OCHO RIOS - JAMAICA'S NORTH COAST BEAUTY

Story and Photos by Pamela A. Campbell

I wouldn't miss Ocho Rios in Jamaica for the entire world. After all, Christopher Columbus came close to landing nearby when he first spotted the island 500 years ago.

Like Columbus, thousands of visitors (myself included) relish the beauty that made him declare, "It is the fairest island my eyes ever beheld.... mountainous, and the land seems to touch the sky."

Today Ocho Rios has been transformed from a simple fishing village into a restful resort area and one of the Caribbean's most popular ports-of-call.

Ocho Rios in Spanish means "Eight Rivers" but local interpretation maintains a reference to Las Chorreras (the waterfalls), since these phenomenal beauties draw thousands of tourists to the area year round. Two main attractions are the famous Dunn's River Falls and the lesser-known Eden Falls at The Ruins restaurant.

If you prefer to skip the tourist venues, Ocho Rios is ideal for a relaxing vacation or just plain "time-out" from large hotels or busy resorts.

JAVA (Jamaican Association of Villas and Apartments) is a government approved organization that represents Jamaica's non-hotel sector - villas, apartments, cottages and condominiums. There are hundreds of properties that cater to traveler's specific needs, and made available through JAVA.

If you think villas only exist in Europe, think again.

Ocho Rios puts you a world away from the hassles of everyday life. I enjoyed the freedom of complete abandonment of responsibility once we entered the Prospect Plantation property - five choices, each villa catering to individual needs - Frankfort, Wag Water, Eight Rivers, Somewhere and Frangipani.

Located on a 980-acre estate, the five luxury sea front villas share the address with the 300-year-old Prospect Great House which sits atop a hill, a private pool with a splendid view of the colorful gardens and the sea.

All of the villas, except Frankfort, are surrounded by nearly two acres of lush vegetation and feature backyard pools and sun decks. Frankfort villa is a more secluded beachfront property. Just imagine a private sandy white beach that stretches out invitingly just outside your doorstep.

A villa stay is a classic introduction to a vacation home a la Caribbean style. The housekeeping staff comes with a cook, butler and maid, since your reservation costs only cover accommodation. You can make arrangements to go shopping at the local supermarket, and the cook will prepare meals as you desire.

My villa vacation was a chance opportunity to enjoy the true meaning of a "creole" holiday and it all began with the accommodating staff at Somewhere and Eight Rivers villas, our home base. Beverly Robinson was the housekeeper who kept life on track with her helpful answers and suggestions. Cooks Sonia Pink and Maureen Henry were the talented ladies who kept us well fed. And, of course, the unforgettable and affable Oneil Forbes, our butler, who was always there when we needed a helping hand.

The air-conditioned bedrooms are like a tropical breath of fresh air with matching floral drapes and coverings, while the lounge area is equipped with cable TV and stereo with CD player. The covered patio is as inviting as the outdoors - I just loved to sink into the comfort of those plump, colorful cushions adorning the rattan furniture for a quick snooze.

Poolside views were absolutely enticing, especially if you happened to see a cruise ship in the distance. Oneil was always obliging with a cup of tea or a cool drink, depending on the time of day, but always with a smile. I even did my yoga stretching there too, fanned by the cool tropical breeze.

A highlight of the trip was the wonderful opportunity for a cooking demonstration at our villa with Sonia and Maureen. We gathered in the kitchen, where every ingredient was on display, every pot and pan ready for use, and step-by-step instructions for every dish. And just like the hosts of a TV cooking show, voila, pre-prepared dishes instantly appeared and we were ready to dine!

One look at the delectable fare (all Jamaican cuisine) and diet restrictions went out the window and into the nearby Caribbean Sea. We feasted on creamy rich Red Bean Soup, delicious Stuffed Cho-Cho, intriguing Coconut Tilapia, tasty Garlic Potatoes, Fresh Garden Vegetables and the inimitable cassava Bammy. Dessert was a mouth-watering helping of Key Lime Pie that was tempting enough for seconds (see recipe below).

An early morning swim is great for the appetite, especially if you are going to eat a typical Jamaican breakfast. Start with succulent tree-ripened pineapple, papaya and watermelon, followed by Rundown, Ackee and Saltfish, Johnny Cakes, toast and jam and jelly. Freshly squeezed orange juice, tea and world famous Blue Mountain coffee are great refreshers to accompany the meal.

If you're not a guest at Frankfort villa and you really crave the beach scene, you can walk to "Reggae Beach" (15 minutes) for a swim. There's a nominal admission fee and local food and drinks are available at a bar. As a guest at the Prospect Plantation villas you are free to enjoy the estate's tennis court and mini-golf, just check with the housekeeper or butler.

If (like me) you feel a bit more adventurous, I'd recommend you reserve a horse for a tour of the 900-acre plantation in advance. Horseback riding on these trails are fun, especially if you're a novice (I was) and your mount is a frisky one like "Nicotine" who was not content to wait quietly while the grooms got the rest of the party ready for the tour. She kept wandering up and down looking for tidbits to chew on, while I tried to get the feel of hanging on to the reins as per instructions from "Lone Ranger" our guide.

At one stage we were almost off to the races when she decided to start the tour ahead of everyone else (with me hanging on for dear life) but fortunately she responded to "Lone Ranger's "commands and settled down. I was particularly amused not only by Nicotine's antics, but by the guide's way of reassuring me I would be fine. "Don't worry, M'Lady," he'd say, "Everything will be okay." And true to "Lone Ranger's" words, "everything was okay" and I made it back safely!

There are three trails across the 900-acre estate, each offering interesting insight into a large variety of crops that are harvested in Jamaica. The tour almost felt like the revelation of a landowner surveying his estate with pride. As a North American resident, accustomed to seeing fruits and vegetables as imports, it's wonderful to actually see the trees that produce the items which eventually end up on our supermarket shelves or fruit market stands.

The trees stand tall and lush, some with fruit, others hidden, like the root vegetable, cassava. Look for limes, lemons and Seville oranges that are planted in groves (I kept a lime and brought it home with me). Rows of pineapples grow in patches and during the tour "Lone Ranger" would stop and point out the trees that yield many of Jamaica's world-renowned exports. There they were - mahogany for lumber, pimento for spices, sugar cane for sugar and coconut for a variety of products (we even tasted chunks of coconut along the way).

But the horseback tour is not just about trees and flowers, there are lookout points that present some of the most exhilarating views that would stun even the most traveled visitor. Be sure to have your camera ready for a shot at the beautiful White River Gorge. And just when you think you've seen it all, the horses clamber further uphill to another breathtaking scene, Sir Harold's View.

It was at this point that Nicotine started to buck as if she was in the Calgary Stampede and another guide, Kevin Reid, reined her in. Too soon it was time to hit the trails for the return ride and I enjoyed it so much that I almost forgot to return my riding helmet (mandatory headgear).

Now if you feel a bit giddy from my experience and you'd rather sit in the comfort of a jitney for the plantation tour, it's also a great opportunity to discover the origin of some Jamaican exports.

If this doesn't sound like your ideal holiday plan, dream up something different, more extravagant. How about booking a villa that was once home to Noel Coward, or Ian Fleming or Sir Winston Churchill's cousin?

Jamaica lets you live a carefree lifestyle for as long as you want, so forget the rat race, join in the fun, feel the urge of Bob Marley's words, "Come to Jamaica and feel alright." Yeah, mon.!