BONHOMME SIZZLES AT CARNAVAL DE QUEBECStory and Photography by Pamela A. Campbell
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A WELCOME LIKE NO OTHER
Like fine wine, the Carnaval de Quebec (Quebec Winter Carnival) exudes a warmth that envelops your body and soul during the 17 days of revelry that rivals Rio and New Orleans. Before you know it you'll be saying, "Cheers to winter" along with the million visitors who will join in the fun. (The 2002 carnival runs for three weekends starting Febuary 1st to February 17th)
At the 'world's biggest winter carnival' the mood is carefree, the people are super friendly and dress is totally casual. The key to enjoying the events and activities is to dress in layers. Who cares if you look like a bundled up bunny? Everyone just wants to keep warm!
Saying bonjour (good day) or merci (thank you) or s'il vous plait (please) in your best French accent will net broad smiles and win you instant friends amongst the entertaining Quebecois.
Now that you've received the 'pep talk' on the carnival city let's join Bonhomme Carnaval and enjoy all the festivities in Quebec City, a fun city even in the middle of winter!
ON THE TRAIN
VIARailCanada (www.viarail.ca) begins our journey from Toronto's Union Station to Quebec City's Gare du Palais train station. It's best to travel First Class so you can
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recline comfortably for the all-day trip that goes via Montreal. Enjoy small town Canadian vistas as you watch the countryside slip by the curtained windows.
Our breakfast on board signals the premier service we'll enjoy for the entire train trip. ViaRail's bilingual attendants offer the most discerning service on tracks (that I've experienced). Eat, sleep, read, chat - the choice is yours. The lunch menu features an appetizer (Waldorf Salad with Prosciutto) and a choice of three entrees (Grilled Chicken Breast, Roast Seabass and Agnolotti, followed by dessert (Cheese Cake with Wild Berry Sauce). Once we leave Ontario I am always delighted to see the French signs that says we are in Quebec and from then on it's always 'bienvenue' (welcome).
QUEBEC HILTON We're guests at the Hilton Quebec (www.hilton.com) where every one of the 571 rooms and suites presents a panoramic view. It's easy to pretend you are staying on an estate (as in room with a view) overlooking the 400-year-old walled city, the Plains of Abraham or the St. Lawrence Seaway. We are steps away from Place Loto-Quebec (National Assembly) where Bonhomme's Ice Palace was built as a modern Timeline interpretation of the Nordic eras. The ice age plays to our imagination with howling winds accompanying our footsteps as we cross the area that leads to Queenzy, the 35-foot-wide igloo and resounding Inuit chants. Then it's on to an ancient 'village' replicated with ice-tipped trees leading to a magnificent tower echoing traditional Quebecois and carnival music. The close proximity of the Parliament Buildings makes it the historic site that deserves a visit and for those who want to shop between the snow outings the hotel is linked to a shopping complex. The Musee du Quebec located on the nearby Plains of Abraham, boasts Quebec's most extensive collection of art covering four centuries, international art collections and occasionally runs world-class exhibits (most recently Tissot: Victorian Life Modern Love).
CABANE A SUCRE L'EN-TAILLEUR (SUGAR SHACK)
The traditional dinner is wholesome and satisfying and it's very reminiscent of a family reunion. We sit together in large groups at long tables and pass the delicacies down the line. There's pea soup, tourtiere (meat pie), sausages, Maple ham, beans and oreilles de crisses (pork rind locally translated as pig's ears - they're nice and curly). Soon we are swept up in the lyrics of Quebecois songs belted out by two young musicians who are determined to make us leave with fond memories of our evening at the sugar shack. The wooden spoons come out and a few lively souls take up the challenge to try making music like the Quebecois. We are in the company of a high school group from Michigan who sing and dance to everyone's delight. The evening's finale was a really sweet treat - we got to make our own maple taffy by rolling heated maple syrup on a bed of ice with Popsicle sticks. Although I am not a sugar fanatic I will confess to over indulging (I had two HUGE dollops of maple syrup wound around my Popsicle sticks and I chewed every bit of taffy without a shred of guilt!) And since we're on the subject of cuisine, here's another classic dining room that we really enjoyed especially since we spent the day dogsledding. (Click here for PLAYING FAVORITES AT AVENTURE NORD-BEC in Out of This World section).
QUEBEC'S CUISINE
Restaurant La Caravelle On a cold January night it's heartening to receive a warm welcome at La Caravelle, a restaurant renowned for fine French and Italian cuisine. It feels so avant garde looking at a menu that offers Aubergine a La Parmgiana, Parfait de Foie a La Fine D'Alsace, Potage, Salade Mixte, Paupiette D'Agneau aux Fines Herbes, Cabillaud Sauce a La Provencale et Trio de Pates. Relax; it's a bilingual menu. I just have this hankering to practice my French especially when I'm in Quebec because all you have to do is read the words (even though my enunciation is somewhat out of whack) - the Quebecois are honored when you try to speak the language, they really are, honestly, so do give it a try.
