RIO, LOVELY RIO

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil: Nothing prepares you for Rio, but Rio itself.

This Brazilian city of seven million Cariocas (as Rio's residents are called) pulsates to its own beat every day of the year. Besides the samba, they adore soccer, but they also treasure the three "Bs" - beaches, beer and beauties in bikinis!

The lure of 83 kilometers of beaches is a regular pastime for Cariocas, but visitors find them irresistible too, especially if they are staying at a hotel on one of the two famous beaches, Copacabana or Ipanema. Other

Rated by Lonely Planet World Guide as Rio's "richest and most chic beach" Ipanema is the perfect location for visitors who want to discover what makes this city tick.

The exclusive, five-star Caesar Park Ipanema on Avenue Vieira Souto is in Rio's most elegant neighborhood, which I happily discover, borders the sea and the mountains.

My mornings start with a magnificent view of Ipanema and Leblon from the top floor of the hotel's Galani Restaurant, rivaled closely by the dazzling array of breakfast fare, especially the tropical fruits. Guavas, papayas, cashews (the same fruit that produces the nuts) goes great with a refreshing drink of coconut milk, sipped through a straw!

Cariocas will tell you their coffee is the best in the world if you drink it hot, sweet and very, very strong. It's called a cafezinha, served in small quantities like an expresso.

The hotel's world famous feijoada (bean stew) is served every Saturday in the Petronius Restaurant and if you must have it at home, Caesar Park loves to share their recipe, so here it is, the authentic Carioca version (at the end of this article).

From early morning Rio erupts into a sea of fitness buffs, lasting well into the evening hours. There is even a two-lane path marked for joggers, cyclists and roller-blade enthusiasts along the street, adjacent to the boardwalk in Ipanema.

The walkers stick to the black and white mosaic promenade, in various stages of dress or undress (people shed bits of clothing in uninhibited fashion once the heat gets to them, but sorry guys, I didn't see any topless women). The beach scenery provides the most 'eye candy' you can imagine and just for fun, we invite you to our photo gallery to see all the shots we can't possibly run with this article.

There are lots of buff, tanned bodies to admire during a game of beach volleyball (of Copacabana Beach origin) and now elevated to world championship and Olympic games status. Foot volley (a volleyball and soccer combination) is just as popular with the younger set as they try to out-maneuver each other on Rio's beaches (mostly guys, but the gals sometimes join in the fun).

Maybe it's all to do with the body beautiful and the recent explosion of Brazilian fashionistas on the runways (like homegrown supermodel Gisele Bundchen), but the Cariocas can't resist a camera. The muscle tones will stop and pose mid-kick just for a picture. I even had three teenage girls approach me to take their photographs. The tops disappeared in a flash when I asked them if they would like to pose sans T-shirts.

Thousands of surfers ride their favorite waves along the coast, ranking Rio as one of the largest surfing cities worldwide. Surfing fans can contact the Surfing Federation of the State of Rio de Janeiro (FESER) in Ipanema for information on the many local areas that harbor a surfer's paradise. (Rua Visconde de Piraja, 437, Room 407, Ipanema. Tel/Fax 287-2385).

It takes less than an hour strolling at a leisurely pace to enjoy the sights and sounds of the 'beach scene' - there are lots of food kiosks that sell snacks, drinks and the popular water coconuts that hang attractively from poles. The white tables and chairs covered with colorful umbrellas offer respite from the hustle and bustle and is an excellent meeting place for friends.

After witnessing all those energetic activities, the hotel's beach service seems invitingly relaxing. Just grab your colorful bag and beach towel and head for the beach across the street to enjoy the sunshine. Lifeguards are all set up to accommodate guests with sun loungers, sunshades and even fresh fruit.

Nature is the other half of this fascinating paradise - the famous Corcovado mountain peak with the magnificent Christ the Redeemer statue at its pinnacle, and Sugar Loaf at the Guanabara Bay entrance, are the city's most popular landmarks. And like a page from a designer sketchbook, we are privileged to find in the heart of Rio the Tijuca Forest, unheard of in the entire world. (Please see our Eco Thrills section for the article entitled, "Nature's Best Side of Rio."

Two blocks away is a hub of stores that that combines a shopping spree with the chance to rub shoulders with the locals as they shop. A supermarket visit is an aisle by aisle showcase of Brazilian products. I succumbed to temptation and bought a 700-gram tub of Cica Goiabada (guava preserve) which is flavorfully delicious and not too sweet.

Another great buy is cachaca, the spirit distilled from sugar cane to make the caipirinha, Brazil's national drink, and now a favorite of mine. Our threesome made sure we picked up enough of those babies to keep Rio in our minds for a long, long time. I know I can now face the winter with Ypioca by my side, with the biggest smile on my face!

One of the best versions we enjoyed was at Caesar Park's Dionisius Bar - use a short glass, cut a lime in eight slices and add sugar to your taste. Using a pestle, mash lime and sugar together, fill the glass with cachaca then add three cubes of crushed ice. Mix well and enjoy!

We became a twosome when our buddy decided to go in search of souvenirs at H. Stern & Company, Brazil's largest jewelry company. If you have the time, prepare to be dazzled by oodles of gemstones - amethysts, topaz, aquamarines, tourmalines and citrines. If you have the money, you can have any of the baubles that strike your fancy - in diamonds, gold and precious stones. The museum, store and factory are always ready to welcome tourists. (Rua Garcia D'Avila, 113 - Ipanema).

There are many fashionable boutiques here with American clothing stores tucked in between, but this is the best place for bikinis, if you and your figure are happy wearing them, Rio-style. They're not as daring as the famous Brazilian thong that was all the rage on the beaches, the fio dental (dental floss) bikini that still sells postcards. Now it's the asa delta (hang glider) bikini that covers your lower parts (front and derriere) with barely there Lycra shaped like a Y!

A steady 45-minute walk to Copacabana Beach is enjoyable in the early evening. There are lots of hotels and restaurants along the way, but just across the hotel strip a night market opens from 7 p.m. to midnight. Vendors sell costume jewelry, clothing, carvings, paintings and souvenirs. We saw a father and son trying out a bow and arrow set.

This is a city that is surprising and captivating, one that lives life to the fullest. Remember, Rio is waiting just for you!

FEIJOADA CAESAR PARK

4 lbs. & 4 oz. of black beans
2 lbs. & 2 oz. of dried beef
1 lb. & 1 oz. of salt-cured pork
1 lb. & 1 oz. bacon
1 lb. & 1oz. of smoked sausage

6 pieces of dried sausage
1 piece of smoked beef tongue
2 of each: pig's ear, tail and trotter

Place beans and salted meats in separate bowls and cover with water. Leave for 24 hrs, changing water every 6 hrs. Put all ingredients into a cooking pan and cover with water. Add ½ orange, 3 bay leaves, 1 chopped onion and pepper. Cook everything over low heat and gradually withdraw meats as they cook to prevent them from getting too soft. In a separate pan, heat 2 tbsp. of soybean oil and fry 6 cloves of garlic and 2 chopped onions. Pour it into the beans and mix well. Separate a small portion of beans and crush it in order to make the sauce a little thicker (using a wooden spoon).

To be served with white rice, fried manioc four, Kale "a mineira" (thinly stripped and fried in oil with garlic), oranges and hot pepper.

Tips

The orange will add a special flavor and make the dish more digestible.

Always cook over low to moderate heat.

If you need to add more water, always use boiling water.