ESCAPE TO SALZBURGText and Photography by PamelaAnn Campbell
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Salzburg, Austria: Like a flirtatious and beautiful woman, Salzburg has a reputation. Like it or not, Mozart would just be Mozart and there would be no Mirabell Palace to intrigue visitors.
The musical boy-genius named Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart raised more than a few eyebrows when he fled Salzburg for a new life. And even more feathers were ruffled when Prince-Archbishop Wolf-Dietrich von Raitenau built his mistress, Salome Alt, a magnificent palace. Centuries later, Salzburg is enveloped in Mozartmania and the prince-archbishop’s “monumental” legacy lives on. Austria’s Baroque City Mountains frame the Baroque city, Monchsberg to the north and Kapuzinerberg to the south. With the Salzach River running through Salzburg the Neustadt (new city) comes alive and the Alstadt (old town) is packed with endless charm. In the company of the engaging Oda Kalas, a local guide, we go for a walk on both sides of Salzburg. This quick overview comes in handy for a self-guided tour later, but remember one visit is never long enough to enjoy the numerous churches, castles, museums, homes and squares this city has preserved. The Neustadt The Mirabell Gardens is a maze of colorful blooms and shrubs and the 1606 palace is famous for its staircase and the Marble Hall where Mozart often |
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played in his younger days. Follow the Makartplatz to the Marionette Theatre and the International Mozarteum Foundation, a music center dedicated to Salzburg’s favorite son. Number 8 Markartplatz is the Audio and Video Museum, once the Mozart family home from 1773 to 1780.
Just off Linzergasse (“the” street for shopping in Salzburg) is St. Sebastian’s Church and Cemetery (1595-1600), the final resting place of Mozart’s wife, Constanze, and his dad, Leopold. Not just in life, but in death Prince-Archbishop Wolf-Eitrich von Raitenau’s imposing mausoleum (Gabriel Chapel) says volumes about his ego (that his memory lives on with a memorial he had built during his lifetime.) The Altstadt The Staatsbrucke (bridge) crosses the Salzach River into the Altstadt where Getreidegasse still attracts attention for the wrought-iron signs and Geburthaus, the house at number 9 where Mozart was born on January 27, 1756. In the vicinity are the old Town Hall and the Alter Markt, once the liveliest marketplace in old Salzburg. Cafe Tomaselli (Alter Markt 9) is a welcome stop during a hectic day of sightseeing. There are 22 varieties of tea, hot chocolate and coffee on the menu. And there’s more: sandwiches, cakes, beverages, beer, cocktails, wines, spirits and special summer and winter drinks, and the place is never empty! Read a newspaper, have a chat, make friends, it’s all part of the culture and maybe you’ll decide to bring home one of the famously delicious Sacher Torte (Euros 18.17) – I did!
A statue of Mozart by Ludwig Schwantaler stands in Mozartplatz, while overlooking the square is the tiny pink Church of St. Michael that dates back to A.D.800. The palace and cathedral at Residenzplatz materialized as Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich’s dream, “the Rome of the North” after a fire destroyed the old city. Adjoining the Residenz is the Domplatz, the cathedral square where the annual Jedermann Festival and the Advent Market are held. St. Peter’s Abbey is a Benedictine monastery (A.D.700) built in the late Baroque style up against the Monchsberg mountain. Two noteworthy facts: the front marble portal dates back to 1244 and the Rococo style that was adopted when the building was remodeled in the 18th century. Mozart’s sister, Nannerl, is buried in St. Peter’s Cemetery, one of the oldest and loveliest in the world with trees, flowers and shrubs surrounding the gravesites. The custom in Austria is to pay a rental fee every 10 years for the sites since no one permanently “owns” the spots. Carved into the Monchsberg cliffs are the Catacombs where the medieval monks lived. Looking over the Altstadt
An exhibition at the Burgmuseum shows how the military operations were run at the Fortress, a variety of weapons and torture chambers (that remained unused to this day.) The Rainermuseum recounts the history of the Rainer regiment, Salzburg’s very own regiment in the past. An exhibition room with figurines from the Marionette Theatre is located here – it’s small, but very interesting. Wandering through the courtyard, there are several lookouts beside the tower that present amazing views of the Salzach River and the city’s rooftops. Use the funicular (1892), Austria’s oldest, to reach the fortress in five minutes or climb the stairs. There are little shops at the foot of the fortress selling souvenirs including boxes, packages or canisters of more melt-in-your mouth Echte Salzburger Mozartkugeln and Mozarttaler, and I also found a bottle of Nannerl Elderberry liqueur shaped like a violin. A Fair to Remember Rupertikirtag is a fair held annually to celebrate the birthday (September 24th) of St. Rupert, the founder of Salzburg. In the squares surrounding the Cathedral locals and visitors enjoy carousel rides, beer tents, artisans demonstrating their skills and handicrafts, while vendors sell everything from local food favorites to Austrian costumes, toys and jewelry.
