QUEBEC CITY - CHARMING AND UNFORGETTABLE

This is Quebec City filled with old world charm and here we will rendezvous with the past.

The tour begins at Parliament Building on Boulevard Rene-Levesque Est, the seat of the National Assembly. No one goes by the front of this imposing Second Empire style building without noticing the 22 bronze statues permanently on display to honor the historical figures in Quebec's past. They were put there in response to one English politician's claim that the French people had forgotten their history. If you take a closer look at the provincial license plates and Quebec Coat of Arms you will see that it reads "Je me souviens" meaning "We do remember." (Call 418-643-7239 for guided tours)

Along the way we pass numerous cannons which were recovered from the bottom of the sea because ships were not allowed to bring in cannons. They would confiscate them at the port but many sank or crashed due to the heavy winter and they would end up at the bottom of the St.Lawrence River. Today they are display throughout the city with a ball in each cannon (to prevent litterbugs), as photo props for tourists and huge 'toys' that kids enjoy.

Our first stop is at La Promenade des Gouverneurs, which marks the point in Quebec where you stand 270 feet above the St.Lawrence River to enjoy the panoramic view (a really breathtaking sight).

Next we pass the Musee de Quebec, Quebec's national art gallery, which carries the most illustrious permanent collection of Quebec art dating back to colonial days. At the front of the museum there is a statue of Capt. Wolfe on the Plains of Abraham, which prompts our tour guide to tell us the legendary tale of how Wolfe was put in a barrel of rum to preserve his body on the way back to England. (1 rue Wolfe-Montcalm on the Plains of Abraham, telephone 418-643-2150)

One of my favorite sites is the star shaped layout of the Citadel, official residence of the Governor General in French Canada and the Royal 22nd Regiment. Located on top of Cap Diamant, the largest military fortification in North America still upholds military tradition in the summer with the Beating of the Retreat and Changing of the Guards. Decked out in the busby (huge fur hats) these soldiers stand still for hours just like the guards at Buckingham Palace. But I did see them move when it began to rain and both guards simultaneously marched into their little huts. I even posed for a photo beside one of the guards and thought of trying to do something funny to get him to smile. I decided against it as the Quebec City jail is not my idea as the best place to spend a night. (For guided tours call 418-694-2815)

As we slowly make our way into the main section of the city we go past the gunpowder house where they kept all the arms. It was built with a light tin roof so that if it ignited the explosion would go upwards instead of engulfing the surrounding area. Close by is the Club Garrison, the oldest military club in Quebec, which forbade women to enter through the front door in the olden days. Women had to enter in from a back door, until one day one woman said it was ridiculous and walked through the front door, and when a man inside protested she slapped him across the face and from then on women entered the same way as the men did!

Driving through the narrow streets of Quebec City we pass the site where General Montcalm died and see a cannonball lodged at the bottom of a tree in the famous battle between Captain Wolfe, who tried to take Quebec, and Montcalm, who successfully defeated him. They would both die from their wounds, but the story remains chronicled forever in the annals of history.

Our tour brings us to the Chateau Frontenac, the most photographed hotel in the world, and right next to the chateau is the bronze, granite and glass monument erected in 1985 when UNESCO proclaimed Vieux-Quebec a World Heritage Site. Recognized as "the cradle of French civilization" in North America and the only walled city north of Mexico, Quebec was the first North American city center on the list of World Heritage Treasures. (A bit of trivia - the tour route travels along Saint-Jean Street, the first road built between Quebec and Montreal).

We make our final stop at Place Royale which is the birthplace of French Civilization in Canada. Samuel de Champlain, the French explorer, built his first dwelling at the foot of Cap Diamant in 1608, and Place Royale is considered the first permanent French settlement in North America. A tumultuous history of wars between the British and French subsequently devastated the area. (For more information visit the web site for the Interpretation Center of Place-Royale at www.mag.org or telephone 418-6646-3167)

Fifty years later Place Royale attracts visitors with its trendy boutiques and popular restaurants. The area still bears historical significance - this is where you will find Eglise Notre-Dame-des-Victoires, the oldest stone church in North America. The white and gold mosaics inside this Catholic Church are absolutely captivating. Look for the suspended scale model of Le Breze in the church nave - this was the vessel that brought Marquis de Tracy and members of the Carignan Regiment to New France in 1664. (Telephone 418-692-1650 for guided tours)

The tour ends at Quartier Petit-Champlain on Rue du Petit-Champlain where it's best explored on foot. It takes a bit of imagination but it's quite easy to picture this harbor village as a trading post with rich settlers milling around its narrow streets.

With modern vision and restoration, the area has developed into an artisan's paradise with boutiques, restaurants and cafes. Visitors are enraptured by the unhurried pace and quaint setting, so reminiscent of small European villages.

This is a great way to relax, learn a bit of history and see another part of the world that is incredibly beautiful. And one tour is never enough. We'll be back, but for now, it's 'au revoir' Quebec!