JUST SAY YASS TO WINEStory
and Photo by First Canberra made me see red. Then white. Lots and lots of it, in wine bottles, some of the best vintage Australia has to offer. But this should come as no surprise, it's been well over a century in the making. The cool climate wineries around Australia's Capital Country, about three hours' drive from Sydney, are located in the Yass Valley. Back in the 1860's the industry flourished, then went into obscurity at the turn of the century, but in recent decades the area has regained its identity as home to some of the most superior winemakers in the district. The vineyards are cultivated at altitudes between 500 and 900 metres above sea level, a unique environment coupled with rich soils that produce a variety of flavorful wines including Riesling, Chardonnay, Cabernet, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Shiraz If you like specialty wines like Port, Sherry, Muscat, Mead and sparkling wines, be forewarned they are only issued in small releases. This was a self-guided tour that revealed a wine region worthy of world class recognition, elegant white wines and full flavored reds. I chose the Canberra area because it's still one of the best kept secrets among wine lovers. The wineries are small,
family-owned and operated, offering cellar door sales. They genuinely
welcome visitors Dookuna Estate's Barry Moran is hardly shy about being mentioned in James Halliday's 1998 Australia & New Zealand Wine Companion as "usually the best Chardonnay made in the district.". The 1995 Chardonnay's rich, smooth, creamy flavour bore out the nutty, oak character with a hint of lime juice, a Dookuna trademark, won the nod from my wine buddies. I opted for the 1997 Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, a combination of herbaceous Semillon fruit and milder Sauvignon Blance flavor that resulted in a long and lingering finish. On the way out, don't miss the picturesque vineyard and winery at Dookuna (the aboriginal word for "rising ground") Estate. Clonakilla, Canberra's first winery is tucked in a secluded country lane and prides itself in being a producer of premium quality wines, albeit in small quantities. That's not their only first, the Kirk family also publishes a newsletter that keeps members updated on vintage reports, competition results and upcoming events. Since only three whites and two reds are bottled, my choice was the Riesling, a fresh, crisp tasting wine with a delicate floral aroma with a hint of spice, apple and citrus fruit. Next door at Yass Valley Wines, you can enjoy a picnic on the grounds, they even have barbeque facilities. But what caught my eye was the sign saying, "Taste the Difference" as I quickly scanned the price list of wines neatly handwritten on the wall. Among them a '95 Rieselle (sweet Rhine Riesling), '95 Pyment Honeyed Wine and '97 Spicy Traminer. Viticulturist Anne Hillier offered samples accompanied by olives, cheese and crackers, as I savored the distinctive taste of the Gewurztraminer (pronounced gah-verts-truh-meen-er), "Gewurz" being the German translation of "spicy" - I really enjoyed this full bodied wine with its pungent lychee and grapefruit rind aroma, one that complements spicy Asian cuisine. And because I did taste the difference, I decided to bring a bottle home to continue enjoying the taste just a little bit longer. This cellar door release is bottled in amber bottles because the Australian Wine Research Institute has determined that ultra-violet light damages wine, and this, said Hillier, applies especially to white wine.
Since I wasn't the designated driver and my palate was still receptive, we made one final stop to meet Rob and Kay Howell at Jeir Creek Wines.Since 1984, the winemaker and his wife have produced some of the area's best wines from the 6 hectares under vine, all located within breathtaking views of nearby mountain ranges. My selection? The 1996 Botrytis Semillon Sauvignon Blanc. My impression? An outstanding dessert wine, luscious and rich, its citrus marmalade flavor shining through its golden color. I just wish I had brought a case home with me! NOTES: All the wineries visited are a short drive from Canberra in the Murumbateman area. For more information contact editor Pamela Campbell at editor@travel-travel-travel.com |
for
tastings and encourage "shop talk" with wine connoisseurs,
while offering suggestions to novice wine drinkers. At Helm's Wines,
winemaker Ken Helm affably greeted us on our first stop as he poured
samples of his palette pleasing, award-winning wines in a rustic 100-year-old
wooden school house. Helm now juggles winemaking and duties as mayor
of Yass, producing Riesling, Chardonnay, Reds, Port, Sherry and special
releases since 1973.
Continuing
on the wine trail, Murrumbateman Winery, like a large farmhouse, beckons
invitingly. Once inside, winemaker Duncan Leslie is ready to pour any
of their award-winning table wines from behind the bar. I let him talk
me into trying their specialty, Mead, made from honey, popular among
the locals as a warm winter drink when mixed with spices. Impressionable,
but a taste that one has to cultivate. The tasting room is surrounded
by all sorts of rural memorabilia and a variety of local craftsmanship.
The property houses a restaurant overlooking the winery and vineyards,
and during the summer meals are served on the verandah or spacious lawn
outdoors.