Home decorators would love to meet Michael Steindl who custom designs ceramic ovens and stoves and other specialty items. His dad and grandfather worked in the same business producing different varieties of floor and wall tiles. The stove and oven on display had three drawers, the first for the wood to provide heat, the second that filtered air and the third for the ashes. I couldn’t possibly ship a stove or oven home, but I was presented with a souvenir – a beautiful hand-painted ceramic Salzburg coat-of-arms. For Walter Grubl who owns Salzburger Federkiel Stickerei with Herbert Klieber, working on leather belts and bags is a labor of love. At first Grubl looked for old belts and gradually learned the art. For 15 years he has produced unique designs using original patterns. He embroiders each intricate design using a special awl threaded with strips from the stem of peacock feathers. It’s a slow process that requires rapt attention and patience galore (I know, I watched him at work.) Grubl says it can take an entire day for a handbag to be embroidered and much longer if he has to copy the design from a sketch. Small wonder his handiwork are highly prized and priced. Small belts and bags are priced from Euros250, while big belts known as “ranzen” cost between Euros 600 and 2,900. Personalized items can also be made to order if customers have something special in mind. The company has shipped orders within Austria and Southern Germany, and as far away as Texas, Australia and Japan. www.federkiel.at Mozart Dinner Concert Only the language of music is spoken at the tables in the elegant Baroque hall of Restaurant Stiftskeller St. Peter as the music of Mozart fills the air in concert. We are here to enjoy a candlelight dinner prepared in centuries-old tradition, Italians, Spanish and Canadians intent on enjoying the evening. Salzburg musicians and singers in period costumes perform stirring renditions of Mozart’s most powerful and popular compositions between our three-course dinner. “Salzburger Divertimento” sets the mood for “Notte giomo” followed by “Batti, batti o bel Mosetta” and “Madamino, il catalogo...” 1.Teil before the duet, “La ci darem la mano.”
The second set of songs included “Non piu andrai...” and “Deh vieni non tardar...”, while the final set featured duets from the world-famous “Magic Flute” – “Bei Mannem welche Liebe fuhlen!” and “Pa-pa-pa.” Were we thrilled? Yes! And it was really wonderful to “be a guest of Mozart” even if was just make believe!
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The music of Mozart intoxicates Salzburg and his image appears on just about every souvenir imaginable, but none as irresistible as Mozartkugeln, a marzipan ball surrounded by nougat cream and covered with bittersweet chocolate. The famous red and gold boxes are sold in all sizes and shapes, but the octagonal ones are the most famous. Although they are no longer hand shaped and dipped Mirabell Echte Salzburger Mozartkugeln and the newest introduction, Mozarttaler (nugget,) continue to tempt us with “the taste that enchants you.” iwww.mozartkugel.at
The Hohensalzburg Fortress is perched on Monchsberg’s rocky outcrop, 400 feet above the old town. The 11th century castle is the largest, fully preserved fortification throughout Europe. It’s almost like wandering around a medieval village – room to room exhibits, a watchtower and two museums.
I met Leopold Pfeifenberger, a jeweler who spoke of his love for restoring timepieces, big and small. His expertise in the trade was culled from his father and today he has clients from around the world who seek his services. Before I walked away from his counter he said, “I have a special gift for you, it is very old” and then he slipped a small clock part in my hand. Of course, it remains in my traveler’s treasure chest, along with other souvenirs from my many trips.
The menu rivals the music, but both are enjoyable: Lemonibruh mit Zimt (cream soup with cinnamon), Maishendbrust in der Bertramsoss dazu Erdapfelktspferl und Brimzessbohnen (breast of chicken on a cress sauce with potatoes and beans) and Mozarts Sisses Geheimnis (Mozart’s sweet secret – frozen parfait of honey on two sauces.