At the time in Scottish history when “ Loch Lomond” was a new song, the United Kingdom ( Scotland, England and Wales) had already been formed. The Highland Scots wanted a Scottish, not an English King to rule and led by their Bonnie Prince Charlie (Prince Charles Edward Stuart) they attempted unsuccessfully to depose Britain’s King George II. An army of 7,000 Highlanders were defeated on April 16, 1746 at the famous “Battle of Culloden Moor.”
This battle indirectly gives rise to this beautiful song. After the battle, many Scottish soldiers were imprisoned within England’s Carlisle castle near the border of Scotland. “ Loch Lomond” tells the story of two Scottish soldiers who were so imprisoned. One of them was to be executed, while the other was to be set free. According to Celtic legend if someone dies in a foreign land, his spirit will travel to his homeland by “the low road”- the route for the souls of the dead. In the song, the spirit of the dead soldier shall arrive first, while the living soldier will take the “high road” over the mountains, to arrive afterwards.
While Scotland may well be one of the smallest countries in Europe, the nation and its people have certainly made their presence felt. William Wallace, Rob Roy and Robert the Bruce are names which are recognized the world over and it is somewhat because of Hollywood movies with Mel Gibson and Liam Neeson, bringing them back to life.
Historical heroes and the Scottish themselves are responsible for the popularity of the country as a holiday destination. How can you not enjoy the company of someone with a Scottish accent? The country’s other biggest asset is its scenery. From the heather-covered mountains and glassy lakes to the castles and many historical sites and those Highland cows and glens speckled with sheep!
Scotland’s most famous loch (lake), celebrated in the song “Loch Lomond” is now at the centre of a National Park and is the gateway to the long sea-lochs of the west, with their mossy oak woods and mild airs. Great gardens, wonderful views, plus Ben Nevis are some of the features.
From Glasgow International airport we went to Loch Lomond Shores, the most spectacular visitor destination combining the beautiful environment with an outstanding mixture of leisure and shopping experiences overlooking the majesty of Loch Lomond at Balloch. www.lochlomondshores.com.
With Scottish grace and enthusiasm, Jean Blair, a blue-badge tour guide led our group on this Highland segment of our tour. www.stga.co.uk John Bryan of Woods Coaches drove us from Glasgow to Inverness safely, always with good humor.
During our seven-day trip, we visited a selection of the country’s top sites of historical significance, including the battlefields of Culloden and Glencoe and Skara Brae, the best preserved prehistoric village in northern Europe dating back to 3,000 B.C.
We had the opportunity to meet true Highlanders and experience the Highland culture, history and ancestry. On paths less traveled, we took to the newly rejuvenated Highland capital, Inverness, to the island community of Orkney and the gateway to western isles
Our first castle stop was at Inverary Castle after a pleasant lunch at Brambles Tearoom in Inveraray. I got my first taste of Scottish soup, which followed me throughout the trip. I had to have soup at every meal. Reluctant to try it at first, I became very fond of haggis.
The Duke of Argyll’s family, the senior branch of the Campbell Clan, moved to Inveraray in 15th century. The present building, in the style of a castle was erected between 1745 and 1785 to replace an earlier traditional fortified keep (inner stronghold of a castle) and marks the beginning of more settled times in the country.
On display you can see the famous Armory collection, French tapestries and fine examples of Scottish and European furniture, a wealth of works of art together with a genealogical display in The Clan Room. www.inveraray-castle.com
Glencoe Visitor Centre set the stage for my Scottish experience. Glencoe is part of National Trust for Scotland and is famous for its dramatic landscape and wildlife. I discovered how a glen (valley) was formed and enjoyed a video of historical information.
