HONG KONG CHINA'S LATEST BARGAIN

Story and Photos By Sandy Katz

Travelin' Sandy Katz is a freelance writer based in Charleston, South Carolina. She has visited over 250 destinations and writes for many USA publications. Sandy who has a degree in psychology resides on the Ashley River with her husband.

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The colony no longer exists and neither does the British Union Jack. But this is where East and West are still woven seamlessly together, a timeless blend of ancient traditions and modern excitement - Hong Kong, the City of Life.

The noon gun is still fired daily on Hong Kong Island's waterfront. The statue of Queen Victoria still stands in its majesty not far away. And over on Kowloon, people still take afternoon tea in the lobby of the elegant Peninsula Hotel.

Hong Kong ranks among the most beautiful cities in the world with its busy harbor of blue waters encircled by mountains and skyscrapers.

There is a new national emblem, the orchid-like white Bauhinai flower nestled against the familiar all red background of China's standard and inset with the People's Republic's five yellow stars.

But with the dawn of Mainland Chinese rule, most traditions in this legendary shopping Mecca and financial powerhouse of the East remain intact.

Hong Kong began its humble beginnings as a small south shore fishing village near Aberdeen that eventually was dubbed "fragrant harbor" (the Cantonese translation). The name seems appropriate because of the incense factories that once lined Hong Kong Island's shoreline.

This compact region of four major areas of settlement and 236 islands remains a kaleidoscope of scents, sights and sounds that continue to attract the world in huge numbers.

Just picture yourself standing in a hotel room in Kowloon, the peninsula extending south from the mainland, surrounded by a festival of lights across the water on Hong Kong island - an unforgettable view that lingers for a long time.

SHOPPING MEMORIES

Kowloon's main thoroughfare, Nathan Road, is as resplendent as an open-air museum. There are hundreds of banners hung over the street proclaiming their owners' business in Chinese characters.

Then there is the Bird Market where all sorts of items for pet birds are up for sale. Old men walk along carrying their caged4x-HK_cages_at_Bird_Market.jpg (28033 bytes) creatures while socializing with fellow bird owners. The birds come in all sizes and colors with ornate cages to match, and one stall sells live grasshoppers as a tasty morsel for the winged pets.

The Jade Market is a tented flea market type of arrangement on Kansu Street with rows of gem sellers. Professional buyers are here too, and they can easily distinguish the fake from the genuine stones.

Just remember bargaining is the byword. The seller's asking price can be as much as four times the value of the gem. If you're not a pro in the characteristics of true jade, it's best to keep haggling to modest prices and save major purchases for jewelry stores listed as members of the Hong Kong Tourist Authority. These can be found in literature available at tourist information center booths and at the airport.

Temple Street and other nearby thoroughfares are really open-air markets, where "street doctors" sell herbs, potions and other offerings said to cure almost any physical complaint you may have.

The financial problems beleaguering the currencies of this region have forced down the value of the Hong Kong dollar, making the city a bargain destination. A "75 per cent off sign" is not an uncommon sight at some shops. Make a point of picking up discount books that are available at the airport - added value for the visitor's dollar!

DINING OUT IN HONG KONG

Savoring the tasty cuisine in restaurants is Hong Kong's favorite pastime. This is where you'll find the highest number of restaurants per capita in the world - and there are six million people in Hong Kong!

Dim Sum is a great Cantonese dining experience here; the bite-size treats come in small servings leaving the appetite ready for all the delicacies one can digest. If you select Peking Duck, our guide says you must ask for the meat if not the waiter gets it. The delicacy? The crispy skin is relished as the tastiest part when it's wrapped in a won ton sheet.

I enjoyed dining at Kowloon's Shangri-La Hotel Shang Palace restaurant where they serve authentic Cantonese dishes and dim sum. This hotel is also ideal for those seeking upscale accommodation - here the rugs in the elevators are changed daily to reflect each day of the week!

