TALLAHASSEE - FLORIDA'S STATE CAPITAL

I was in Tallahassee to attend Florida State University's "Seven Days of Seven Nights" - the annual performing arts festival. An invitation from Tallahassee extended my visit to include "2000 Tour of Tallahassee" celebrating Black History Month.

Tallahassee is the surprising part of the Sunshine State that can overwhelm you with its sheer beauty. Live oaks dripping with Spanish moss line the streets and canopy their parks. It felt like the city was your comfort zone and you were safely in your mom's bosom. Those rolling hills were a thrill to ride for this writer who lives in the Low country which is flat as a pancake. Tallahassee has its share of picturesque historic districts, a magical place combining tradition and innovation with a touch of subtle, old-fashioned charm.

The crowning jewel of Florida's "Capitol Hill," is the Old Capitol which has been restored to its 1902 splendor complete with the red-and-white striped awnings, a dome adorned with stained glass, antique furnishings and political memorabilia.

Towering to new heights, the New Capitol's 22nd floor observatory offers panoramic vistas of the Southern city, awash in a sea of flowering azaleas and dogwoods, towering pines, fragrant magnolias and hundreds of lakes, springs, swamps, rivers and sink holes.

Boasting more than 145 properties listed on the National Register of Historic Places, Tallahassee remains firmly linked with its history and heritage.

Our group began our 2000 Tour of Tallahassee with an elegant dining experience at Chez Pierre - a Tallahassee Tradition since 1976. (850-222-0936). Karen and Eric provide a special blend of French charm and Southern hospitality offering authentic French cuisine served in a casual, yet elegant atmosphere.

The restaurant is a beautifully restored 1920 home that charms you with its breezy terrace, gracious front porch and cozy bar. My Duck a l'Orange with Grand Marnier glaze was a treat as well as the Portabella Wellington with spinach and goat cheese in puff pastry with carrot-ginger sauce. The Southern peach bread puddin' with pecan-Bourbon sauce was the perfect selection to finish this meal as the delicious flavors lingered.

Our group stepped back in time as we saw Tallahassee's historic treasures, including antebellum homes, picturesque churches, and Spanish moss-laden oak trees. These mingle in harmony with centers of state politics, new office complexes and specialty shops.

As we strolled the historic district, we listened to the stories our guide told us of the buildings, of life in Territorial Times, of the emancipation of slaves and of Florida governors deciding new directions for the state. (A Walking Guide to Historic Downtown can be obtained at Tallahassee CVB by calling 800-628-2866).

For those who are cemetery enthusiasts, downtown Tallahassee has one that is a must-see. It is the oldest public cemetery in Tallahassee established in 1829. Tallahassee has put out a walking tour of Old City Cemetery.

There are over 549 restaurants in the area and I happened to eat at Andrew's Capital Bar and Grill three times during my visit. Once I sat on the porch overlooking the outside diners and the majestic Capitol, then I ate in their cellar and lastly Sunday Brunch was one of the best I ever attended. (850-222-3444)

After our delicious Sunday Brunch, we were treated to an African American Driving Tour that included a stop at Riley House Museum and Resource Center of African American History and Culture. 850-681-7881. Founder and Executive Director, Althemes Barnes, told us the house was built in 1890 and that it is the last visible evidence of the middle class African-American community that existed in downtown Tallahassee from the period of Reconstruction to the 1950's. The mission of the museum is to preserve the cultural and educational history through cultural programs. Because of this significance, the house was placed on the National Register of Historic places.

Minutes from downtown are the lush 52-acre natural habitat and 1880s farm of the Tallahassee Museum of History and Natural Sciences, home of the rare Florida panther and other furry "natives." It has a regional focus. We toured the 1840s plantation home of Princess Catherine Murat, the 1880s farmstead and the 1850s African American church and school that was the highlight of this museum. (850-575-8684)

Next day we visited the Union Bank Museum (built in 1841) and located at the southwest corner of Apalachee Parkway and Calhoun Street. It is one of the few remaining examples of Federal commercial architecture in Florida. The restored bank now exhibits historical memorabilia from the Black Archives Research Center and Museum.

The Black Archives Research Center and Museum at Florida A&M University houses the larger part of the collection. The museum contains artifacts, photographs, manuscripts, artworks, oral history tapes and rare maps that document the history and culture of African Americans. 850-599-3020

Black History is a vital part of the American Experience.