www.glencoe-nts.org.uk
We traveled north to Loch Ness, but there was no monster in sight so we had lunch at Urquhart Castle café - Scottish soup of the day and an egg sandwich. The Urquhart Castle on the banks of Loch Ness provided a good photo op viewed from the café terrace. Here were the remains of an impressive stronghold in a ruinous state. www.historic-scotland.gov.uk
At Culloden House Hotel fortune found me in bedroom where Tony Blair slept. Dinner was a gourmet delight. Hootenanny experience that evening was a pleasure at Scottish Gaelic bar in Inverness. No smoking ban in Scotland was in force, which made the evening most enjoyable as I sipped on non-alcohol drink Irn Bru and listened to Scottish music. Sadly my souvenir can of Irn Bru, was confiscated at the airport due to the ban on carry-on liquids. www.cullodenhouse.co.uk
Cawder Castle is a fairytale castle that has been the home of the Thanes of Cawdor since 1370, romantically linked by Shakespeare with Macbeth. The medieval tower and drawbridge are still intact and the house contains collections of tapestries, pictures, furniture and books. Our tour was lucky to have Lady Cawdor as our guide. That was a super special treat and her love of her castle showed. Here I saw my first Highland cow. What a beautiful red-haired cow. I found Highland cow postcards to send my friends and a pin of Highland cow adorned my jacket . www.cawdorcastle.com .
Culloden Battlefield, near Inverness was our last stop in the Highlands. Here was the scene of the last major battle fought on mainland Britain, and visitors can actually walk on the battlefield. www.nts.org.uk
Once in Orkney, Michael and Christine from WILABOUTORKNEY Tour (www.wildaboutorkney.com) took us to Sands Hotel, our “home” for two nights. www.sandshotel.com
The Orkney Islands lie six miles to the north of Scottish Mainland. This flourishing archipelago of 70 islands has a vibrant culture, abundant wildlife and spectacular scenery. Seventeen of the Orkney Islands are inhabited. With Neolithic Pictish and Viking heritage, Orkney has over 1,000 recorded archeological sites, including a World Heritage Site dating more than 5,500 years ago. www.visitorkney.com
Broch of Gurness dates to the 1st century AD and gives insight into Orcadian village life around 2,000 years ago www.historic-scotland.gov.uk
Skara Brae Prehistoric Village was discovered when a wild storm in 1850 exposed the ruins of these ancient dwellings. The excavated farming settlement dates back 5,000 years. www.historic-scotland.gov.uk
In Stromness, we visited Stromness Museum, one of the oldest museums in Scotland. Orkney’s strong seafaring tradition was on display as well as its history. Many Orcadians in 18th and 19th centuries left the port of Stromness to join the ships of the Hudson Bay Company bound for a new life in Canada. The diorama of Dr. John Rae, the Arctic explorer was one of the focal points of the museum.
Five thousand years ago, people in Orkney buried their dead in large tombs, which they covered with soil to make small hillocks. Maes Howe is the finest. It consists of a large chamber and several smaller chambers. It was broken into in mid-twelfth century by Viking crusaders who carved graffiti on the walls of the main chamber. In 1999, it was designated as a World Heritage Site with Skara Brae, Ring of Brodgar and the Stones of Stenness.
Ring of Brodgar Stone Circle, which once consisted of 60 stones may have been placed here to study the moon’s movements or for religious ceremonies. They were used for about 1,000 years. Stenness Circle and hedge once consisted of 12 stones surrounded by a ditch.
We checked into Lynnfield Hotel in Kirkwall for two nights. www.lynnfieldhotel.com and then toured The Highland Park Distillery, observing traditional methods of making Single Malt Scotch Whiskey. www.highlands.com.uk
Next on our itinerary were Kirkwall’s attractions - St. Magnus Cathedral built in Romanesque-style in 1137 when island still ruled by Norway. Bishop’s Palace and Earl’s Palace described as the most accomplished piece of Renaissance architecture left in Scotland. Before departing Orkney we toured the Italian Chapel built in 1940 by Italian prisoners of war and our final night of entertainment featured local folk singers and storytellers at The Wrigley Sisters Centre for Traditional Music, then it was back to Glasgow to overnight at One Devonshire Gardens. www.onedevenshiregardens.com
Farewell Scotland until we meet again on the bonnie bonnie banks of Loch Lomond!