SIGHTS OF INTEREST

The Hong Kong Museum of History here has life-size dioramas depicting periods from pre-history through early fishing villages, a 19th Century street, the Japanese occupation and the modern city.

Hong Kong Island, the other major center, is 30 square miles of towering buildings, bustling communities, the workplaces of most of the Chinese residents, banks, beaches, resorts and the world-famous 3,000-foot-high Victoria Peak.

The Peak Tram, opened in 1880, is touted as the world's steepest funicular railway. It zooms past the homes of the island's elite and wealthy to the summit in five minutes for the picture postcard view north past the towers to the harbor and, at night, the lights of Kowloon. The vista west takes in Lantau and other islands.

For a water level view, try a sampan ride at Aberdeen. Here, many seniors still reside aboard the charmingly grungy crafts, their upwardly mobile offspring having long vacated them for the nearby gleaming condominium towers. Dominating the watery skyline are the multi-storied floating restaurants whose lights make festive clusters against the dark sky.

On the southern tip of the island, the Stanley Market features just about anything you fancy, from designer jeans to rattan furniture and linens. It's where the locals shop; hence the prices are low.

THE NEW TERRITORIES

The land extending from Kowloon to the Chinese border is known as the New Territories because it was the last area claimed by the British as they extended their colony. Housing developments have erased much of the farmland, but there are still some small villages to explore.

I would recommend the six-hour Land Between Tour and a Heritage Tour organized by the Hong Kong Tourist Association.

A highlight of the Heritage Tour features a walled enclave dating from the 18th Century known as Sam Tung UK, which means "three beam dwelling." It refers to the three rows of original houses whose beams were called "tung." The central ancestral hall is decorated, whereas the houses reflect the lifestyle of the Hakka farmers who occupied them.

A few miles away is the Liu Man Shek Tong Ancestral Hall and Tai Fu Tai, a stately home built in 1865 for a high-ranking official. The ornate country mansion reveals an extravagantly designed interior, with three courtyards and various chambers partitioned by screens - truly is an impressive sight.

LANTAU ISLAND

Lantau Island is the largest outlying island in Hong Kong, mostly a lush rural island. It's twice the size of Hong Kong Island, sparsely populated and off the beaten track for most tourists. Upon arrival at Hong Kong's new airport on tiny adjoining Chek Lap Kok Island, the aerial view of Lantau and other nearby islands is pretty close-up.

4x-HK_Budda.jpg (27175 bytes) Touring Lantau is somewhat different; you'll find the long, sandy beach a secluded one, complete with lifeguards. A drive up the mountains to visit the Buddhist Temple brings visitors to the world's tallest outdoor bronze Buddha statue situated on top of the "Mok Tue Hill" at Ngong Ping. Try the vegetarian lunch at Po Lin Monastery - I found it so delicious I contemplated becoming a vegetarian!

Visiting the Tai O fishing village was a very Chinese cultural experience. We walked through the narrow dirt alleys of the village market and experienced the sights, smells and sounds of these hardworking village people. All the fish were either alive in small basins or already dried in packages.

Hong Kong has delighted generations of visitors with a glimpse of oriental mystique from the comforts of a modern city, and I'm happy to count myself in those numbers.

TRAVEL TIPS

The best times to visit are Fall and Spring. Avoid the Summer heat and tropical storms and chilly Winter.

The Hong Kong Tourist Association offers day tours of the New Territories (Tel: 2807-6543). A free Mature Traveler's Guide to Hong Kong containing special offers for the 60-plus visitor, maps and pamphlets are also available.

For more information, call toll free (800) 282-4582, or contact the Hong Kong Tourist Association offices in Los Angeles, New York or Toronto.

Cathay Pacific Airlines offers departures from U.S. and Canadian gateways. For information on their All Asia Pass and other specials, call (800) CATHAY7 or visit the web site at www.cathaypacific.com