Congratulations, Arturo, you and your team produce such culinary masterpieces! Going from one event to another in sub-zero temperatures is an ally to eating and who can resist good food? A great lunch stop is Restaurant Le Patrimoine at 593, Grande Allee Est (Tel: 418-529-5533). FUN!FUN!FUN! IT'S CARNAVAL TIME!
Once the battlefield where General James Wolfe and his British army defeated Marquis de Montcalm and his troops, a giant playground of fun awaits everyone at Place Desjardins on the historic Plains of Abraham. First you hear the chiseling sounds and then you notice the crowd gathered around a giant mound of snow - it's the international snow sculpting exhibition that every Carnival visitor must see, a bear, a gargoyle, whatever! Climb an ice mountain, try snow rafting, visit a sugar shack, it's yours to experience. But what is this snow-white winter wonderland without a horse-drawn sleigh ride? Climb aboard and snuggle up under a big fur blanket, and I promise if the snow is falling you will never want the ride to end, especially if your Prince Charming is sitting right next to you! Think Dr. Zhivago and maybe you'll hear, "Somewhere my love............." from Lara's Theme! AND MORE FUN........
AND EXCITEMENT........ It takes true grit to try to conquer the powerful St. Lawrence River by canoe, but every year teams from every part of the world challenge ice floes, dangerous currents and freezing temperatures to compete in the International Canoe Race. It couldn't have been much easier for Samuel de Champlain when he founded Quebec as a fur trading post back in 1608. Originally, "Kebec" in the Algonquin language, the name means "where the river narrows." UNE FOLLE NUIT A CHICAGO
FINALE Historically, Quebec City is popularly known within Canada and throughout the world as "The Cradle of French Civilization in America" and was designated as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO (one of only two North American cities to receive this honor). On a lighter side, "The World's Snow Capital" is waiting to welcome everyone to Quebec City in 2002, and believe me, folks, there's no embrace like a snow embrace! See you in Quebec! CARNIVAL TRIVIA
BONHOMME CARNAVAL is the goodwill ambassador for Quebec Carnaval visiting North and South America, Europe and Asia most of the year. Early in January Bonhomme receives the keys to the city from the mayor and he begins his reign over the Old Capital until the Carnival is over. THE ARROW SASH (ceinture flechee) was tied tightly around the waist for support or warmth. Today, it is worn by dedicated fans throughout the Carnival.
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An early morning departure starts with check-in at the Panorama Lounge where you can enjoy hot or cold beverages and the morning newspapers prior to boarding the train.
Tonight it's an authentic Quebecois dinner and entertainment, but first we are led on a brisk walk along a snowy white trail to listen to what life was like back in the days when hunting, trapping and living off the land was part of everyday life.
Eggplant a la Parmigiana and Liver Terrine Alsace style gets the nod from our table followed by soup and salad. Then comes a major challenge. Will it be one of the restaurant's seafood specialties or should it be Olive Lamb with Herbs? I select the lamb and my tablemates decide on the Cod Fillet a La Provencale and Pasta Trio so that we can sample the chef's talents tonight.
After a hearty lunch get ready to hit the streets for Le Grande Viree, which is as exciting as the Indy 500 without the squeal of tires. Instead it's dogsledders careening around the corners of the track revving up the speed of their sure-footed teammates with shouts of encouragement. "Allez! Allez!" they shout and soon we're all cheering them on with the same words as they go flying past rosy red cheeks and men, women and children, mostly in snowsuits. There is no vying for spots here. Spectators can move or stay put for as long as they like. It's an annual affair for couples, friends and family who come to Old Quebec to enjoy the festivities.
The glittering night parades of Quebec Carnival attract more than half a million spectators who brave the chilly air to watch colorful floats, marching bands and clowns on the snow-covered streets.
The costumes are unlike those in the carnival in Rio, but a costumed ball themed Al Capone was just as exciting - the memories of prohibition and underground gambling and drinking really played to the crowd. Our guys wore loud suits, hats and puffed on the legendary cigars, while the gals were resplendent a la Roaring Twenties! The Blues Brothers Band entertained us with great dance music, except when we wandered over to the food tables for the Italian fare that kept us going for hours.
THE FIRST QUEBEC CARNIVAL was a welcome distraction for the local population from the season's wintry weather in 1894, followed by occasional celebrations over the next 60 years. In 1955 a group of businessmen conceived the carnival idea to attract visitors to the area and fuel the local economy.