A SEASON OF MEMORIES - THAT'S ITHACA

Here's how it all began. Back in the 1790s soldiers from the Revolutionary War began claiming land in the Finger Lakes from the state, eager to start a new life in the region.

By 1804 there was a community called Ithaca, later to become the seat of a new county (named after Daniel Tompkins, a former governor of the New York State, Vice-President of the United States and the man responsible for the Emancipation law that ended slavery in the state in 1827).

The lake became the ticket to Ithaca's subsequent emergence as a commercial center when a steamboat began plying its waters in 1821.Today it remains a vibrant community of entrepreneurs, many of whom are connected to the tourism industry.

ITHACA COMMONS

Every city has its 'downtown' and shopping is a favorite pastime with everyone, young or old, so it comes as no surprise that Ithaca Commons has become a major attraction in this city of almost 30,000 people.

This is New York State's pride and joy, billed as their "premier pedestrian mall" although there's more to the Commons than shopping. One of its striking features is the distinctive style of many of the buildings that house the shops and their merchandise.

We discovered a book lover's paradise down here - Ithaca Books, Autumn Leaves and Fleet Books, but Logs Emporium is a treasure trove - 8,000 square feet of art, prints, posters and puzzles, and a popular selection of local books, music, posters and gifts (great for souvenirs).

From T-shirts to locally designed fashions the stores are strolling distance apart. Check out Raghouse, T-Shirt Express, ZuZu's, Uncommon Threads and House of Shalimar.

Now You're Cooking is great for household fashions and for jewelry it's Schooleys Jewelers. At 3-D Light statues, posters, incense, candles, books and posters abound, while at Finger Lakes Galleria there's a selection of one-of-a-kind American art in a variety of media. If you enjoy knitting, sewing or quilting The Homespun Boutique has books, tools, fabric and yarns (natural fibers are their specialty).

Simeon's on the Commons is the most popular restaurant and is especially delightful in the summer when it becomes a sidewalk café.Try Home Dairy and Benchwarmers Sports Bar for casual dining.

Besides the great year-round marketplace, Ithaca Commons is the venue for the Art Walk, Annual Ithaca Festival, Summer Concert Series, the Apple Harvest Festival and the Holiday Stroll (Call 607- 277-8679 for information).

ITHACA FARMERS MARKET

This is no ordinary farmers market, folks. Get ready for a showcase of some of the finest locally grown and produced items and a great lineup of special events. Located on Ithaca's waterfront, it's just the venue to shop, eat and visit to your heart's content with the locals. Expect to see garden fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs, and enough inspiration to become a green thumb with all the plants and flowers on display.

Feast your eyes and open your pocketbooks- there's pottery, jewelry, furniture, glassware, woodcraft and clothing. I found a beautifully hand-painted dress just my size (and my color, purple). There are lots of homemade baked goods and we snacked on Indian delicacies cooked on the spot. Wine, cheese, meats and condiments are also popular with shoppers.

We were pleasantly surprised to discover Morris Dancing the weekend of our visit, and by the end of the performance I had been pinned with a button that declared, "I've been SMUDGED by a Not for Joe." The dancers hailed from various parts of the U.S. and Canada, and the Not for Joe team were from New London, Conn the dancers' faces are brightly painted and they delight in sharing their designs (a.k.a.smudging) with onlookers.

Morris, by the way, is an ancient English ritual dance form involving agile leaps, fluid movement and careful concentration, and is associated with the tintinnabulation of many bells, vociferous clashing of sticks and the occasional whoop of excitement. That was the explanation we were given after they saw how utterly fascinated we were at the performance that also featured sword dancers weaving their weapons in intricate patterns.

This year's calendar included some fun events such as Turkey Calling, Joke Day, Bee Day, Raptors at the Market (yes, the birds) and Rutabaga Curling Championships.

The market runs from April to December. Call 607-273-7109 or visit their web site www.ithacamarket.com

TAUGHANNOCK FALLS

Taughannock Falls is a serene beauty in the Summer and a contrast of colors in the Fall (the two seasons that we've been here to visit). We can't wait for Winter and Spring! The Falls are located in the Taughannock Falls State Park, which attracts hikers to its trails until the winter.

It's a captivating sight to watch the falls flowing down a 215-foot vertical drop into an emerald pool below. The surrounding 400-foot sandstone and shale rock walls enhance the natural wonder and the overlook on the north rim of the cavernous gorge presents visitors with a marvelous close-up view.

Park information states the overlook occurred about 14,000 years ago, but this was preceded by continental glaciers from the Ice Age descending south from Canada that excavated deep troughs in the valleys of the rivers. The meltdown produced huge floods that eventually formed the stone gorges that exist today at the 783-acreTaughannock Falls State Park.

In the summer walking trails offer the best opportunity to enjoy the scenic lookouts along the rim and to cool things off the limestone creek bed is the most 'gorge-eous' way to soothe those tired feet. The railroad trestle below the footbridge that leads to the South Rim dates back to the 1870s existence of a train station used by the Geneva Ithaca Railroad. It's just over a two-and-a-half mile hike around the gorge rim, but there's an easier Gorge Trail that's less exerting, but just as scenic. The recreational area at Taughannock Point (part of the original park when it was only 64 acres) is popular for camping, swimming, picnicking, fishing and boating along the shores of Lake Cayuga.

