DISCOVERING COLUMBUS IN GEORGIA

Story and Photos by Pamela A. Campbell

The lure of the south has always appealed to me, yet I kept looking for a reason to visit Columbus, Ga. But now that I know how many exist, I can't wait to discover all the treasures of this historical, yet progressive city.

Gone are the days of a western frontier town, its claim to fame as home to Columbus Iron Works, supplier to the Confederacy of the cannons and ironclad ships that fueled the Civil War. Columbus has emerged as the second largest city in Georgia, irresistibly appealing with its small-town charm - the century old homes and wide, tree-lined avenues, picture-perfect with their Victorian gardens nestled along the banks of the Chattahoochee River.

A visit to Columbus should include a guided tour of Heritage Corner in the National Historic District, a 28-block radius encompassing the architecture of the city's bygone era. The tour includes five historical buildings, among them a sparsely furnished, but sturdy log cabin and the Pemberton House, now the Coca-Cola museum.

The Coca-Cola connection began with John Stith Pemberton, a pharmacist who was "doctor" to his customers, residents of then "boom town" Columbus. Little did the unassuming "Dr. Pemberton" dream that his "thirst" for experimentation would quench that of future generations with a world-famous soft drink.

The Pemberton home features ornately framed portraits of the famous inventor and his family, while the carefully preserved furnishings, glassware and dishes on display reflect their simple lifestyle. That aside, it's fascinating to hear the story of a small-town husband and father whose interest in "stirring up new concoctions" spawned the formula for what the world now knows as Coke.

Exit through the back door and just a short walk away is the apothecary, a small, one-room building, cramped with an array of chemicals and bottles. This is where John Pemberton indulged his "inventor" moments to produce medicines, photographic chemicals and even perfumes for his rivertown clientele. And it was here too that the pharmacist formulated Coca-Cola as a popular local drink, French wine d'coca, although he later went to live in Atlanta and subsequently sold the famous formula.

Columbus has pivoted its way into modern times with panaché for the arts, boasting world-class entertainment at the Springer Opera House, the 1871 landmark and designated official State Theatre of Georgia. Thanks to the recent $6 million renovation of the theatre, live stage performers will continue to entertain patrons of the arts in the same elegant surroundings (including authentic replicas of the wallpaper design) as it did over a century ago. The legendary Will Rogers and Lillie Langtry have graced its stages, and more recently so have Hal Holbrook, Marvin Hamlisch and Burt Reynolds.

I strongly recommend visiting the 86,000 square foot Columbus Museum which hosts year round traveling exhibits, a permanent collection of 19th and 20th Century masters and a hands-on discovery gallery for youngsters (and the young at heart). From quilts to vintage clothing (on display in the permanent collection), the museum is a cultural experience to be enjoyed. For history buffs, view the Chattahoochee Legacy, an award-winning film about the area's development.

The museum calls Alma W. Thomas: A Retrospective of the Paintings exhibition "an explosion of rhythmic color" in the Shorter and Leebern Galleries - I call this a showcase of talent that inspires an appreciation of colorful abstract art by this Columbus native of African American heritage. And I also discovered the talented work of Atlanta's Gail Foster in the "New Friends" section, an artist who says of her accomplishment, "When I paint or draw the figure, I want the fire and the passion and the light of the soul to come out in the energy of the movement." From my view, the artist's presentation is just that, lustrously vibrant and energetic. (Editor's note - unfortunately the display ended in November).

If time permits, try to visit The National Infantry Museum and The Woodruff Museum of Civil War Naval History, the only one of its kind in the United States. And, in Columbus there is no entry fee for these museums.

The Coca-Cola Space Science Center another first for Columbus, opened in June 1996, and enjoys the status of being the only learning center across the United States where simulated space missions are carried out daily at the Challenger Learning Center. Students enter the exciting world of space odyssey and using teamwork, problem solving and mathematical skills they experience a day in the (working) life of an astronaut. How I wish I were back in school again; learning is much more fun these days, especially in Columbus!

At the Center the modern Omnisphere Theater, the first one in the world featuring a Digistar II and Omniscan Laser system together, impressed me. The result? According to an information sheet I received. "Brilliant laser light streams from an Omniscan Laser System, flooding the dome with the colorful wash of an aurora or perhaps the tumultuous death throes of an exploding supernova, swirl in all the colors of the spectrum." Sitting through a presentation, I felt I was "travelling" through the stars in three dimensions - this is the place to explore the solar system!

A quick trek up the stairs to the Mead Observatory and I came eye to eye with such a powerful telescope it's no wonder a link-up with observatories worldwide is possible, and together with its CCD imaging technology, it becomes an amateur's gateway to the stars, while offering research data to professional astronomers.

As a finale befitting my tour itinerary of historic Columbus, Heritage Park at the corner of Broadway and 7th Street in the Historic District, was a true confirmation of the pride that exists among the city's 180,000 citizens. Through public and private funding visitors and locals can trace the city's emergence as "the largest historic district in the state of Georgia."

The park's main feature centers on a charted course of the Chattahoochee River with a miniature waterfall, its flowing water turning a turbine. A leisurely stroll through the park allows enough time to follow the history of the river from 1850 to 1900, recording how industries thrived and prospered using the waterway for transportation purposes.

Lifelike statues stand witness to the city's development and economic growth, costumed and posed by occupation. The erection of a brick kiln illustrates how bricks were made from clay deposits on the riverbanks. But it is stone image of Coca-Cola's creator, John Pemberton that readily attracts attention - the bench he sits on beckons company, and photographers happily indulge their subjects with a souvenir of the moment.

To me a visit to Columbus offered much more than a selection of places to see and things to do. It was my passport to a wealth of history, scenery and cultural activity. And they tell me there's even more to return for in the not too distant future.

Excitement is mounting as plans for the $60 million River Center gets underway and the 240,000 square foot performing arts complex is set to open in Uptown Columbus for the 2000-2001 season.

Columbus is also set to bring a new $8 million, 38,000 square foot Port Columbus Civil War Naval Center (formerly the Confederate Naval Museum) to the city on Memorial Day 2000. America's only museum dedicated exclusively to Civil War naval operations will wow tourists by allowing them to experience battle scenes with the help of special effects.

Imagine climbing aboard a Confederate ironclad ship, gripping handrails as the skyline starts tilting and huge bass speaks begin rattling the timbers. Hollywood illusionists (Academy Award winners for the movie The Abyss) will use their expertise to let ordinary folks like you and me experience the stomach churning effects of being rammed at sea while enduring the famous Battle of Mobile Bay.

If the thought of surviving a battle is too unnerving, but your interest in the Civil War remains, perhaps the reconstruction of the Confederate Naval Shipyard will warrant a visit. Or, the fact that they have the largest collection of Civil War naval uniforms, equipment, weapons and salvaged fighting ships in existence.

Whatever the reason, I'll be back!