SANTA TERESA - RIO'S FAIRYTALE NEIGHBORHOOD

"Who wants to visit Santa Teresa?" asks Rosario, our Carioca guide. It has a ring of intrigue about it, but a hungry bunch will say, "Yes" to anything at this point.

Santa Teresa, I would later learn from an excerpt attributed to author Rachel Jardim, is quite irresistible. (Quote, "Writers and artists came here seduced by the two main attractions of this neighborhood, its call to

As we wandered the curvaceous streets, footsteps echoing against the cobblestones, I have to remind myself I am in South America, not Europe. There is a certain tranquility that pervades the air around the residential homes, but the intricately designed facades are as eye-catching as a kid in a candy store. If a dog barks, he is competing with the click of the shutter on my camera.

A quick peek down an alleyway reveals some interesting sights. The doors, the windows, the shady gardens beyond the gates conjure up images of an era gone by, and yet they are occupied by families who, we are told, proudly say, "I am Santa Teresa."

The neighborhood was named after Igreja e Covento de Santa Teresa - Santa Teresa Church and Convent. And Saint Teresa of Avila, Mother Jacintha de Sao Jose and Sister Francisca were the key figures whose faith and spirit created the district.

The convent permits no visitors but you can attend the Sunday 8 a.m. mass at the church. The Order of the Barefoot Carmelite Nuns live very simple and humble lives in almost total isolation.

In June and December the resident artists open their galleries to display and sell their work. There are three museums here, two are former residences with significant art, furniture, books and photographs.

The Museu do Bonde (Streetcar Museum) documents and displays 300 items that recount the history of Rio's streetcars. Visitors will be intrigued by the collection of handrails, bells, original clocks, miniature streetcar replicas, clothing and a full-size streetcar replica that dates back to when they were drawn by donkeys.

It's very interesting to note that Santa Teresa still operates a tram system, and that Brazil had one of the world's first electric tramways and the world's largest fleet of open streetcars. The bright yellow streetcar will literally stop you in your tracks as they run to Paula Mattos and Dois Irmaos, crossing the Lapa Arches (the former aqueduct) to get to the top of the hill where many artists reside. If passengers remain standing, they ride free.

The neighborhood jaunt does wonders for the appetite and Bar do Arnado (Arnaudo's Bar) on Rua Almirante Alexandrino, 316B (Tel: 252-7246) was Rosario's choice for our lunch time stop.

The minute we step inside I notice the locals are enjoying their meals so the food must be good. The restaurant is not shy about declaring itself the "gastromic temple of the North East in the heartland of Rio de Janeiro" even if the menu offerings are overwhelming for the North American palate. I am thankful for the superfluous description that follows the Portuguese names on the menu.

I must skip the Sarapatel e Rue, even at a reasonable 6.25R. Why? Because it's "selected parts from a pig's intestines given meticulous preparation according to a popular North Eastern recipe."

I consider the Carne Seca e Abobara and Rice - dried, jerk beef baked in garlic and onion, transformed into a sumptuously moist stew garnished with oregano and served with rice and pumpkin cheered with onions and coriander. The Carne de Sol with Piraode Lute also sounds good - sundried meat moistened with a sumptuous cow's milk, flour, butter sauce.

Next up is the Carne de Sol e Macaxeira and for 10.75R this sounds like a really good meal. The description needs no explanation - rice, fried Brazilian beans and manioc flour - one of the few combinations offered with the highly popular sun dried beef steaks accompanied by fried onions, garlic, lady's fingers and coriander. The manioc flour is sprinkled with olives, parsley, spring onions and anointed in vibrant orange of pumpkin. This sounds the best and I decide this will be my Santa Teresa feast.

By this time Rosario suggests that if we order different dishes we could all sample the traditional flavors of this region. Even the homemade sweet meats (desserts) are worth trying because they are definitely different. Tropical fruits, dried and ground with cloves and cinnamon and bananas sweet milk (doce de leite).

Not only do I like the self-confidence, but the almost poetic menu translations are just what you need in a predominantly Portuguese speaking community. The portions are huge (which is great for groups) and the sun-dried meats are moist and flavorful.

The cooking style is a fusion of African, native Indian and European dishes. I am now totally convinced that Cariocas have a zest for life in everything they do, even when they eat.

Credit the owners, the chef, or whoever, but I just love their declaration that their food is "joyous, surprising, sensuous and strangely familiar" and I must agree one hundred per cent that yes, it's "inexplicably Brazilian."

Thank goodness we said "Yes" to Santa Teresa. Thank you, Rosario, it was a delightfully tasty visit. We must do it again!