The annual Falls Concert Series (607-387-6739) features live music under the stars. This year the bands entertained the crowds with zydeco, folk/country, bluegrass, acoustic swing, 50s and 60s rock'n'roll, world beat and roots rock music.

Sledding and skating are favorite winter activities, while the Falls is a spectacular ice-clad beauty.

LAKE CAYUGA

Instead of "Come fly with me" the words "Come sail with me" are on my mind ever since we went sailing on the Alcyone on Lake Cayuga.

The 435-foot-deep lake is a sailing delight in every direction, especially for folks who enjoy relaxing aboard a beauty of a yacht. Brad Corbitt is a licensed captain through the U.S. Coast Guard and he is CPR certified.

A longstanding love affair with sailing fuels his enthusiasm, Corbitt confesses - enough to influence his return to this area where he grew up.

It's reasonably windy when Corbitt maneuvers his yacht from Johnson Boat Yard in Ithaca. Soon the Alcyone is heading out on the "Long Blue Streak" also known as Cayuga Lake, past colorful buoys and channel markers.

Corbitt's guests can actually take the "hands-on" approach to sailing - a special thrill for novice sailors. Most of us who take to the water are out for a scenic tour and to enjoy the good weather.

You can't see too much of Ithaca from the lake as most of the town remains hidden by the surrounding hillsides, but we did spot some of buildings at Cornell University as well as the new Cornell cooling plant.

It's great for checking our residential homes along the shoreline, unique in design and colors. Who knows you may find your 'dream home' right along the 38-mile-long Lake Cayuga, the longest of the five major Finger Lakes. And if you do decide to move here with your boat the marinas will welcome you and your craft.

The lake is like an underwater gallery. When the water is smooth you can see beautifully colored species of fish, sometimes swimming in shoals. These include lake brown and rainbow trout, small and large mouth bass, Northern pike, pickerel, perch, bluegill, crappia, rockbass and bullhead - truly an angler's paradise.

If you just close your eyes and open them again a new spectacle will always appear - canoeists, kayakkers, windsurfers - they are all out on the lake having a good time just like you and me.

For more information and reservations contact Alcyone Charters at 607-272-7963 or e-mail bcorb80630@aol.com or visit www.14850.com/web/alcyone.

WHERE TO STAY - LA TOURELLE

This European style country inn welcomes guests to its 35 charming guestrooms and ballroom, ideally located three miles south of Ithaca. The spacious Fireplace Suite pampers guests who seek this 70-acre retreat to enjoy the best of both worlds. Whatever the season there are lots of opportunities to enjoy the great outdoors - wildflower walks, hiking and cross-country skiing. Visiting Buttermilk Falls State Park next door is a back to nature treat with waterfalls, streams and stone walkways just waiting to be explored.

In-room service includes continental breakfast that's a basket packed with fresh slices of seasonal fruit, croissants, Danish pastries, preserves, tea, coffee and juice. On a warm day it's especially delightful to enjoy the first rays of sun on the patio with your breakfast.

La Tourelle is located at 1150 Danby Road, Route 96B, Ithaca, N.Y. 14850. For more information telephone 607-273-2734 or visit www.latourelleinn.com

WHERE TO EAT

Glenwood Pines is a great opportunity to dine with the local community in a 'homey' atmosphere that the Hohwald family continues to provide over the past two decades.

Steak and seafood headline the dinner menu with their traditional fresh fish fry, pasta, salads and chicken. Bring a hefty appetite to enjoy the large portions served here, including the desserts.

The restaurant is located at 1213 Taughannock Boulevard, Ithaca. Telephone 607-273-3709.

Rogue's Harbor Steak & Ale is another local restaurant that features great, but informal dinners which are billed as "house made with quality ingredients" - just don't forget that your appetite will have to match the sizeable meals.

There are house favorites that disappear off the menu if you arrive too near to closing time, especially on the weekends. Hand cut and prime rib steaks, fresh seafood and pastas are their specialties.

We would recommend the French onion soup and crab claw cocktail for beginners. Shrimp Tuscany - shrimp baked with green onion, snap peas, herb butter, provolone and Parmesan cheeses over angel hair pasta is tasty, but impossible to finish. So is the Scallops Remoulade - sea scallops baked with a zesty red wine and Dijon relish and served with spinach fettuccini. My choice of the Filet Mignon (handcut and charbroiled topped with a rich demi glace) with a baked potato and a bowl of snap peas is also a house specialty. All the entrees are served with a house salad and freshly baked bread.

Wild berry cobbler, chocolate mousse, apple crisp and chocolate peanut butter pie are temptation to the sweet-tooth lover in all of us.

Local wines and 10 draughts are served in the dining room or pub at Rogue's Harbor. The 1830's landmark is in Lansing, N.Y., six miles north of Ithaca at Rts. 34 and 34B. For reservations telephone 607-533-3535 or visit www.roguesharbor.com

For more information on the Finger Lakes region please visit www.visitithaca.com