CYPRUS - A CULTURAL MOSAIC

Second of Two Parts

Story and Photos by Sandy Katz

Travelin' Sandy Katz is a freelance writer based in Charleston, South Carolina.

The 1000-year-old capital should be on every visitor's must-see list. It lies roughly in the center of the island, within easy reach of the other towns.

During the Venetian expansion eastward in the 1500s, Nicosia was fortified with imposing stone walls and massive gates. The famous Famagusta Gate still stands today, proudly protecting the still ancient town within from the modern city without.

Through the gate lies Laiki Geitonia, an old section that has been lovingly restored. Wind your way through narrow stone streets where crimson flowers cascade down from window pots and the aroma of traditional baking wafts through open doorways.

For history and art lovers the Cyprus Museum will be very interesting with its priceless treasures from the first stirrings of the Neolithic Age through the Roman period. At the Byzantine Museum is a dazzling collection of early Christian icons from the Mediterranean Golden Age. These icons were so mesmerizing that I made an extra effort to find out more about them.

Icons are sacred stylized images of Christ, the Virgin Mary and a panoply of saints, which have always had a central place in the Orthodox Church. In Cyprus, worship of the Madonna replaced obeisance to Aphrodite.

Richly decorated with gold leaf, the paintings are highly prized by collectors. Several monasteries were founded where miraculous icons (said to be painted by St. Luke) have reputedly been discovered. Usually icons reveal themselves by unearthly sounds and a preternatural glow. During the 8th and 9th Centuries the worship of icons was declared idolatrous and many were destroyed during the so-called iconoclasm controversy. In Cyprus, it is still customary to kiss icons, so old and valuable paintings are protected behind glass.

A visit to the Cyprus Handicraft Center workshops is a must. Here traditional arts are practiced today in much the same way they were long ago.

The geographical position of Cyprus in the Eastern Mediterranean basin makes the island a crossroad between East and West since the dawn of history. For this reason the island has experienced long periods of foreign conquests.

The Cypriots' need to retain their national and cultural identity results in its predominance of both their character and in their artistic expression. Even when handicrafts are developed into small-scale industries for the market, they bear the personal touch and express the folk culture of the craftsmen.

The secret of producing exquisite Cypriot handicrafts in precious stones, metal, wood or textiles, silk, wool and cotton have been handed down from generation to generation until present day existence.

Watching the potter, weaver, copper utensil maker, embroidery artist, woodcarver, leather worker and basket maker at work was rewarded by the chance to purchase the fruits of their labor. What a marvelous opportunity to obtain souvenirs genuinely made by the artisans.

It comes as no surprise that with a history so ancient, Cyprus is remarkably rich in culture. Hardly a week passes without a celebration of some sort. Cyprus has always wanted to put the island of Aphrodite firmly on the international map of cultural events. And thanks to the famous opera producer Rudolf Sauser from Switzerland, it may become a reality.

Following the success of the performances of the operas "Tosca" and "Aida" that were performed in the countries of their original setting, Sauser hoped "Othello" would carry the same acceptance and popularity.

"Othello" was an opera by Giuseppe Verdi performed in front of the famous Pafos Medieval Fort. This opera was staged for six nights where Shakespeare had imagined the scene - the island of Cyprus.

THE GOOD THINGS IN LIFE

There's no getting away from it, cuisine is one of the most important criteria for determining a good holiday. Gourmets will particularly appreciate what Cyprus has to offer. The Cyprus cuisine consists of dishes very rich in taste and unique in specialties.

There is a wide range of cuisine, with hotels and smart restaurants mostly serving international fare, while numerous specialty restaurants are spread throughout the island.

Fish tavernas are dotted all along the coastline, but the tradition Cypriot meal is the "meze" which really means a mixture. It consists of a rich collection of more than 20 different appetizers and main dishes all vying for space on your table. Included among the offerings are dips, moussaka, tavvas, koupepia (stuffed vine leaves), all accompanied by locally brewed Byprus beer, or one of the island's excellent wines. This "meze" experience needs to be taken with a loose-fitting waistband!

Eating out to catch some local flavor is always a treat on a holiday, and the following places are highly recommended.

In the Paphos area dining at the Araouzos Tavern in the village of Kathikas was wonderful. Here Maroulla wowed us with her "homecooked" meals. She brought out our dishes with the flare of a mama as we ate with the locals. There was psomi-her bread, which was made with anise and sesame seeds, tashi - Cypriot for tahini, skordalia - garlic dip made with potatoes, kouchia - butter beans with artichokes and kritharaki - orzo cooked with tomatoes.

This village is one of seven in the Laona Project where the villagers are working to give visitors a taste of their life and to sustain their identity.

Cyprus nightlife caters to all tastes. A number of tavernas serve up traditional dancing along with the "meze."

Pende Ohto (or Five Times Eight) was a wonderful place both for the food and atmosphere. And it was here that you really see how Cypriots really enjoy life - particularly when it comes to dancing on the tables.

For further information contact the Cyprus Tourism Organization, 13 East 40th St., New York, N.Y.10016, Tel: (212) 683-5280.