COFFEE PLANTATION LEGACY LIVES ON IN BRAZILStory and Photography by Pamela A. Campbell
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Vale do Paraiba, Brazil:The coffee barons probably never dreamed their plantations would see glory days again, but this time it's a work of art - preserving the rich, colorful history that transcended throughout the land, leaving a remarkable legacy for the people of Brazil and their visitors. Now all it takes is a bit of a drive to the Vale do Paraiba (Paraiba Valley) to find the 18 fazendas |
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| (coffee plantations) that have been developed as hotels, eager to entertain and enlighten guests about the days of the coffee bourgeoisie in 18th Century Brazil.
It was 1830 when Jose Luis Gomes, the future Barao de Mambucaba (Baron of Mambucaba), made his way to the valley to claim his land, compliments of the emperor of Brazil. He built a fabulous plantation and enjoyed an opulent life, empowered by his slaves. In 1888 when slavery was abolished, the Baron's descendants were forced to abandon the estate after all their power and wealth declined. Some 170 years later, the giant palm trees still gently sway in the wind, the horse stable still exists and it's a long walk up to the grand old house.
The three-storied home has retained many 'originals' from Nellie Pascoli's collection. Nellie's strong desire to preserve the plantation allows visitors to come face to face with history. Besides guest rooms in the main house (with beautiful views), the slaves' quarters (senzala) were converted into guest rooms, with many period furnishings. A chapel, complete with wooden pews and altar remain in excellent condition. Large windows allow the gentle breezes to waft indoors and permit an almost endless gaze of the surrounding estate.
History aside, guests can expect some of the finest hospitality and cuisine this region has to offer. We were treated to a fabulous luncheon that would be the envy of some of the finest restaurants in the country. This was a meal where the dishes rivaled each other for attention and I believe we all ate to our heart's content, sustained by the one thought - "this looks too good to miss" - genuinely home-cooked food, especially when it's accompanied by those wicked Caipirinhas!
I admire the courage and dedication that Evelyn Pascoli exhibits in sharing this valuable history of her homeland with her visitors. Take a walk, ride a bike or a horse, swim in the pool or pond, whatever you do, Evelyn ensures everyone will have a wonderful time! The nostalgic reminders are as poignant as they are memorable. They are yours to experience.
This coffee plantation was once home to the Baron of Santa Maria who built his mid-19th Century mansion in 1858, surrounded by all the trappings of his wealth. Today the estate has been converted into a hotel that used to be the living quarters of the 250 slaves who worked under the watchful eye of the Baron and his assistants as they harvested the coffee. The 1150-acre plantation facilitates a jeep tour through the original Atlantic Forest (on the property). Unfortunately we had to give this a miss due to time constraints, but the lush vegetation extends beyond the immediate grounds.
Guests can arrange day visits or stay overnight and meals are provided.
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Thanks to Evelyn Pascoli (who inherited Ponte Alta from her aunt Nellie) we can still witness the existence of the coffee plantation, restored as closely as possible to its original state. Committed to keeping history alive, Evelyn is one of the founders of PRESERVALE - Institute of Preservation and Development of the Paraiba Valley.
A small hospital for the slaves was built alongside the quarters to facilitate healthy births and ensure a strong and steady workforce. Visitors may never forget the haunting memories of the exhibits at the slave museum. Coffee beans, containers, implements, and hand and foot shackles are displayed in the small room. A copy of the framed proclamation of the abolition of slavery is hung on the wall for all to read and remember.
Prepare to relax by just walking the grounds, seeing the water wheels, relaxing in a hammock on the porch or enjoying the panoramic views from the many windows. You'll probably be as fascinated as I was with the mysterious Bombax, a pretty pink flower that covers the tree with no leaves (leaves will grow after the flowering season). There are lots of floral beauties in abundance on the estate (see photos).To relive history in a foreign land is a precious experience, especially when it is as recent as Brazil's.
This was the lineup that was utterly enticing - feijao pinto (black beans), arroz (rice), farofa (fried manioc flour), couve - green leaves, souffle de espinafre (spinach souffle), mousse de pepino - cucumber mousse, salada (salad), carne arrada (roast meat), galinha ensopada (chicken stew). Every morsel was as tasty as the display on the table presented to us. Who could resist seconds?
There's always room for dessert and this luscious trio was a savory finale to our visit - doce de abobora (pumpkin sweet), queijo de Minas (Minas cheese) and pudim de Maria mole (soft Maria pudding).
FAZENDA ARVOREDO
The senzala (slave quarters) house guests in 29 rooms which are finely furnished with antiques. The many outdoor activities promoted here are reminiscent of resort properties - rowboats, bikes and horses are available to guests. Hiking is also a popular pastime for visitors.