IRRESISTIBLY YOURS, INNSBRUCK

Once in 1964, and then again in 1976, the world watched as thousands of athletes vied for gold medals at the Winter Olympics in this Alpine city. And for over 500 years The Golden Roof (Goldenes Dachl) has continued to captivate the gaze of millions.

A sports mecca to some, a cultural center to others, but to me the Tyrol’s provincial capital is a natural dazzler.

Cradled in the valley of the Inn River by mountains, the 2,334-meter-high Nordkette to the north and the Patscherkofel at 2,247 meters to the south, the city’s strategic location on a vital east-west link also spans the north-south trading route of the Alps.

History traces Bronze Age man to the city’s ancient beginnings, and over 2,000 years ago Roman settlers occupied Veldidena, later to become Innsbruck, where the first bridge, “bruck” in German, was built over the Inn River 800 years ago.

It’s 255 kilometers from Salzburg, a very picturesque way to approach the city’s snow capped mountains with clouds billowing beneath each peak like a gigantic chimney, past Alpine villages, forests and meadows in storybook fashion.

As a guest at Hotel Europa Tyrol, the city’s exclusive (and only) five-star establishment, it’s not only the central location that matters. The 108 rooms and 14 luxury suites contain splendid furnishings, Oriental carpets and marble bathrooms, and the staff are very efficient and gracefully accommodate guests to the point of showing off the Barock Saal, the ballroom designed and completed by King Ludwig’s Bavarian architects and builders. The Europastuberl restaurant on the ground floor serves award-winning cuisine, including delicious Tyrolean fare.

Built in 1869, it was originally the Grand Hotel de Europe, and since then it has developed a guest list of royalty and state visitors. “This is the most beautiful place in Innsbruck to celebrate a special occasion,” Ludwig II, King of Bavaria, once said. Among the illustrious guests at the Hotel Europa Tyrol were Queen Elizabeth II, the Shah of Iran, General Patton and the Apollo 14 crew.

When Peter arrives for our tour of Domkirche zu St.Jacob (Cathedral of St. James) it’s raining cats and dogs. Armed with umbrellas loaned by the friendly concierge, we walk towards the church that was rebuilt between 1717 and 1724 (after a devastating earthquake) according to Baroque architect Johann Jakob Herkommer’s design.

Viewing the marvelous frescoes on the ceiling and stucco designs by the Asam brothers, Cosmas Damian and Egyd Quirin, almost render me speechless by their beauty. Other highlights include the Maria Hilf (Mary of Succor) portrait by Lucas Cranach the Elder on the high altar, dating from about 1520, and the ornate tomb of Archduke Maximilian III who died in 1620.

Although Innsbruck has countless historic sights, Swarovski Crystal Worlds in nearby Wattens is a pseudo-modern treasure of crystal art dedicated to celebrating Daniel Swarovski’s dream that started there in 1895. If you like crystal, you’ll love the exhibits, and it’s a good idea to leave your watch behind so you can enjoy your visit thoroughly. Next time I promise Angelika I’ll try to keep pace with her. - Please see “Bedazzled by a Giant”in our Out of this World section for the full story.

All the way from Wattens to the Hungerburg mountain plateau it rains, but we head up to the Hungerburg mountain plateau (872 meters) by the cable railway (Hungerburbahn) for “the best view of Innsbruck” which is true even if it’s a bit dull on this day. It’s tempting to take the Nordkette cable railway to the Seegrube, then the Hafelkar (2,335 meters) for dramatic views of the peaks and glaciers in the Alps that somehow seem much more magnificent at closer range. Unfortunately, Angelika advises there would be nothing beyond the clouds for us to see. After a quick look around the only gift shop open to purchase postcards, we decide on a walking tour.

Exploring the Alstadt, Innsbruck’s Old Town, is a reminder of the way the medieval town once flourished with Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque buildings, many of them still standing today. Strict building codes ensure that any construction must conform to the character of the existing buildings that make this a true medieval town.

Most visitors enter the downtown area after 10:30 a.m. when it’s off-limits to motorized traffic. Innsbruck’s cobblestone streets are made for wandering. Although my German is non-existent I can discern who sells what by their doorknobs or hanging signs (pretzel/bakery, fish/fish and chips shop etc.)

