintage as the 1890 mansion. Feel like tickling the
ivories? Go ahead, sing up a storm and have a great time, the innkeeper fully
approves!
A love of art, old and new, is another innovative step Evans takes to enhance
the inn’s main floor. Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) students are
invited to hold “gallery” openings at the inn and exhibit their work for sale.
Indulging her guests for breakfast daily (Monday to Saturday) with a repertoire
of salmon croquettes, crab cakes and the venerable fried chicken and waffles is
another irresistible trait of Evans. Sounds tempting? How about her favorites,
Savannah French toast (French bread stuffed with sautéed peaches and cinnamon)
and shrimp and grits (shrimp in a butter based sauce with peppers, onion and
garlic) Sunday breakfast is at The Firefly or Cobble Stone Café in the downtown
Historic District, another chance to feast on more “Low Country” cuisine.
Two blocks away on Bull Street, between Gaston and Park Avenue, is Forsyth Park,
lined with spectacular live oaks and Spanish moss tunnels where locals walk,
jog, roller-blade, bike and picnic daily. It’s nice to idle by the sprays coming
from the 20-acre park centerpiece, a white, two-tiered, cast iron fountain,
surrounded by ornate tritons and swans, all playfully spouting more water.
A walkabout takes us past intricate ironwork on gates, balconies, stair railings
and garden lamps as we head to Monterey Square for a close-up look at Savannah’s
most famous residence Mercer House. The red brick house was built by the
grandfather of Savannah’s renowned songwriter, Johnny Mercer (Moon River, Days
of Wine and Roses, Jeepers Creepers), but that’s hardly on anyone’s mind when
they walk, run or drive past the mansion. Instead it’s the salacious details
revealed in John Berendt’s expose, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, that
catapulted the site and the city to fame.
“The Book” as locals call the runaway best-seller, centered on Jim Williams, a
wealthy antique dealer, who fatally shot his companion in the house in 1981.
Following Williams’ death in 1990, a movie based on the book was released in
1997, fueling more curiosity as the years go by. Mercer House is now a private
home owned by Williams’ sister who operates a gift shop in the carriage house.
Further up Bull Street is the Juliette Gordon Low Birthplace that only allows us
to admire its exterior English Regency lines, since it’s closed on Wednesdays.
Owned by the Girl Scouts of the United States of America, the program center and
museum honoring the founder of the Girl Scouts became the city’s first National
Historic Landmark in 1965.
A 20-minute walk takes us to the City Market, a four-block pedestrian
marketplace located on Jefferson at West Saint Julian Street. Old grain
warehouses are now studios and galleries where local artists to showcase their
talent. Unique boutiques, a variety of restaurants and a great candy store are
fun to explore. The courtyard is a venue for entertainment on most weekends or
holidays and carriage rides are another favorite pastime around here.
Strolling in the vicinity of The Olde Georgian Inn is most enjoyable especially
during the morning when it’s relatively quiet and the dew is still fresh on the
leaves and flowers.
www.oldegeorgianinn.com
 Leaving
Savannah is not easy. I already miss the hand-made pralines (although I brought
home lots), the quaint neighborhoods, the canopied squares and the delicious
food.
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