CYPRUS - A CULTURAL MOSAICFirst of Two Parts Story and Photos by Sandy Katz Travelin' Sandy Katz is a freelance writer based in Charleston, South Carolina. She has visited over 250 destinations and writes for many USA publications. Sandy who has a degree in psychology resides on the Ashley River with her husband.
For 9,000 years it's been said to visitors - "Kopiaste" - Welcome to Cyprus, but it's been heard before by Alexander the Great, Cleopatra, Saint Paul, King Richard the Lion Heart and Leonardo da Vinci. Very few places can match the rich mosaic of history, art and culture that makes Cyprus world famous. There you see spectacular Neolithic settlements, Greek temples and Roman theaters, restored Crusader castles, Venetian fortresses, early Christian monasteries, Stone Age ruins and Byzantine churches. Tourists marvel at the golden icons, colorful frescoes and archaic statuary that still exist today. UNESCO has declared nine of the Byzantine churches in Cyprus and the town of Pafos as World Heritage Sites. But modern cultural interests can be found at the museums of Cyprus, featuring works of late 20th Century artists while theaters showcase contemporary drama and elegant concerts under the stars. The aurora of the great Goddess of Cyprus is still present in Pafos and all over "The Sweet Land of Cyprus" in beauty and landscape, the mild climate and the charm of the people. Affectionately known as Aphrodite's Isle, Cyprus is a compact island, yet diverse. Small wonder Aphrodite (mythological goddess of beauty who was born in the foam of the warm seas of Cyprus and spawned a huge cult in pagan times) chose this island as her playground. Now modern tourists come to the "land fit for Gods" to enjoy the cool pine-clad mountains, and within an hour, frolic on the beaches of the Mediterranean. Cypriotic hospitality is everywhere you go and it makes visitors very comfortable. Greek Cypriots are extroverts, warm and charming. And it's easy to get around - they drive on the left hand side of the road. Car rentals require only a valid driver's license (not an international one) and the roads are in excellent condition with signs written in English. The modern roads and highways are easy to navigate, although there are secondary routes, which might appeal to the more adventurous. The national language is Greek, but English is widely spoken. This historic island is the third largest in the Mediterranean tucked away in the eastern most corner of the Mediterranean Sea. It stands at the crossroads of Europe, Asia and Africa, which accounts for its tumultuous history. Blessed with golden sun-kissed, sandy beaches enclosed by rugged cliffs, this island republic also has cool cedar forests, scented orange groves and gentle meadows blanketed in wildflowers. Sunshine is enjoyed an average of 340 days per year. Average winter temperatures is in the low 60's F and in summer it's in the high 80's F. The climate is classed as "arid Mediterranean" but there is more seasonal variety than this suggests. Hot dry summers tempered by cool sea breezes from June to September, and variable winters warmed by a gentle sun from November until February or March, are separated by a short spring and autumn. I found it absolutely delightful when I visited in mid-September. Although the island is still divided following the Turkish invasion in 1974, this does not have a major impact on visitors. Crime is considered to be virtually non-existent, which makes visits much more enjoyable. Since the island became independent in 1960, the government of Cyprus has promoted tourism steadily and it has become a vital part of their economy. This town became famous during the Crusades when Richard the Lion-Heart, leader of the Third Crusade, landed here to free his betrothed, Berengaria of Navarre, a noblewoman being held captive by the Byzantine sovereigns. Their wedding was held in the seaside town as a most extravagant affair, resulting in continued tradition of celebration and hospitality. Limassol is the Cypriot Riviera, the island's second largest city and main port as well as the center of the wine industry and popular holiday resort. Its natives are carefree people, fun-loving and outgoing, fitting hosts to the island's two top festivals. There is the pre-Lenten carnival in February with its dress balls, parades and festivities. Then in September there is the annual Limassol Wine Festival, where wine flows freely for everyone to enjoy, compliments of the local wineries. This is the place that takes the saying 'Eat , Drink and Be Merry' literally. Every night people in restaurants, cafes, taverns and nightclubs celebrate events momentous and frivolous, from soccer victories to a sudden romance to yet another stunning sunset at day's end. This is a shopper's dream where anything you fancy buying can be found. There are many stores on Main Street and there are lots of others in the quaint little alleys just like a giant mall. The shoe shops stock the latest styles at very reasonable prices. Leather is a good value, and handbags, suitcases and jackets are bargain-priced. And of course there are handicrafts to be found on every street corner. Cyprus Medieval Museum-Limassol Medieval Fort is located near the port. Built in the 14th Century on the site of an earlier Byzantine castle, reputedly the site of Richard the Lion-Heart's union with Berengaria and where he also crowned her Queen of England in 1191. On the way to Pafos, 14 km west of Limassol lies Kolossi Castle, a medieval fortress whose walls contain an imposing tower and surrounding living quarters, as well as an ancient sugar factory! This is a fine example of military architecture originally constructed in the 13th Century and subsequently rebuilt in its present form in the middle of the 15th Century. A bit further on, there are Greek and Roman sites waiting to be explored, including the Sanctuary of Apollo. This is where you can enter another world, where idols, temples, graves and goddesses make up the fabric of everyday life. Pafos is where Aphrodite the Greek Goddess of love and beauty is said to have risen from the waves that crash on its shores. Petra Tou Romiou or Aphrodite's Rock, is a massive chunk of stone that marks the spot. Her birthplace was a place of pilgrimage for the entire Hellenic world. Aphrodite's presence seems to have drawn other divinities and notable mortals as well. Excavations have unearthed the spectacular 3rd-5th Century Roman mosaics of the House of Dionysius. The mosaic floors of this nobleman's villa, beautifully preserved after 16 centuries under the soil is considered among the finest in the Eastern Mediterranean. They mainly depict scenes from Greek mythology. Pafos Medieval Fort was originally a Byzantine fort built to protect the charming fishing harbor. And it was the spectacular setting for the opera "Othello." Shakespeare would have been proud!
There are lots to see in these mountains. Nine of the Byzantine churches designated as UNESCO World Heritage sites are listed for the exquisite art depicted in their icons, frescoes and architecture. A number of interesting monasteries can be found scattered in the Troodos range. The largest and most famous is Kykko Monastery, with golden icons of the Virgin Mary, reputedly painted by Saint Luke. Other monasteries of note are Machairas and Trooditissa with its distinctive steeply sloped roof. Scenic walks will bring you close to a great variety of interesting birds and flora, waterfalls and special picnic sites. Definitely worth visiting are villages of immeasurable charm. Just wander around and observe the unhurried pace of rustic country life. Each village has its own crop, craft or product for which it is famous. For more information, contact the Cyprus Tourism Organization at 13 East 40th Street, New York, N.Y. 10016. Tel: (212) 683-5280. |
Nothing
contrasts more dramatically with Mediterranean beach life than the impressive
mountain range that stretches across the center of Cyprus and reaches
up to a high point on Mount Olympus. Just a relatively short drive from
Pafos, I considered it a treat to gaze at the panoramic vistas while
enjoying the cool, pine-scented air.