Innsbruck has a “curiosity” shop of sorts on Stiftgasse and Angelika is only too glad to show off “the smallest shop” that earns this distinction because only one customer can enter the tiny Speckschwemme at a time. Behind the counter is a smiling shopkeeper who stocks sausages in all shapes and sizes, along with “speck” - a preserved meat that looks like like thinly sliced ham of the prosciutto variety. To the left as you exit is Herbert Signor’s wine shop stocked with 200 varieties, and he is always glad to pour visitors a sample and pose for photographs with a big smile. Signor also sells schnapps made from a variety of fruits such a plum apricot, berry or pear – so potent I’ll warn you that “bottoms up” can bring you down to earth so fast you won’t know what has hit you!

On Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse stands the famous Golden Roof (Goldenes Dachl), a-glitter with 14 kilos of gold on 2,657 gilded roof tiles. The city’s centuries-old symbol has an ornate two-tiered balcony built in 1500 by Niklas Turing for Emperor Maximilian I who enjoyed watching tournaments and dancing in the city square below from the late Gothic oriel of his royal box. Innsbruck became an imperial city under Maximilian as he envisaged it to be the nucleus of his empire.

Today, visitors are the spectators and Maximilian is the focus of our attention. Look at the balustrade with six sandstone reliefs featuring the Emperor and his two wives surrounded by Morisco dancers. His beloved first wife, Mary of Burgundy, died when she fell off her horse while hunting, while his marriage to Bianca Maria Sforza of Milan was said to be a loveless one. Maximilian’s image also appears with the Chancellor, who may have been his predecessor, Sigismund the Rich, along with a court jester.

Since 1996The Golden Roof houses a municipal building with the Maximilianeum, a small museum where a video presentation presents an insightful look at the Emperor’s reign, along with period costumes, coins and portraits.

Directly below The Golden Roof are many little shops with great merchandise, but one particular window display is so eye-catching I stop at Tirol Bliem Gold und Silberschmiede. The store specializes in Edelweiss filigree jewelry and garnets. Click here for Edelweiss My Love, the full story.

Nearby is Hofburg, the 15th century imperial palace of Maximilian that Maria Theresa had re-built during the 18th century in the Baroque style, although her stay would be short-lived with the sudden death of her husband, Franz Stephan.

The Hofkirche, the Gothic Court Church is famous for the 28 Black Figures, oversized bronze statues that stand guard around Maximilian’s empty sarcophagus, along with 24 marble reliefs reflecting his lifetime achievements. His body is entombed in Wiener Neustadt, his birthplace.

Heading south the Old Town leads to the Maria-Theresien-Strasse, Innsbruck’s main street that runs through the city from north to south. In olden days people traveled along this street to get across the Brenner Pass from Italy and continued into Germany. Today it’s a great shopping district for local handicrafts and if you want a break from sightseeing turn to the locals dressed in typical Tirolean outfits.

There are many 17th and 18th century palaces on the street, including Tyrol’s most prominent Baroque building, the Old Landhaus. On guided tours of The Landtagssaal more stucco work and a ceiling fresco by Cosmas Damian Asam can be admired. Across the south end of this street is the Triumphal Arch built in 1765 – a symbol of joy and sorrow. While celebrating the marriage of Leopold (then Duke of Tuscany, and later Emperor Leopold II) and the Spanish Infanta Maria Ludovica. Empress Maria Theresa’s beloved husband, Franz I, died of a heart attack. The street becomes Leopoldstrasse from the arch as it continues southward.

Going north along Maria-Theresien-Strasse is St. Anne’s Column (Annasaule), built to commemorate the withdrawal of the Bavarians in 1703 during the Spanish War of Succession on July 26.

Summer Innsbruck Style

The upcoming summer season in Innsbruck is a haven for fans who love sports and the outdoors. Join the Innsbruck Mountain Walking Program (June to September) for a look at Innsbruck from another angle. Bergfuhrers (mountain guides) from the world-famous AlpinSchule Innsbruck (Innsbruck AlpineSchool) escort visitors on over 40 different hiking and mountaineering trips in the scenic mountains of the Tyrol. Spectacular panoramas, flowering meadows and rustic mountain huts are just part of the scenery on leisurely paced hikes or challenging climbs. This amazing program is free to all participants and includes transportation on the mountain hiker’s bus, a certified mountain guide, tour booklet, hiking shoes and backpack.

Unlimited sports activities extend beyond mountaineering to para-gliding, hang-gliding, tandem parachute jumping, rafting and summer skiing on the glaciers or summer tobagganing on the Olympic run. On a more relaxed scale visitors can golf and play tennis with mountain views a glance away.

Innsbruck’s imperial legacy remains magnificent in this small city in the heart of Tyrol, and nature has bestowed overwhelming beauty in every direction, and once again I find the city absolutely irresistible.